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Jeez man.....you're right!!!! I just went to thehistorychannel.com and found this!!

http://store.aetv.com/html/product/index.jhtml?id=44187

Or just search for item# AAE-44187

It's $25 bucks and comes on VHS only it seems. Anyway...pretty cool.

sblake01.....the double hump or camel back reference came from way back when I reworked my 68 Camaro. I was a fool and let it go. Will not make the same mistake again........unless my family is hungry of course. But ..... think'n about it, I could take $50 worth of Top Ramen noodles and feed me the wife and kid for at least a year.

Lastly, since the hose that leads from the valve cover heads over to the air filter (at least on the original setup), would it not be possible, since the car is equipped with the webers, to run that hose to a seperate dedicated filter, instead of modifying the individual chrome breather assemblies mounted on the webers. The person that installed the webers modified the chrome breather lid on the foremost carb and attached the hose there. That may have been what was recommended. But if I keep the weber setup, and replace the fugly (scratched-pitted) breather setup that is in place now with a new set, I think it would look better without the hose attached to the top.

If there is a vacuum or temperature issue I am overlooking.....just clue me in.

Thanks for all the help people.

That hose you are talking about is the path for nasty fumes from the block to be returned to the inlet for burning. You can get a little K&N filter to fit right over the outlet if you'd prefer, but I'd hook the hose back up to the air filter. Don't worry about looks, worry about the gases that are escaping. Nasty gases in engine bay can = nasty gases in interior of car cause I bet you have some leaks in the fire wall.

Better still, obtain a set of early SU's for it and the original air filter housing. Then everything will be back to normal. Your zed will :love: you!

there was a episode on the history channel a few years back that gave the entire history of the z car and the changes made year by year . you might want to see if you can get it .

Don't expect that documentary to be 100% accurate in any aspect of the info presented. You'll find better information on the www.ZHome.com website. (if you are reffering to a North American spec car)

Carl, went out to check all the numbers you mentioned, and now I don't know whether to be depressed or not. The number left of the master vac matches the one on the id tag. The engine number on the id tag does not in fact match the one on the block. The number (if I read it correctly in the dark with a flashlight)

on the tag is L24 092653, but the number on the block is L24 008107. Like I said...It's 11pm here...but I am pretty sure thats what it is. I guess the engine is not original. :disappoin

Hi Zthing:

Well the bad news is that you don't have the original engine, the good news is that now you don't have to worry about it either.

As your Z ownership progresses... at some point down the road, you might like to add an L28 or even a Turbo L28 ....and you won't have to worry about keeping the car "pure stock"...

If you recorded the actual engine number correctly... that engine would be from a 240Z built 06/70. That would also explain having the E31 cylinder head.

FWIW,

Carl

Zthing,

I'd make sure that hose from the top of the valve cover goes into one of the air filters on the carbs, because the gases will get recirculated and burned (good for the earth)...and...

anytime you have exhaust leaking on a Z, you run the risk of having it go into the cabin while you're driving. Zs aerodynamics are inherintly (sp) flawed, and anytime there is an exhaust leak and even the smallest cabin leak, you will smell the fumes in the cabin....the car kinda has a really bad air pocket right behind the taillights that will suck anything back into the cabin if there's a leak.

With the engine number what it is, it sounds like you have a series I engine, with the E31 head...very good news! If its going to be a wrong number from original thats good.

Sounds like the PO couldn't afford to get the SUs rebuilt ($600 now) and settles for $400 Webers, which aren't nearly as good. You HAVE to get a set of SUs, get some broken ones or whatever, and spend the 600 to www.Ztherapy.com in Salem, Oregon, and they make the best rebuilds in the world essentially. SUs are superior...they are simpler, the gas/air mixture has a straight path to the head, the SUs only allow a mixture that the motor wants, not what the accelerator pedal says...they are great in stock form with the stock air filter housing (best air horns imo)...only thing that really helps is the Ztherapy rebuild because they replace the needles with SM needles and use roller bearings (they make them) in the butterfly throttle linkage....check em out...Ztherapy rocks, and I love it cause its only 35 miles away from where I live!

Get SUs--you won't be disappointed. I had downdraft webers on my 74 260z however, and they worked great, but that's because the SUs on a 74 were modified for emmissions and only experts could tune them and they still sucked. Get SUS for a 70-72 and they are easy to work on / synchronize.

Later!

In that post (the one you recently quoted) you are correct. I was refering to the #1 post as I didn't see the one that you saw. Had you initially quoted the post that you were referring to, I would have understood your statement more clearly.

Whats a matter carl, getting blind in your old age? LOL It was from post number 1. You can go back and read the whole post you will clearly see that sentence.

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