Bambikiller240 Posted January 6, 2005 Share #13 Posted January 6, 2005 There is plenty of "too thin" metal surrounding those holes. Too much for my car to have, and IMO too much for a "restoration". The floor pans tie the transmission tunnel to the rocker panels and give that part of the chassis a good portion of it's strength, and rigidity. The early cars (like ours) were pretty light-weight and not as strong as the later 240/260Z's.BTW, POR is good, and when used with their Power Mesh fabric (really just fibreglass mat) it is good for repairing PIN holes in floorpans, and it will protect "structurally sound metal from further rust, but I don't consider it to be appropriate for repairs of the magnitude needed on the passenger side photo's you posted.Just my opinion. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-107603 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted January 6, 2005 Author Share #14 Posted January 6, 2005 Carl, thank you for the info. I am going to order both floor pans and frame rails from zedd findings. I do not want to look back on this car and have thoughts of "I should have done......."thanks Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-107606 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted January 6, 2005 Share #15 Posted January 6, 2005 Not sure it's necessary to replace the Driverside pan (judging from looking at the pictures, anyway), but then again if you're going for a restoration, and intend to keep and drive the car for a long time......structural repairs are probably one of the best places to invest your money, time, and effort. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-107607 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted January 6, 2005 Author Share #16 Posted January 6, 2005 It would just seem wierd to me replace half of the car and get it all strong while the other half is not. I am sure it is not necessary, it just seems like the "right" thing to do. Again, no regrets!I have talking with beandip about the floor pan replacement on his car. He says that his welder could not get them in with his MIG welder and that he had to go TIG. Does anyone else have experience putting these in with MIG? They seem plenty thick enough to not cause any problems. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-107608 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted January 6, 2005 Share #17 Posted January 6, 2005 It would just seem wierd to me replace half of the car and get it all strong while the other half is not. I am sure it is not necessary, it just seems like the "right" thing to do. Again, no regrets!.....That makes sense to me. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-107618 Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob m Posted January 21, 2005 Share #18 Posted January 21, 2005 The floors in my Z are between your drivers and passenger floors. In discussing replacing them with my body shop, they suggested using "panel adhesive" instead of welding to the 18 gauge metal. Their arguement is that the heat weakens the metal and spot welding every few inches is not as good as a solid seam of adhesive. I agree with Carl that the floor system is an intregal part of the strength of the body and it is foolish to short cut these repairs. The question is, what is the best method? If the floors are rusted, what condition are the rails in?Bob M Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-109599 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted January 21, 2005 Author Share #19 Posted January 21, 2005 bob, i have decided that i am going to replace the floors entirely this summer once the weather shapes up..... i am not going to cut corners on something this important... thanks Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-109662 Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricB Posted January 21, 2005 Share #20 Posted January 21, 2005 Hey guys do all of you weld at home???That's one thing I don't know how to do & I've long wondered where I could take my Z to have at the very least the passenger floor replaced (what's with the passenger side behind the seat anyways it seems that more often than not that's where Zs have a problem)... Anyone here in LA who didn't do it themselves recommend a place?-e Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-109670 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncz Posted January 21, 2005 Share #21 Posted January 21, 2005 Hey guys sounds like we are all in the same boat. I get too many good tips from all of the replies. Making my life simpler! One question, Zues how did you get that f#$% tar paper off the floor without tearing everything up worse? You got it very clean. I was thinking about putting some stripper on it to "soften" it up and then try to scrape it off. My passenger pan( and probably rail from Mikes reply) is shot, but the driver is like yours just surface rust. I wouldn't touch the driver pan on mine but I worry about rust being underneath the paper. Nothing is coming through the bottom. I'm also getting a rust spot between the jack compartments. Where is that coming from? Its been dry for a long time. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-109728 Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricB Posted January 22, 2005 Share #22 Posted January 22, 2005 I've got the answer to that one... Get yourself a heat gun, heat until it softens and then scrape with any heavy duty scraper you have, finish off the remaining spots with Goo Gone (or was it called Goo Off??) - yellow 12 or 16oz container with a red logo and commonly found at Home Depot. Pour some on the tar, let soak for like 10sec and rub out with a rag... Good ventilation helps because that stuff gives you a headache after a while... Did three floorpans like that on the various cars I've owned and it came out perfect - Best part is that it doesn't attack the paint under the tar so provided you didn't get too crazy with your scraper you've got a nice clean floor pan when all is said and done. -e PS: Although I don't have a final clean pic of the floorpan of the pictured car handy right now take my word for it it came out super clean. Pic1 is initial 30yr old tar paper, Pic2 is after heat gun and scraper but before Goo Off applied... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-109750 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted January 22, 2005 Share #23 Posted January 22, 2005 Get yourself a heat gun, heat until it softens and then scrape with any heavy duty scraper you have, finish off the remaining spots with Goo Gone (or was it called Goo Off??) - yellow 12 or 16oz container with a red logo and commonly found at Home Depot. Pour some on the tar, let soak for like 10sec and rub out with a rag... Good ventilation helps because that stuff gives you a headache after a while...I used a heat gun as well. However, instead of the commercial "goo gone" I used Xylene. Xylene is the main ingredient in the commercial goo removers and it's much cheaper to buy a quart of the stuff (also at Home Depot). I would advise working outside in the fresh air and/or using proper ventilation. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-109751 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted January 22, 2005 Share #24 Posted January 22, 2005 I used a heat gun as well. However, instead of the commercial "goo gone" I used Xylene. Xylene is the main ingredient in the commercial goo removers and it's much cheaper to buy a quart of the stuff (also at Home Depot). I would advise working outside in the fresh air and/or using proper ventilation.I used this method also, but I used plain old cheap as dirt Paint Thinner to remove the remaining "crusty bits" from the floor pan. Simple Simon! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/14489-floor-pan-rust-need-to-replace-or-patch-56k-beware/?page=2#findComment-109752 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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