KayceeZ Posted September 17, 2006 Share #1 Posted September 17, 2006 I recently bought a 1973 240Z. The prior owner advertised the car as "no rust". Obviously he had not looked under the car in some time. The floor pans have been repaired before and need to be repaired again. I have found floor pan replacement kits on the internet. I'm looking for help in two areas. First, can anyone recommend, from prior experience, a floor pan replacement kit. Secondly, does anyone know of someone in the Kansas City area that install these kits. Thanks! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21608-floor-pans/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted September 17, 2006 Share #2 Posted September 17, 2006 I can't help you with the Kansas City part but from everything I've read on the subject there's only one place to get the pans from:Zedd Findingshttp://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htmI'd suggest searching this site for past discussions on the subject. Many people here have used these pans and can offer good advice about the installation. I've never seen a single complaint about the product. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21608-floor-pans/#findComment-182772 Share on other sites More sharing options...
26th-Z Posted September 17, 2006 Share #3 Posted September 17, 2006 Thumbs up on Mike's answer. Charlie Osborne has what you need. Frame rails included. Don't confuse Charlie with the Ebay seller zeddfindings. Different guy. Keep the transmission mount cross member bolted in place so that you don't deform the tunnel when you weld in the new pans. Another good source for replacement metal is http://www.baddogparts.com/index.htm Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21608-floor-pans/#findComment-182784 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zak's Z Posted September 17, 2006 Share #4 Posted September 17, 2006 I bought the floor pans from Charlie at Zedd Findings, they are great. I also met the ebay seller zfindings. Different guy is right! He had a rust free '72 rolling shell to sell me. I travelled 3 hours, cash in hand. When I got there, he took me to a farm where there was a rotted, rusted out shell. I was serioulsly dissapointed, he made it sound PERFECT. He outright lied, there was no mistaking the condition of it. I didnt stick around long enough to listen to his sales pitch. Im glad I didnt rent a trailer first, or I would have been out money. Lesson learned - Caveat Emptor.Zak Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21608-floor-pans/#findComment-182792 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZ Posted September 17, 2006 Share #5 Posted September 17, 2006 If I had to do mine over again I'd do them in stainless. It's easy to have a sheet metal shop bend up the sleeves which attatch to your frame rails... They could be stainless too. Usually stainnless runs about $300 for a 4x8 sheet but I've found some for $90/sh at my local surplus yard. Getting paint to stick well to stainless takes some extra prep but it would be worth it.Jim Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21608-floor-pans/#findComment-182800 Share on other sites More sharing options...
a7dz Posted September 17, 2006 Share #6 Posted September 17, 2006 I just finished up the rework on mine and can not buy into the thoughts that stainless is the way to go. After thirty six years of abuse these floor pans were in great shape. The only places I had rust through is where the frame rails were rolled over by those new fangled jacks used in most tire shops these days. The deal there was that the under coating was broken and I did not fix it until it was way too late. All the rest of the metal in the floor panels was solid and cleaned up nicely. I had a local sheet metal shop bend the frame rails up for me at a nominal cost. Yes, I did section the floor above the frame rail and then welded in both pieces.Charlie Osborne’s floor panels would have been my fix if my floor pans were in any worse shape. One of the guys in the Northwest had a pan he did not use but of course it was not the one I needed. If it would have been I would have used it Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21608-floor-pans/#findComment-182828 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZ Posted September 18, 2006 Share #7 Posted September 18, 2006 My only reason for using stainless is if one should have puddling inside their car. If you live where it rains or snows a lot your carpets can get damp. It would be a relief to know that there are limited chances/places of damage. Forgot to roll up the windows a few times and came out to find soaked capets ranging to 1/2" of standing water in the car. Painted/undercoated steel would be fine but if you can find some surplus stainless...I would love to go the steel route if they still offered the whole floor section. (tranny tunnel and all) That would be nice.I'm not dissing the steel pans that are offered out there. I used steel when I did mine. I also remember being under the car sandblasting. Even with the thing tilted 40 degrees it wasn't fun. I like some of the pictures I 've seen on this site where people use a matress! Have to remember that next time I need to clean up the bottom.Jim Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21608-floor-pans/#findComment-182832 Share on other sites More sharing options...
1980_280zx? Posted September 19, 2006 Share #8 Posted September 19, 2006 ok kaycee let me know how they turn out I have to do my pans as well. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21608-floor-pans/#findComment-182934 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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