switching differentials......

[WishN4DaZ]

first, which is better to switch into a 240Z......R180 or R200 ( better meaning easier to do and till get better perf. ) second...does the kit and parts they sell HereNismo handle everything you would need to get from a donor car?

Matt

[kmack]

Hmmmm, which is better, huh?

Depends on what you're doing with the engine really. The R180 will handle all the power a modded up up L28 can deliver. Plus it'll already be there in the 240.

If you going to something along the lines of an L28 Turbo, then you'll probably need the R200.

The R200 is heavier than the R180 and slightly beefier. In order to install the R200 into a 240, you'll need the diff., drive shaft, half-shafts, and I think the you'll need the rear suspension, too. The last part I'm not too sure on.

[Phacade]

Really it boils down to how much work do you want to put in it? I rebuilt my 240Z complete with L28 and my R180 worked fine. Clunked a bit but was fine.

[WishN4DaZ]

how difficult is it to swap out R180's....to one with a ratio more geared toward accel if the 240 already has a R180?

what diff. would you recomend?

P.S. I intend to stay with the L24 and just play with it.

Matt

[grantman240z]

if your replacing a R180 with a R180 it should be a straight bolt-up without any mods to anything.

[2ManyZs]

kmack is right, changing over to an R-200 with anything less than a turbo L series engine or a V-8 conversion is a bit of a waste. If you plan on using a L-24 up to an L-28 save yourself some trouble, money and weight and stick with the R-180.

If you change to the R-200 you have to change the mustache bar, the rear suspension transverse link or bar, and also the front diff mount, plus what kmack said.

There are different ratios available for the R-180, just takes a little patience to find them.

As far as the clunking issue goes, there are 4 main reasons for it. Bad U-joints, bad bushings in the mustache bar mounts, loose front diff mount, and too much lash in the ring and pinion. Check the u-joints first, then replace the mustache bar bushings and the front diff mount, make sure the mounting bolts are tight on the mustache bar and if you still have a lot of clunking it's time to re-build the diff.

[byunique]

R180 is considerably lighter...25lbs and if you ever wanted to go LSD, you can get a R-180 LSD 3.70 from a junkyard later model Z. To do a LSD in a R-200 you have to buy the LSD unit for $600 +.

[59ghia]

Sounds like Nissan had a factory 180 lsd. What year cars had them?

Thanx Dave

[Zvoiture]

Yeah, what denotes a 180 LSD?

I'm going and picking up a free '79 tomorrow. Plan on stripping it (more than it already has been!) What diffy will be in it?

steve77

[2ManyZs]

Let me say one thing, there were no LSD's in Z cars until 1987 from the factory. However there were other models that used the R series diff that may have a LSD in it. Perhaps the first generation Maxima, but I believe they had an R-200 if I'm not mistaken. The only other car that may have a LSD would be the 200SX Turbo's but they had R-200's also. Not sure if there were any R-180's offered with an LSD from the factory, however, there are units available for either diff.

Not sure what will be in a 79, I think it will be an R-200. I know they went to the R-200 in 75 yet the later 77-78's had an R-180.

[St.stephen]

you can swipe the R200's out of the 2+2 cars from 75-78..I;ve had several :classic:

[St.stephen]

Oh one other thing, for identification purposes.. the R180's have a 5 bolt flange where the halfshaft goes into the rear. THe R-200's do not.