HELP!!! (painting problems)

[71datsunZ]

I had my z sandblasted and now im cleaning up what sandblasting didnt take off and then im painting it with an etching primer and por 15. First off, is it ok to use etching primer from a rattle can. Also is por 15 ok to cover up rust that i cant get rid of in cracks and corners and stuff? Im first cleaning the metal with metal prep and then im spraying on a few layers of the etching primer. Im not using a painting booth. What happens if I spray the etching primer over some rust or flash rust? Because there was some rust that I couldnt get off and when I cleaned with the metal prep, and some areas turned yellow which I think is flash rust. Im just worried if I leave it the way I did it now, the rust might come back through to haunt me. Should i sand down the etch coat and double check if all the rust is off? Thanks for any help, Im really concerned about the way im doing this. Btw the areas I have done so far is the very front, wheel wells, and under fender areas. Im going to do the engine bay tomorrow.

[71datsunZ]

im hearing not so good stuff on another site and now im freaking out =(

[my_mad_z]

With the etch primer, how exactly did you apply it to the body? You should only spray a fine haze, if you rub your hand across the panel once it has been etched, you should feel a little roughness. I would suggest you try and avoid touching the bear metal as the moisture /swet from your fingers will cause the panel to rust. As for the surface rust, get some rust converter and remove the rust.... with the rust converter I have used, you simply apply it over the rust, wait 10-15min and then wipe clean with a damp cloth. It is suggested that you apply your etch and primer asap. If you have rust showing through the etch, get rid of it as it will only haunt you in the future.

[beandip]

I just finished going through what you describe. First the yellow film left after the metal ready is supposed to be there , leave it alone. POR is ment for places where you are NOT going to finish with a top coat. Like the hood or fenders. POR is for places like the floors , firewall , tranny tunnel and so forth. Do the POR first then wype down the car with grease and wax remover. This a must , than shoot the primer , I used epoxy primer over the bare metal that was going to be shot with the color , top coat , then after the epoxy primer cured then we shot the sanding primer. Rattle can primer in most cases IS NOT compatable with the top coat . So be careful what you are using . Ask the paint vender about compatability before you use it. You dident say what you are going to use for paint. the reason I caution you about the POR is because once it is cured nothing will stick to it , unless you shoot it with the ticoat primer from POR , or sand the POR which is not easy because it is so hard a finish once cured . Or apply the reguler primer or paint before the POR is cured and is still tacky. Asfor the rust in the cracks . If you have preped the area as the directions state , just brush the por in the cracks and flow it in . It will penetrate and seal the seam , especially if you do this from both sides . I have used alot of the POR and I like it . Be sure to use rubber gloves because it loves skin and if let to cure , wich it will quickly on skin , nothing will remove it . If you would like any more info on this stuff send me or escanlon a PM . Gary rust converter is the same as the metal ready . :rambo:

[hls30.com]

Take a look at Garys' gallery-or his past posts and you will see that between him and Enrique(escanlon)-you can't get better advice. They both have beautiful cars, and preparation was the key!

Will

[71datsunZ]

I had ziebart on the panels when i started. I grinded it off with wire wheels. There was a film so I removed that with turpentine and mineral spirits. Then i cleaned the tough spots with dupont metal prep (blue stuff) then put por15 on it. That was over the weekend... then today I cleaned the main areas with the metal prep again and sprayed a few layers of the etching primer. I painted right over the por15 and it stuck... Im not going to do any body panels with por 15. Im just doing the engine bay and wheel wells where i cant reach rust. Then when im done cleaning everything, its going to the body shop where it will be shot with the normal primer and body work will start. Please let me know how im doin

[beandip]

Well in my experience , the paint or primer that was shot over the POR , if it was not preped properly as directed by the maker . it will eventually peal off. This is clearly stated in there directions . By the same token if the surface was not preped as directed the por will do the same . Just wiping the metal with a cleaner or degreaser and using the por will not do , BELIEVE ME . The mariene clean and metal ready are a MUST . Plane and simple. If you want to gamble ??? GARY

[71datsunZ]

how long until it will peel?

[beandip]

hard to say. many times if you just use your thumb nail and scrape it off it peals . I have seen it peal right away and after a time. If you sand the POR and give the top coat or primer '' tooth'' then the paint or primer will stick. If not it will peal. This is the down side to this type of paint.

[71datsunZ]

by how i discribed, will the por peel?

[dogma420]

yes it will! You can't paint over por15 with normal paint...it will come off. You would have to use Por primer or etch the crap out of the por15 to give it some bite, but good luck. Also por's chassis coat black goes over por15 pretty good, but that doesn't help ya.

[beandip]

I dont know , mineral spirits will leave a oil film , I havent used turpintine in 30 years. From what I have seen , using the POR paint . I wouldent gamble . I think it will not bond , another thing if you dident sand the POR well and scuff it down or shoot the ticoat primer . Then ANYTHING you shoot over the POR will not last. It will come off , either peal of chip off. I have had a run of POR that has come from a opening , flow over a primed fender . Once it cured I simplely just lifted it off with my finger nail . This is why any time someone asks me about the stuff , I tell them to strictly follow the instructions on the label . You cannot cut corners , it is a three step process. The Mariene clean has something in it that will etch metal . I thought it was a simple good degreaser and sprayed it on one of my aluminum wheels to prep it before painting it with just rattle can . The Mariene clean etched the finish and dulled it , this is after I had spent hours polishing it. The metal ready also preps the finish and leaves a yellowish tint on rust and bare metal . I was told to use the Metal ready , even on the painted surfaces that were to be painted over with POR , this was after cleaning and using Mariene clean. I havent had any problem with POR not bonding to any finish that was prepped correctly . The only thing that has not gone right is when a seam that was not allowed to dry COMPLETELY and had moisture in it . The POR paint foamed slightly and I had to sand it and reapply a secound coat. It was on seam on the floor so I am the only one that ever will know that it is there . Moisture will cause it to accelerate the cureing process , this is also why in hi humidty it is not recommended to paint with POR . The moisture in the air effects the stuff. Gary :rambo: