240Z orig. radio - no brackets?

[Arne]

Is your's welded?

Yes, it is welded in both cars.

[V8-240Z]

I got my 2nd 240Z (the 1st was in the '70's) last year. It is one of those factory authorized restoration cars (Z-Car). It had a stereo radio in it that I have pulled out and am trying to install an original Hitachi am/fm radio. I have gotten past the huge problem of removing the Heater Controls and Faceplate and finding the proper wires/connections to power the old style radio (the stereo people did a number on the wires). I also believe I have to replace the "automatic" antenna with an old style manual one.

Now my latest problem is that the radio has brackets on both sides but behind the '71 dash there are no corresponding side supports/brackets/hangers to attach them to. The radio will be just "hanging" there unsupported (albeit it is crammed in amongst all the wiring harnesses). This does not seem to be an ideal situation as I can see the weight of the radio moving while under way and putting strong forces on the fragile faceplate and eventually destroying it. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Phil

Just found this on eBay, It looks like it bolts in but there is nothing in my 71 quite like that.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250035195533

[Fairlday-007]

Im new here, and I did a search and didnt see any answer

for a question I had.

Im putting a stock am-fm back in my 73 (theres just a big hole

in the dash now) Once I remove the 4 screws from the faceplate

how does it all come out so I can get the radio in ?

thanks guys

[moonpup]

OPB: Fairlday-007

Once I remove the 4 screws from the faceplate

how does it all come out so I can get the radio in ?

If the heater control face plate is still in, you really need to remove it also, as it will make it much easier to install the radio.

To do this, first remove the fan switch. Take the knob off by unscrewing the small set screw that holds it. Then behind the knob, you'll find a flat nut, take that off and you're done with the switch.

Next, unscrew the map light and pull the unit down enough so that you can disconnect the wires.

Now the harder part. You'll need to remove the heater and vent control cables at the point where they connect under the dash. I believe there's one on the driver side and two up under the passenger side. Once these are disconnected, you're home free. (Just make note of how the cables are routed thru the dash so there won't be any kinks when you reinstall them.)

Remove the screws holding the face plate and pull the unit from the dash. Before reinstalling everything, it'd be a good idea to clean and relube both the cables and the control mechanism. Good luck.

[kirkE]

From the factory wiring harness I have a blue fused wire, a white wire and a white/blue wire. Problem is that both the white and white/blue have been cut at the connector and I don't know where they go to the radio? There is a small round female type connector on the left rear side of the radio, I have taken the radio apart and if I jumper a couple of the pins together then I get a light on the front of the radio to come on. So far no sound, but can anyone advise where these two wires go to the radio, is there a connector missing? Any scematics none of the wiring diagrams I have show these wires?

[Carl Beck]

Hi Guys:

Sorry I didn't see this thread when it was started...

At any rate this might help someone...

FWIW,

Carl B.

[EScanlon]

KirkE:

In response to your question:

The White and White/Blue wire won't show up on the car's schematic as they're for the speaker. Only one speaker for the early years. In the attached pictures the wires appear Gray and Gray/Black.

Take a look at the attached picture, there you'll see two more wires a Red/Blue and a Blue.

The Red/Blue is for the light that comes on with the Instrument Lights.

The Blue is the power wire for the radio. It often also has a noise suppressor coil in an in-line fuse holder either with or without a fuse. See the second picture for what the noise suppresor would look like.

The radio gets grounded through the chassis.

Hope this helps

E