Just picked up 73 240z. Should I rebuild the L24 or swap to something else???

[VQ35DETT]

I'm not going Turbo because here in Australia it's not as economical as it is over there. I'm also sticking the an N/A motor because it's not as troublesome and less things can go wrong. So that only really applies to those who are reading in the US or Canada my motor isn't done yet but when it is I'll be sure to let others know ~what power she makes and how much it cost.

I can understand that. Well definitely keep us posted on your buildup!

[VQ35DETT]

I'm building a L28 to put in my 73. This is what I've got.

Block - F54

Pistons - Flattop

Head - N42 shaved .040". 3 angle valve job, match ported to the intake.

Headers - 6-1 with 2.5" all the way back to a flowmaster.

Carbs - Dual SU's with modified needles

Ignition - stock electronic from a 81ZX. Maybe upgrading to a MSD 6a?

Cam - undecided.

I haven't figured out my combustion chamber cc's yet to get an accurate compression ratio.

Can some of you guys post what you have?

Sounds like a nice N/A buildup! keep us posted and give us your impressions when its done!

[VQ35DETT]

Can other members post more of their buildups, swaps, etc., please???

[zeiss150]

That's the beauty of the turbo swap there is no mod's needed the turbo block is vertually the same block at the L-24 you have in your car now. The turbo motor just drops right in like it was ment to be there. You will use the same engine mounts for the turbo as you did for the L-24. The most important mod to do with the trubo swap is a better radiator, if you drop in a 4 row you will be able to keep that big HP motor cool as a cucumber.

Matt-

[zeiss150]

You asked for it so here it is...

L-28 (F-54 block from 1981 280ZX)

the block has 20 thousands over bore

new rings and pisons 20 thou over

rotating mass balanced (crank, pistons, rings, rods, flywheel, pully, clutch pressure plate)

new bearings (main and rod)

N-42 head with 3 angle valve job

Schnider cam with 460 lift and 273 Duration

Schnider performance springs to prevent "valve float"

New nissan rocker arms

HKS 2mm Steal Head gasket (for lower compression 9.2 instead of 10.1)

E-88 intake manifold

SU Carbs with SM needles

MSA header 6-2-1

2.5 inch exause pipes back to Flowmaster muffler

81 280ZX electronic distributor and coil

1980 280ZX 5 speed trans

New 3 row radiator

K&N air filter for breathing

Well I think that's everything but I might be leaving something out. With this build up I get some pretty bad arse torque, it pulls hard from 2000 -6000 RPM. I would guess that I have somewhere from 150-160 rear wheel Horse power. that may not sound like much but the stock L-28 gets about 109 RWHP. I'm getting those numbers from the break horse power rate of 145 minus 25% for drive train loss (if im wrong on that I'm sure someone will correct me). This build up is very streetable. My next engine will be a turbo for sure not to mention a bitch'n 3.90 rear end. I hope this helps you decide (go with the turbo).

Rock on Z (and Zed) people.

Matt-

P.S. I always feel bad about talking about the L28 turbo because of you aussi fellas but then I remember that you have RB engines and we dont

[Gav240z]

Yeah nah don't feel bad, I've been wanting to go the turbo route for some time and have scoured the internet for someone selling one cheap enough for me to import. However they are 20+ year old engines that most likely need a rebuild so it gets really expensive really quickly. Then an RB motor looks like the ticket I could get an RB26 for about $5000 here. However the plan has always been to keep it an L28 I just like the feel of the car how it is and wanna go the classic route.

I've also seen how my mates non-turbo L28 goes with the mods he's done and I was suprised to say the least as to how quick it was. I'll give you a run down on what the motor will consist of but I can't give away all his secrets as that's how he makes money.

Engine head : P90 with fairly aggressive port work.

Carbs: Dual SU's, I'll be using early balance tube. Don't worry i never feel bad that we got all the good non emission stuff in Australia and not to mention the good early bumpers till 77. I guess it's all a trade off.

N42 intake manifold which will be ported out same with the SU's they will get their throats bored out.

Needles will be set up for a 3.0 - 3.1L but what some people don't realise is a lean mixture will give you power.

I'm installing bigger valves than the already large P90 ones they will recieve the 3angle job etc.

The camshaft is 76 degree's but I do not know the exact specs but my friend said his is a good mix that will give you lots of revs. This is where you make the power.

The distributor is a special type that is hard to come by I do not know where and what car it comes off but am told they work the best. It's been recurved already to rev up to 9000rpm if I want it to. All mechanical advance.

The bottom end is where I'm gonna get stuck for a bit.

It's an F54 block, I will be using and LD28 crank but I am having trouble locating one in Australia I might have to pay $1000+ for this part ouch

The connecting rods are either gonna be L24, L20B , L13 or L14 depending on what's available.

