Putting on new door seals

[biker]

Can anyone post a close up of how their door seals sit or tell us how they mount.

Have received new door seals but the old ones were a botch job (just insertion rubber glued on) and every way that I try to put them on looks right but I am unable to close the door as the seal fouls on it.

Thanks

Biker

[EScanlon]

If you look at the cross section of the seal (or visualize it), it looks like a letter "M". With the leg and the downward diagonal of one side fatter than the other. The fatter one goes towards the door. The thinner one goes on the metal edge around the door opening. The welting then goes on top of that thin leg and diagonal to pinch it onto the metal.

I'm answering this way, because the one with the welting (metal clip that's encased in rubber) already attached to the weatherstrip is pretty much self explanatory...gasket towards door.

Closing the door after new door seals isn't unusual though. You might have had the door previously adjusted for the previously crushed or missing seal. You now need to adjust for the new gasket's sponginess.

FWIW

E

[kevbo]

I will be working on the door seals for my '77' z next week and would be curious to see any pics of others work. I have the same situation, previous owner had lousy glue job and everything is falling off. I am considering McMaster Carr for doors, still not sure about rear hatch seals but open to any suggestions you might have.

[EScanlon]

Before you commit to McM-C and trying to figure out how much, which one, etc to buy, why not check with some of the known vendors?

Your car being a 77 may very well NOT have the problems of the doors not closing properly. It is the EARLIER 240 vehicles that have that problem. Yours being a 77 should be a 280 and by then the door jamb area was subtly different by being deeper, (I don't remember the specifics, maybe someone else can chime in) such that the gaskets that everyone gets NOW are slightly thicker and cause some problems on the earlier vehicles that did NOT have the deeper jamb.

By getting it from the vendors you'll help keep demand of the product up, hopefully encouraging manufacturer's to maintain production but also you won't waste time with possible "fixes" only to be disappointed.

The same applies for the hatch seals.

Motorsports Auto, Black Dragon Automotive, Courtesy Nissan, Bansai Motorworks, Too Intense Restoration, even some of the e-Bay sellers Schluderm, Reddat, Stockcuz, are good sources of the parts. There are a few more, and I'm sure others will post their preferences and avoidances...

You might even save some time, buy the club CD (if you haven't already) and using that micro-fiche get the Part Number and ask at your local Nissan Dealer. You'd be surprised at how many parts are STILL available from them.

2¢

Enrique

[biker]

Thanks Escanlon for your definitive description of how to place on the seals.

The previous owner just stuck somne rubber insertion to the side of the capping that goes over the metal edge. I was totally confused by this.

lot clearer now

regards

biker:)

[kevbo]

Thanks E, I will put in a little more research time on this before starting. Was not aware fo the difference on the 240 and the 280 doors either, very good to know.