Driver glass window adjustment

[richard1]

Is there a way to adjust rattling on the driver's glass window when half way down?

Also, since my driver's door has been replaced following my accident in 09/05, the outer skin has started to split from the top of the door.What can be done without dismantling the door and doing all the job again? The insurance company is not the problem because the car is insured and appraised for more than 20K.

Now I understand why the outside rubber window sweeper is not close to the window.

I told the restoration specialist about the problem but all these little adjustments to be done and parts to come take way too much time since they have been ordered two months ago.

Comments are welcome.

[moonpup]

Disregard...my memory is shot!

[hls30.com]

There is a roller in the middle of the top of the door(located under the squeegee, odds are yours has come loose(pressure fit) or the roller has dried out and crumbled-check and replace as necessary.

Will

[Duffman]

Can anyone show a picture of where the roller is positioned on the door?

Thanks!!

[hls30.com]

Have you got either a FSM or the club CD? (The neighbors would not bee too happy if I went out and pulled off the squeegee and snapped the flash at 12:30am) but here is a search on it.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=254212

Will

PS I can post a picture tomorrow.

[EScanlon]

I would first want to look at that "outer skin (that) has started to split from the top of the door".

Depending on how severe that split is, that may be the reason for the rattling. Especially when you comment "Now I understand why the outside rubber window sweeper is not close to the window."

In my opinion, this is probably the biggest cause of your window rattling. If the outer window squeege doesn't touch the glass, then chances are that the pressure roller is BARELY touching it, IF it is touching it. You need to have that checked soon, because if it's the metal cracking at the front, is it also cracking at the back? Unfortunately, the door skin is both crimped and brazed or welded to the door frame. Depending on how severe the cracking/tearing of the metal has progressed, it may be a relatively minor fix or it may require .... welding/brazing and then bodywork and then paint.

As far as the Pressure Roller that Will mentions, there are actually TWO locations that you can insert one in. Cars sold in Japan actually had two of the rollers, we only received the one. If you add the one, it will actually provide more control of the pane and less rattling due to vibrations. But only AFTER you fix the metal cracking. They mount below the outer chrome trim squeege, you'll readily see two "notches" in the upper edge of the door skin. U.S. Cars only received the rearmost roller, whereas JDM received one in each.

FWIW

Enrique

[Duffman]

Will, would appreciate a picture of the roller location, I seem to be having trouble finding the right spot!

Thanks!!

[jmortensen]

Another source of rattling is the bolts that hold the glass onto the frame at the bottom of the window. A little loctite and re-tightening these bolts will help a ton. If your window flops around when you grab the top of the glass and wiggle I can guarantee you that the bolts at the bottom are loose.

[MikeW]

Will, would appreciate a picture of the roller location, I seem to be having trouble finding the right spot!

I can post a picture if you like but it's pretty obvious. As Enrique already mentioned the roller fits into a cutout that's centered six inches back from the front of the window opening.

[a7dz]

The pressure roller is installed as Mike said above. If you want to get better control of the window part way down add the second roller. But once again fix the seperation between the door skin and the door frame. I just redid both door skins at the forward corner on my 70. Welded a doubler in to take some of the shock up when you close the door.

[richard1]

Escalon, in response to your comment above, I obseved that the skin has also started to split not just at the front but also at the rear where the finishing molding grabs.

Today I was looking closer to the problem and i saw that the paint is like "shrinking" or showing "spider webs" under the paint.

What happens now? Threr is no problem like that anywhere else.

[EScanlon]

Richard, you need to have that door skin either brazed or welded.

Unfortunately both of these require heat, which will burn the paint, and therefore require some level of bodywork. Depending on the skill of the welder and the extent of the damage is what will really determine how difficult/extensive the repair becomes. But it is the only real way to fix it.

I wouldn't recommend JBWeld or other Epoxy / Adhesive / Glue as the problem stems from the shock/stress/vibration of closing the door. Any of those adhesive/epoxies will just eventually crack and fall off.

This problem is quite common and most of the time, I've noticed people aren't aware of it, until something such as this happens.

Door skins are typically crimped all around the edge of the door frame....EXCEPT at the leading edge in front of the window slot, and at the back edge just behind the window slot. It's welded /brazed at both of these spots.

The paint "shrinking" or cracking is more than likely evidence of the stress cracks the metal is experiencing, and/ or poor preparation from the prior paint. But I would seriously doubt that this is the reason for that metal cracking. If anything it's an incidental "also" ocurrence and not related.

FWIW

E