Pistons stock Nissan flat tops.

It should yield 11:1 comp ratio.

All this and my goal is for 280HP then when i go with tripples maybe 330HP.

[zeiss150]

Hey Gavin Good tips on the engine build up. Do us Yanks a favor and try to find out what engine that distributor is from and what kind of mods are nessary to make it work. Now about those pretty balance tubes, we have them too, we just have to make them ourselfs . That L-28D crank is hard to find here in the states too, but motor sports sells a 3.1 kit with the crank rods pisons and rings for $1200 U.S. they could ship it to you for a few hundred bucks. Here is the link if your interested. http://www.zcarparts.com/body.htm I'll just leave you with this little bit of info. A working L-28 turbo engine from my local junk yard is $450 U.S.

Rock on Zed People (i'll never get that Zed thing...It's a ZZZZZZZ )

Matt-

[VQ35DETT]

That's the beauty of the turbo swap there is no mod's needed the turbo block is vertually the same block at the L-24 you have in your car now. The turbo motor just drops right in like it was ment to be there. You will use the same engine mounts for the turbo as you did for the L-24. The most important mod to do with the trubo swap is a better radiator, if you drop in a 4 row you will be able to keep that big HP motor cool as a cucumber.

Matt-

Matt - So the block is the same size??? Sounds like an easy swap. What harness and computer should I be using?

[VQ35DETT]

Yeah nah don't feel bad, I've been wanting to go the turbo route for some time and have scoured the internet for someone selling one cheap enough for me to import. However they are 20+ year old engines that most likely need a rebuild so it gets really expensive really quickly. Then an RB motor looks like the ticket I could get an RB26 for about $5000 here. However the plan has always been to keep it an L28 I just like the feel of the car how it is and wanna go the classic route.

I've also seen how my mates non-turbo L28 goes with the mods he's done and I was suprised to say the least as to how quick it was. I'll give you a run down on what the motor will consist of but I can't give away all his secrets as that's how he makes money.

Engine head : P90 with fairly aggressive port work.

Carbs: Dual SU's, I'll be using early balance tube. Don't worry i never feel bad that we got all the good non emission stuff in Australia and not to mention the good early bumpers till 77. I guess it's all a trade off.

N42 intake manifold which will be ported out same with the SU's they will get their throats bored out.

Needles will be set up for a 3.0 - 3.1L but what some people don't realise is a lean mixture will give you power.

I'm installing bigger valves than the already large P90 ones they will recieve the 3angle job etc.

The camshaft is 76 degree's but I do not know the exact specs but my friend said his is a good mix that will give you lots of revs. This is where you make the power.

The distributor is a special type that is hard to come by I do not know where and what car it comes off but am told they work the best. It's been recurved already to rev up to 9000rpm if I want it to. All mechanical advance.

The bottom end is where I'm gonna get stuck for a bit.

It's an F54 block, I will be using and LD28 crank but I am having trouble locating one in Australia I might have to pay $1000+ for this part ouch

The connecting rods are either gonna be L24, L20B , L13 or L14 depending on what's available.

Pistons stock Nissan flat tops.

It should yield 11:1 comp ratio.

All this and my goal is for 280HP then when i go with tripples maybe 330HP.

Sounds like a crazy N/A buildup! And oh, I like the looks of the triple carbs! Are they easy to work with?

[zeiss150]

The wire harnes Im not sure about but I think you can keep the same one. You just tie into the existing harnes with the fule injection and computer. all you have to do is pull the stuff from the car you get the engine out of. Yes the l-24 is exact same block as the L28 block ... because the block has just been bored and stroked. there is some slight internal differances between the blocks but the block is the same size. That's one of the reasons that its such a great swap. Tripple webbers are kinda expensive about 700 bucks I think and there kinda tricky to tune. If I could do it again I would build a turbo... come to think of it ... I can do it again :devious:

Good luck man, let us know what you go with.

Rock on Z people,

Matt-

[VQ35DETT]

The wire harnes Im not sure about but I think you can keep the same one. You just tie into the existing harnes with the fule injection and computer. all you have to do is pull the stuff from the car you get the engine out of. Yes the l-24 is exact same block as the L28 block ... because the block has just been bored and stroked. there is some slight internal differances between the blocks but the block is the same size. That's one of the reasons that its such a great swap. Tripple webbers are kinda expensive about 700 bucks I think and there kinda tricky to tune. If I could do it again I would build a turbo... come to think of it ... I can do it again :devious:

Good luck man, let us know what you go with.

Rock on Z people,

Matt-

Kool. Thanks for all your help, advice and info. We'll see what I end up doing. If and when it sees through, I will keep you all posted.

Anymore???

[VQ35DETT]

Can other members post more of their buildups, swaps, etc., please???