What Fire Extinguisher to buy?

[BunkyScott]

I've got just about everything in my garage, except a fire extinguisher. Thankfully, I've never had to use one to date, but would like to feel safer if a fire did start.

Can you all suggest an appropriate one for all around use in a garage? I've seen different types like A, A-B, etc. I guess I'd concentrate on one for engine fires?

thanks for the advise

Bill

[ChrisA]

Hey Bill, I would recommend a "Multi Purpose" one rated A,B and C.

A=Trash, Wood, Paper

B=Liquids and Gases

C=Energized Electrical Equipment

I would also suggest a reloadable one. If you use it or its charge becomes weak from lack of use, you can take it to a service dealer and have it recharged. Its usually cheaper to have them recharged than to buy a new replacement.

Here's a good link to the vendor I buy mine from.

http://www.kiddeus.com/Fire+Extinguisher+Catalog.shtml

Chris

[TomoHawk]

You would probably want one rated 10ABC or bigger.

[CoastGuardZ]

I find this sites explanation of the ABCD terms interesting. Especially C. I've been an Electronics Tech in the CG for just over 8 years, and one thing we NEVER stop training on is fire fighting. In the middle of the ocean we are our own fire department... and ships are full of hazards. here is my 2 cents

A: Organic fires... paper, wood, etc.

B: Flamable liquids... fuels, oils, etc.

C: Electrical... note: you should only fight an electrical fire when energized when you

have no other choice. If you secure power you are dealing with an A fire.

D: Combustible metals... Magnesium, old VW engine crankcases were made out

magnesium.

Our helicopters have many magnesium parts on them... if they crash on deck we blast the entire helo overboard with straight streams of H20.

My suggestion to you is an ABC extinguisher. This is a dry chemical extinguisher, typically PKP, that will work on most everything. I would also recommend something larger than the little thing the lady in the pic on Kidde's page is using... that will last maybe 5-10 secs at best. Take it from someone who has actaully fought a few fires... you don't want to run out! Ansul products are pretty good, and they cater to professionals also. I believe their portable line is called sentry.

[hls30.com]

I bought two extinguishers.

1) A medium sized Halon extinguisher to use first because it has no residues, and leaves nothing to cleanup or cause corrosion after use-dry extinguishers contain chemicals that will cause corrosion. Halon is no longer being made(it is a CFC), but is is readily recyleable, and still available-though more expensive than other extinguishers. All commercial aircraft are required by the FAA to use Halon extinguishers and nothing else.

2) A large conventional ABC Fire extinguisher to use if the Halon doesn't get the job done. I would rather have something that needs massive cleaning, than nothing.

Will

[Bambikiller240]

Doesn't use of Halon require breathing apparatus? My understanding of Halon is that it displaces breathable air. When I worked in an electronics manuacturing company we were told that if the Halon system was activated we were to leave the room immediately or risk death by asphyxiation.

[ChrisA]

Here's a quote from a website devoted to Halon.

http://www.h3r.com/index.htm

"The only fire extinguishers that won't choke you and won't damage your aircraft are the liquid Halon extinguishers. They are more expensive than dry chemicals, costing about $100 for a 2-1/2 pound dry chemical extinguisher, but the results are worth the difference in price. Halon works to extinguish fires by using a liquid that turns to gas when it is sprayed into a fire. The gas displaces oxygen to rob the fire of oxygen and cause it to go out. If you spray Halon into the air, it disappears almost as soon as it is sprayed, but is highly effective in closed areas."

Chris

[Bambikiller240]

Ah, Thats what we were dealing with. "Closed areas." We didn't have hand held extinguishers. Our building was equipped with a large Halon system with nozzles in the ceiling. If a fire started, all of the nozzles would go off and flood the room with Halon.

Thanks, ChrisA

[Victor Laury]

I suggest 2 20 pound ABC dry extinguishers, 1 on either side of the area. By entries and exits especially.

[CoastGuardZ]

FWIW: The HALON we use in our engine rooms is HALON 1301 and is set on a 60 sec time delay to give enough time to evacuate the space. The liquid version,1241 I think, isn't as "potent" and this is the stuff in the handhelds. CO2 works the same way, by dispacing oxygen. If Co2 is used in a confined space it can remove enough O2 to kill a human.

[ChrisA]

Good advice Victor. I have one 20 ABC and it's next to the work bench and is close to the front of the cars as parked in the garage. Wouldnt be a bad idea to have another close to the garage door as I'm sometimes working out on the slab.

Chris

[MikeW]

If Co2 is used in a confined space it can remove enough O2 to kill a human.

I'd always heard that about Halon but not CO2. The first place I ever saw a Halon system was in a computer center with big expensive mainframes. Halon would put out any fire without damaging the equipment.

Obviously you wouldn't be able to breathe properly (i.e., get enough oxygen) if the room was completely full of CO2 but CO2 is heavier than air and will sink to the floor. Breathing some CO2 itself is not harmful as you're constantly exhaling it anyhow. Breathing Halon is apparently dangerous in concentrations above 5%-7%.