And now comes the fun.....

[RedStage]

Ok, finally started to mess with the 280.....

So far I have changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, noticed a nice improvement all around with the oil change. Defiantely over due. Real bad blow by. Smelt more gas than oil.....

Not a good sign.

Today I got in my rebuilt air flow meter. Swapped out the old one. Car fired right up. Let it idle for a bit so the computer could adjust.

Took her out on the road, first gear responsiveness much improved since the old air flow was gagging at low RPMs....but here's the problem....

Car basically refuses to go faster than 60mph, or over 3000-3500 rpms.

I also notice a "puff" of blueish smoke in between shifts. Power is pretty good to 3000 rpms, then that's it. Occasionally the car will jerk in 2nd or 3rd gear at or around the 3000 rpm mark.

Not looking for a difinative "this is what's wrong" just a good idea what to look at next.

I am thinking....Fuel pump, injectors, or ECU....???

Next pay day I am going to take it out for a diagnostic $80, I figure it's a good idea.

oh, also need anyone's estimate on how much engine rebuilds "should" run. Wanna start packing the pennies away for the more likely than not "inevitability" that this engine may have more issues than I know of.

Been quoted $3000 round here.

Anyone wanna help out a newbie?

Thanks.

[Gav240z]

Since all i have worked on in terms of Z's is non FI cars here is what could be the problem.

The first thing I would think is fuel starvation jerking like you describe especially above certain RPM's would mean a fuel issue. The fuel pump is one i think you didn't take into consideration so maybe just check it's putting out enough PSI i think for FI it's about 30psi could be wrong i know carbed is only around 3-5psi.

You might not wanna overlook distributor problems, I know the shaft can sometimes suffer wear and cause problems above certain rpms, i think it's slipping as a result of the worn shaft.

It will be electronic so just check the rotor button and the cap are ok.

How about spark plugs are they black or grey? This will let you know a few things.

I wouldn't go blaming the ECU just yet.

You've done the other minor maintenance issues and sounds like your fairly confident i think you should be able to find the problem relatively easy.

Anyone else wanna chime in here?:cheeky:

[Gav240z]

Sorry i may have read bits of your post incorrectly in my previous statement about fuel pump.

With a rebuild it depends on if you wanna do any extra while it's apart.

[kmack]

Originally posted by RedStage oh, also need anyone's estimate on how much engine rebuilds "should" run.

Don't what rates are in California as I'm in Texas, but $3k sounds a bit high to me.

If you only have to replace seals, gaskets, and rings (assuming pistons, and lower bearings are still ok, ie: mileage isn't over 250k), then parts should only run in the $300-350 range. Now that does not include new valve guides, valve seats or any head work.

I guess a lot depends on what condition your engine is in internally. Any signs the head might be warped?