Hello and I got a question

[dashtonn]

Hi all,

I just joined after browsing the threads. I am looking to pick up my first Z and have a question. I found a 1970 240Z RHD, that has been sitting in a garage for about 16 years. I forgot to check the milage when I looked at it, but otherwise everything seemed to be there. The doors shut beautifully which tells me it has not been to abused.

My question is, is a RHD 240 Z worth picking up. I have not been able to find to much info on this model. I don't want it as a collector, more as something just fun to drive around. My speculation with this car is all it would need would be a battery, fluids, and a tune up.

Also any links or info about this model would be great.

Thank you

Don

[Arne]

Welcome, Don.

A RHD Z is a cool thing to have, but not so great to use in the US as a general driver. Not being able to see around traffic gets old after a while.

But if you don't buy it, you might want to share it's location in case others here on this board want to consider it.

[hls30.com]

Welcome, and what a find!

A rhd 70 would be more of a collector car than a daily driver. Parts will be harder to find and EXPENSIVE, as you have found out, info is more difficult to find, and unless you can work on the car yourself, you will be paying top dollar to any mechanic you can find that will work on the car-since it is not something they will have in their labor books, parts books, or anywhere else-unless they are a long time and well experienced import mechanic or Datsun specialist.

Will

If you deside against it, I would certianly like a shot at it for a long time restoration,

[Carl Beck]

Hi all,

....snipped.....

My speculation with this car is all it would need would be a battery, fluids, and a tune up.

Hi Don:

In my experience - your speculation would be quite wrong. If it's been sitting in a garage for 16 years, it would need MAJOR and CAREFUL preparation prior to any attempt to turn it over with a battery. Throw a new battery in it, crank it over and you run significant risk of totally screwing it up - and the following expensive and extensive repairs.

Do a lot of pre-wake-up work - and you might get away with only having to spend a few thousand dollars on it to bring it back to roadworthy condition.

You can bet at this point, it will need front calipers, rear wheel cylinders, all rubber brake lines and a new Master Cylinder. Most likely the radiator will be rotted out and you'll have to replace all coolent lines and heater lines. Figure a new clutch master and slave cylinder as well. All these things freeze up, corrode, or otherwise rot when the car sits in storage for more than 10 years. Often in less time than that.

The carpet will more than likely be dry rotting as well. Then there are the tires too.

As to value today of the RHD cars in North America - everyone likes to look at them at shows... but very few people will buy one. So their market prices usually run about 75% of what a like condition LHD car will.

Keep in mind that if it's a 70 240-Z with RHD - it is most likely to have come from Australia or GB. If on the other hand it is a 1970 Nissan Fairlady Z - it isn't a 240-Z. Rather it has a smaller and less powerful 2.0L engine. (if it's still stock).

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Nigel1943]

Welcome, and what a find!

A rhd 70 would be more of a collector car than a daily driver. Parts will be harder to find and EXPENSIVE, as you have found out, info is more difficult to find, and unless you can work on the car yourself, you will be paying top dollar to any mechanic you can find that will work on the car-since it is not something they will have in their labor books, parts books, or anywhere else-unless they are a long time and well experienced import mechanic or Datsun specialist.

Will

If you deside against it, I would certianly like a shot at it for a long time restoration,

HEH! R/H drive is only a US car the other way round. Less electrical gubbins on it as well. Should actually be easier to work on. Parts are 90% the same as Euro/Aus cars so parts should'nt be any more expensive. Only major differences that come to mind are the dash, gearbox [ UK never got the 4speed or auto] and therefore driveshaft. You also get the benefit [possibly] of a 3.9 diff. Body parts are the same with the exception, of course, of the bulkhead and the rear quarters[ one hole on each for turn signals]

Just make sure it's not a Fairlady Z.

[HS30-H]

Just make sure it's not a Fairlady Z.

Why? You make it sound like that would be a disaster. It could be quite the opposite.

dashtonn,

I'd say the most important thing here is a 100% positive identification of model and specification. Then you know what you are dealing with. See if you can find the full VIN number / body serial number stamped on the firewall of the car ( above the brake booster, underneath a few wires and tubes ). That will help us to positively identify the model. The trim and accessories will help to identify the specification. There are people here that can help you pin it down.

As to value today of the RHD cars in North America - everyone likes to look at them at shows... but very few people will buy one. So their market prices usually run about 75% of what a like condition LHD car will.

The key point there being the "......in North America....." bit. A true 1969 or 1970 build date RHD Z car ( yes - especially even a 'Fairlady Z' or 'Fairlady Z-L' ) is worth MORE in overall world terms than an LHD model in similar condition. That's a function of rarity, desirability ( outside the USA/Canada ) and the relative weak exchange rate of the $US at the moment. So all one needs to do is put the car in front of the right buyer.

dashtonn, if it really is a 1969 or 1970 build-dated RHD model, then I would be interested in buying it myself. Just thought I'd give you a little encouragement to show you that it is just a matter of putting the car in front of the right people should you ever wish to sell it.

Good luck,

Alan T.

[26th-Z]

Don,

You came to the right place to find information about your car. I do not agree that a specialized mechanic would be needed - necessarily - but there are many unique differences. Within our ranks, you will find people with whom a great deal of knowledge about the RHD models is available. Buyers as well! We love pictures and we love discussing our cars. I encourage you to join us with your unique example and play Z with us.

Chris

[dashtonn]

Thanks to everyone for their help. Working on cars is easy, so that won't be a problem. Thew interior is great condition, minus some wierd custom carpet work done in the back, but it did not smell in side, so that was another key point for me. It was preserved very well, If I don't go through with the purchase, I will pass the info on as to the location.

How will I be able to tell if it is a Fairlady Z?

[hls30.com]

My point was that most mechanics have enough to work on that they are familiar with and would charge more to work on something they are not familiar with-comparing a job rate to a labor rate, I have always found the labor rate is always more expensive. Changing out or rebuilding a 37 year old steering rack could be outrageously expensive and time consuming-the parts evidently do not interchange-waiting on parts to be shipped from overseas...

Will

[HS30-H]

How will I be able to tell if it is a Fairlady Z?

1969 and 1970 year production 'Fairlady Z' ( S30-S base model ) and 'Fairlady Z-L' ( S30 luxury model ) both shared the 'S30' VIN prefix. The trim and accessories ( and some of the mechanicals up to a point ) will help you to differentiate between the two. I'd expect a 1969~1970 build car to have a number between 'S30-00001' and 'S30-04504'

Also take a look to see if the engine-bay VIN plate is still present - it is attached to the driver's side inner wing ( fender ) and those on Japanese-market cars are written in Japanese ( but the VIN is in a combination of roman letters and arabic numerals ). This plate might also have some extra information to help you identify the car, as the Japanese taxation class data is coded into it.

I'd try to find the engine number too. You will find this stamped on a cast pad at the rear area of the block, just underneath the cylinder head / block joint and on the side of the engine that has the spark plugs. Try to get the full number and the prefix too.

There is always the slight possibility that it could actually turn out to be a 1971 build-dated car, and if it was built towards the end of the year then there is the added complication that it could be a 'Fairlady 240Z' ( HS30-S model ) or 'Fairlady 240Z-L' ( HS30 model ) - which both used the L24 engine and both shared the 'HS30' VIN prefix. Again, VIN number will tell the tale and trim / accessories present or not present will tell the rest of the story.

If it is an RHD Export-market car made in the 1969~1973 period, then it will have an 'HS30' VIN prefix too.

Let us know how you get on.

[jackwarnock]

G'day all. I am wondering why Nigel1943 says "Just make sure it's not a Fairlady Z". I have a 1973 Datsun Fairlady 240Z-L VIN HS30-103407. I believe it is quite a special car, not something to be negative about.

Nigel1943 can you tell us what you have concerns about?

Regards,Jack.