commplexone Posted November 28, 2006 Author Share #13 Posted November 28, 2006 I installed the oem mechanical replacement just to see if i was having a pump issue. I just got off the phone with top end performance and they said my lobe might be worn that drives the pump so i should definately just bite the bullet and go electric. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/22424-help-please-this-is-a-good-one/?page=2#findComment-190764 Share on other sites More sharing options...
EScanlon Posted November 28, 2006 Share #14 Posted November 28, 2006 Not being the mechanic that the other responders are, my suggestions may be moot, or not applicable. But with that out of the way....Why not swap the fuel line to the Carbs, 1 goes to 2 and 2 to 1, then run your check again. If the problem now is in Carb 1, your problem is not the carburator but at a guess in the fuel rail between 1 and 2. If on the other hand, the problem is still with Carb 2, then your problem is in the inlet portion of that carburator. Next, try feeding the fuel directly to the carburators from the fuel pump. Use hoses approved for fuel use as well as the "Y" splitter. Check again and see what your results are. Unless you've managed to hook up the electronic choke on the carburators I wouldn't mess with anything electrical. All you'll do is compound the problem.Eliminate the fuel supply as the problem or not, THEN go on to other things.FWIWE Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/22424-help-please-this-is-a-good-one/?page=2#findComment-190768 Share on other sites More sharing options...
beandip Posted November 29, 2006 Share #15 Posted November 29, 2006 Sounds like the problem is with the #2 carb . I don't know a thing about Weber's so I cannot be of help there . Question do the Weber's have a filter or screen in the inlet to the float chamber ? The fuel rail is there so that the heated fuel gets flushed back to the tank rather than just sitting there over the exhaust manifold and boiling. There is a metering hole at the end of the fuel rail that keeps he pressure up in the system when the demand is greater . So it is not just a tubing that runs back to the tank . If at idle and the engine is running fine , can you shut it down and remove the float bowl cover and check the level , then do the same when the engine malfunctions . Just clutch it and turn it off and pop off the cover and see the fuel and compair . Just a thought. Gary :paranoid: Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/22424-help-please-this-is-a-good-one/?page=2#findComment-190834 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pir0San Posted November 29, 2006 Share #16 Posted November 29, 2006 I installed the oem mechanical replacement just to see if i was having a pump issue. I just got off the phone with top end performance and they said my lobe might be worn that drives the pump so i should definately just bite the bullet and go electric.The lobes rarely ever get worn that bad, in my experiences. You can take your valve cover off and inspect it yourself, to rule that problem out. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/22424-help-please-this-is-a-good-one/?page=2#findComment-190873 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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