Can anyone identify thease parts?

[240zwinter]

I found out that my mustache? bar bushing allowed the metal bar to slap the top of the frame under power so I went out to the wrecking yards again.

I found a 73 240z with an old RotoMaster single SU draw through turbo system tht was not worth pulling but it had some parts I did want : )

The bushings in the mustache bar seem to have top and bottom caps and may be made of harder rubber and is different from every Z I have seen so I dont think they are factory?

The sway bars .940" F and .750" rear have welded tabs, they came with some different brackets to mount it on and were origionaly silver.

Can anyone please help me identify what brand thease may be?

Thanks.

[240zwinter]

Oops sorry forgot to ask about the springs that were on my car when I bought it.

I can not find any markings on them and their uncompressed hieght is about the same as the space between the top and bottom perches. They will rotate by hand when the car is jacked up all the way and they look to be poweder coated blue from the factory?

Any idea on the brand?

Would like to know the brands of the springs and bars so I can have a base line spring/roll rates for further modifications.

Thanks again.

[240zwinter]

Ok I ran into a problem, the muztache bar I pulled of a 73 240z does not seem to be the same one that is on my early 1971?

The post's in the back of the Diff housing are bigger and I wonder if the Diff is a R180 or R200 etc. ?

The bar that came of my car is wider its 2.360" and the holes are bigger 0.690" compaired to the bar off the 73. The 73's bar is 1.8" wide and has 0.590" holes for the diff posts. They also seem to be bent diferently with about 1.8" difference in the bend. All other dimentions are the same bushings, overall length etc.

Anyone know if its because of a different diff or was it on purpouse to allow for the sway bar to clear? The smaller one off the 73 has solid bishings and the one off my car has 2 slots through them.

I would like to keep the stiffer bushings in the smaller one and maybe drill out the holes and see if it works backwards to compensate for the difference in bend?

Any idea's

[jmortensen]

The diff actually sat about 1" forward in the earliest Zs (comparatively) and when it was found that this created vibrations and U joint failures they moved the diff back about an inch in mid 71 to compensate. The mustache bar is different, and the transverse link that goes behind the diff cover is different. I think Nissan had a recall on this and some of the early cars were fixed at the dealer. Quite a few still have the diff in the forward position.

The rear sway bar looks similar to the current Suspension Techniques bar but they have stamped ends, not the welded ends your bars have. ST includes new uprights that the sway bar attaches to that look pretty much identical to what you've got there. Yours are evidently pretty old, might be Mulholland (?).

No idea on the springs.

Not sure why the holes in the bar are different sizes. Maybe they changed the stud size on the R180? Or maybe somebody installed an R200 and drilled out the holes (although I thought they were spaced wider on the R200).

[240zwinter]

So how do I identify my diff.? Is there a way to confirm that it is a R180 or R200?

If I were to replace the rear diff housing and back A-Arm mount/bracket? would I need to get a longer drive shaft or is there enough travel on the splines?

The holes are on the same centers and dont apear to have been drilled out.

The new sway bar mount bracket's come real close to the old mustache bar about 3/8 to 1/4 " away. You can see how close they are in the pic. but dont seem to rub yet : )

Had to use my old bar and bushings with a back yard mechanic's mod that I remember doing years ago and seems to work till I get new ones.

I will post a how to for those in need of a quick cheap fix.

[beandip]

here is a web page that has pictures and compairs the different parts plus it is filled with great info. geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Gary If you tried the address and couldent through , try it again I had to many dots . also when through looking at the first page click on main and check the rest out. There is a page just on diffs but I cant find the address for now. sorry my old computer died and all the info is on the hard drive .

[beandip]

If I understand what you are dealing with . On the early 240s '70 -71 they had a different transvers link and m bar . you need the later link that has a curve in it also when you install the R-200 and you must use it's M bar as well. Plus it must be turned around so the spring pearches are facing the opisite diection the old m bar was faceing . this allows for the longer '' punken '' to fit between the diff mount and the M bar and the drive shaft will be the proper length. The R-200 is larger than the 180 and is about 25 lbs heaver. If you see them side by side it is obvious . The bolts for the mounting of the M bar to the back of the R-200 ''punkin'' are larger also. As for the gearing look to the web page in my privious post and it tells what numbers mean what that are stamped on the ring gear.

[beandip]

here is a web page that has pictures and compairs the different parts plus it is filled with great info. geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Gary

[26th-Z]

Couple of comments and a pictures. I got the same sort of education a few years ago when I discovered the uniqueness between the model years of the S30. It has been my experience to understand that aftermarket parts for the S30 are as proliferant as the VW bug. I would say that the blue coil springs are MSA lowering springs and I say that just because they are painted blue - no other reason. I could be wrong. The welded sway bar end links are the same - probably aftermarket - and anybody's guess as to where they came from - Interpart? No reason to doubt their performance ability. It is just hard to say what specification they are.

[240zwinter]

Well after looking at the Diff. it seems to be a R-200 by all the photo's I have seen. Thanks for the Z car garage web site link Beandip : )

I dont know if its a LSD or not but it does not spin the oposite direction very easy by hand. I suppose I will need to open it up and see as well as confirm the final ratio of the Diff.

I also noticed that the Diff seems to be in the later 1" back position since the drive shafts are at 90 Deg. and the mustache bar is reversed. The back link bar? is barley rubbing the diff so I will need to replace it or just grind a U shaped notch in it for clearance.

The other thing I noticed is the drive shaft seems to be a bit short? I will post a pic. of the gap to see if anyone can tell if this is ok to drive like that.

The 5 speed does not look like the Borg Warner one pictured here http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html It is also not a dogleg 5 speed so it must be a 280 trans.

Accourding to that site it is better to have the later 5 speeds from a 81-83zx but does not show how to identify the early and late 5 speeds?

Can anyone tell me by the pic of my trans or have any info on how to tell if its a early or late 5 speed?

Thanks again for all your help.

[sideshowbob]

Tell me more about this cheap quickfix! I love a good kludge.

[240zwinter]

Tell me more about this cheap quickfix! I love a good kludge.

You mean the bushing repair/mod I posted here http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19283 ?