venom42 Posted April 21, 2004 Author Share #13 Posted April 21, 2004 I really appreciate all of your help guys. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-78123 Share on other sites More sharing options...
venom42 Posted June 15, 2004 Author Share #14 Posted June 15, 2004 I installed a factory overflow tank a couple months ago (thanks to sblake01!). However, it does not get used (i.e. the fluid never flows into it). Ever since I flushed the radiator, I have had coolant leaks. It started with the radiator (leaking around the top), but that was taken care of with some "Bar's Leaks" as per my friend's suggestion (he is a Nissan Master tech). However, I still have coolant that accumulates on the bracket (holds the front susp. in place) just below where the upper rad. hose connects to the engine. None of the hoses *SEEM* to be leaking (I replaced them all but the braided one). I have no clue where this coolant is coming from. I put in a 160 degree thermostat, as it seems to slow the coolant use. Anyone common leaks in that area? I can try and take a pic if it would help (rain has prevented any outdoor activity lately). Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85139 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted June 15, 2004 Share #15 Posted June 15, 2004 What kind of a "Master Tech" recommends Bar's Leaks as a permanent fix? Have your radiator pressure tested and fix it's problems permanently with solder and metal. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85142 Share on other sites More sharing options...
venom42 Posted June 15, 2004 Author Share #16 Posted June 15, 2004 It took care of the leak from the radiator itself. The current leak is from somewhere in the area where the lower hose and heater hoses (I know I said upper hose earlier) connects to the engine. He made that recommendation based on the fact that I cannot afford to take it anywhere to have work done right now (2 mos. looking for a job, after being screwed by my partner trying to start my own business). Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85146 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted June 15, 2004 Share #17 Posted June 15, 2004 Bar's Leaks will get you by, temporarily.I understand your situation, now. I'm unemployed at this time as well. Money gets REAL tight.Have you pulled the hoses off the inlet pipe? maybe the metal inlet has a hole rusted through it. Or the end of one of those hoses could have a split or something.Remember the job market when it comes time to vote in Nov. :devious: Hope things get better for you. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85147 Share on other sites More sharing options...
venom42 Posted June 15, 2004 Author Share #18 Posted June 15, 2004 I actually replaced all of the hoses, except the braided one that is only like 5 or 6 inches long. The metal pipes all looked OK, unless I missed something on the bottom side. The weird thing is that I can drive it, check it while still hot, and the whole area feels dry. Then I look later, and there is a puddle on the bracket! Grrrrr. Thanks for the luck, seems that I need it. Hopefully I will have a job this week. I have 3 final interviews set up (one earlier today, one tomorrow, and one Wed.). Luck to you as well. Things always work out one way or another. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85150 Share on other sites More sharing options...
carrman Posted June 16, 2004 Share #19 Posted June 16, 2004 Originally posted by 2ManyZs If it's pushing out coolant, it could be a bad cap, or it could be that it is running a bit too hot also. Here's something else to think about. My '75 280 with L28ET had been barfing a little coolant now and then out the overflow. Usually about a gallon every other month. Tried changing radiator caps, but that didn't help. Figured it was just the nature of the beast since it didn't have a surge tank. Well, last month my Z club was having a work day at a club members auto repair shop, so I decided it was time to do those pesky valve seals that had been leaking. I used compressed air to hold the valves up on the first two cylinders and all went well. When I put air to #3 after about a minute, there arose a horrid gurgling sound from my engine, and all of a sudden it just started heaving coolnt out the overflow........ Guess what? Head gasket was blown. Up to this point the car had not been overheated since I've owned it, and there was never any tail pipe steam, or mixing of engine fluids, but still the same it was blown. Tore it down and found it blown between #3 and #4 cylinders. Just something to think about.Dave Carr Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85231 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted June 16, 2004 Share #20 Posted June 16, 2004 Good Point, Dave. A Pressure test is always a good idea. What you did was (in essance) a reverse pressure test of the cooling system via pressurizing the cylinders. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85232 Share on other sites More sharing options...
venom42 Posted June 16, 2004 Author Share #21 Posted June 16, 2004 Would a compression test point this direction also? In any case, I do not believe this is the issue, as my leak is outside the block (it accumulates on a bracket under the engine compartment). Hopefully we will not have rain, and I can snap a pic tomorrow. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85262 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted June 16, 2004 Share #22 Posted June 16, 2004 No, generally a compression test will not tell you anything in this regard. IF you had a major head gasket leak and did a compression test with the radiator cap off, you might see bubbles in the water at the top of the radiator, but this is really the wrong test to have performed. More complicated than is necessary, and not as thorough as the test described below.What you'd want to do is find a radiator or general auto repair shop that has a Cooling system pressure tester. What they do is manually pressurize the cooling system with a hand pump while the car sits there, engine off. They can leave pressure in the system for as long as they wish and observe any puddles, geysers, etc that may ocurr over a period of time. It's a very simple test and should not be expensive at all. This should find any leak anywhere in the cooling system.FWIW, head gaskets do not always fail from a water jacket to an oil galley or to a cylinder (internally). They can and do often fail from a water jacket (or oil galley) to the atmoshere (i.e. outside the engine) Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85266 Share on other sites More sharing options...
venom42 Posted June 21, 2004 Author Share #23 Posted June 21, 2004 Ok. Finally snapped a pic. Of course, the one time I go to take it, it had not been leaking. So, the top arrow is the one hose I did not replace (braided), and the bottom arrow is the bracket where coolant accumulates. It usually is puddled around the bolt closer to the front of the car, on that bracket. Sorry for the pic being so crappy. My camera has no screen, so I do not know how good/bad the pics are until I pull them onto the computer. I can post a bigger version if it is needed for reference to where this is in the engine bay (I trimmed the pic for smaller file size). Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11367-coolant-overflow/?page=2#findComment-85820 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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