bartsscooterservice Posted May 18, 2017 Share #733 Posted May 18, 2017 (edited) On 5-5-2017 at 2:14 AM, kats said: An interesting modify of my 240ZG, this is the brace for the throttle pedal pivot. The original owner's memo said " throttle need to be more smooth when depress .." This is the solution , a dealer mechanic created unique parts, I think. Some car magazines claimed same thing, the throttle pedal was stiff and hard to control when start rolling. Kats Interesting, this seems to be a complaint with many s30 owners. And the " sticky " throttle. Once I had my rebuild carbs back, the issue was no longer there, so I think alot of problems are in the butterfly shafts, because they actually wear in " oval " , the pedal action is not smooth anymore Edited May 18, 2017 by bartsscooterservice 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-521232 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HS30-H Posted May 18, 2017 Share #734 Posted May 18, 2017 20 minutes ago, 240260280 said: Hi Alan, Not much info on the part. It appears in a photo of shell HS30-00741 in Australia. The photos were taken a while ago. OK, as I suspected, it's an example of custom/privateer fabrication making use of the factory-installed captives in the rear header rail. I guess it proves what they *could* be used for, and may well have been planned by the factory to be used for, but (as far as I'm aware) they didn't. As mentioned - I think - way back, there were at least two different positionings for the two vertical drops in the factory roll over bar/'safety bar'. There was the 'normal' gap width (as seen on the circuit race cars and the Sports/Race Option parts sold to the general public) and the factory Works rally cars, which had a wider gap between the vertical drops, to allow them to carry two spare wheels/tyres. I think the gap between the two sets of captives corresponds to one of the above, but I'd have to go to the garage to check.... 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-521233 Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share #735 Posted May 27, 2017 On 2017/5/18 at 11:12 PM, bartsscooterservice said: Interesting, this seems to be a complaint with many s30 owners. And the " sticky " throttle. Once I had my rebuild carbs back, the issue was no longer there, so I think alot of problems are in the butterfly shafts, because they actually wear in " oval " , the pedal action is not smooth anymore Hi , thank you for the information, the shafts are notorious when they are getting old, I want to check my SUs after seeing your reply. And also some car magazines reported on "new car test" , the throttle pedal was sticky. My blue 240Z had same sticky throttle problem when it was restored like new . Maybe ball joint linkage? Kats 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-521833 Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share #736 Posted May 27, 2017 Thanks Blue and Alan, We want to know what purpose does these nuts have for ? Kats Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-521834 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zup Posted May 27, 2017 Share #737 Posted May 27, 2017 1 hour ago, kats said: Maybe ball joint linkage? That has been my experience. I've read about all sorts of solutions from cutting and repositioning the arm on the throttle lever at the firewall, to bending the linkage rods, to giving up and installing cable linkage. The engineers knew what they were doing---it is not a flawed design. I fought with the sticky throttle, but when ALL of the linkage was cleaned thoroughly and adjusted to the Factory Manual specifications it works smoothly without sticking or binding and is very responsive with a light feel at all speeds. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-521837 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted May 27, 2017 Share #738 Posted May 27, 2017 I agree. As well there is a heck of a lot of adjustment in the linkage. On some cars I repaired with loose linkage, I shortened rods and re-threaded to allow the nylon sockets to screw further in. A few important steps for adjustment that may be missed: 0. As Zup says, clean and lubricate all joints. 1. Do not use the fast idle setting screw as a stop (this screw is only used for tuning). 2. Adjust all rods to take up slack (shorten and cut new threads if needed) 3. Adjust maximum-throw stop and lock nut behind gas pedal 4. Make sure choke wires are not holding jets down at idle. A bit of slack is needed. 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-521841 Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted May 29, 2017 Share #739 Posted May 29, 2017 On 27-5-2017 at 1:52 PM, kats said: Hi , thank you for the information, the shafts are notorious when they are getting old, I want to check my SUs after seeing your reply. And also some car magazines reported on "new car test" , the throttle pedal was sticky. My blue 240Z had same sticky throttle problem when it was restored like new . Maybe ball joint linkage? Kats Personally I don't see the problem in the ball joints ( after all I am still using the old " worn out " ones ), or the entire linkage, but just with the carbs. Mine where done by Ztherapy, so not sure what they did ? Found this on their website: Reman Carb Body 69-72 ½ 240Z 3 or 4 Screw w/ZT Roller Shafts (pair) . But there's no friction in the linkage ever since, and the gas pedal goes so light....it's better than a new car. ( I have to note it is sensitive on bumpy roads, but I anticipate on that by backing my foot off) So I guess the shafts in both carbs ( Original state ) cause to much friction in the whole linkage.. ? 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-521932 Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share #740 Posted June 3, 2017 (edited) On 2017/5/29 at 5:55 PM, bartsscooterservice said: Personally I don't see the problem in the ball joints ( after all I am still using the old " worn out " ones ), or the entire linkage, but just with the carbs. Mine where done by Ztherapy, so not sure what they did ? Found this on their website: Reman Carb Body 69-72 ½ 240Z 3 or 4 Screw w/ZT Roller Shafts (pair) . But there's no friction in the linkage ever since, and the gas pedal goes so light....it's better than a new car. ( I have to note it is sensitive on bumpy roads, but I anticipate on that by backing my foot off) So I guess the shafts in both carbs ( Original state ) cause to much friction in the whole linkage.. ? Thanks everyone, bartsscooterservice, I am looking at ZT website, seems to me the roller bearings are good for the butterfly moving, they will give much smoother and almost trouble free for years to come. I saw ZT's 920 gold 240Z at Las Vegas convention 2000, I took my Blue 240Z there too. I am afraid my SU's shafts are sucking air due to wear. And how is everyone doing with the SU damper oil? 0-20W is stiff for the pistons movement, I will try much thinner oil. Kats Edited June 3, 2017 by kats Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-522217 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted June 3, 2017 Share #741 Posted June 3, 2017 54 minutes ago, kats said: Thanks everyone, bartsscooterservice, I am looking at ZT website, seems to me the roller bearings are good for the butterfly moving, they will give much smoother and almost trouble free for years to come. I saw ZT's 920 gold 240Z at Las Vegas convention 2000, I took my Blue 240Z there too. I am afraid my SU's shafts are sucking air due to wear. And how is everyone doing with the SU damper oil? 0-20W is stiff for the pistons movement, I will try much thinner oil. Kats Try A.T.F. I ran it for twenty plus years and never found a reason to change. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-522219 Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share #742 Posted June 3, 2017 Hi Mark Maras, ATF ! I have never imagined it , thanks for the information. Kats Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-522228 Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share #743 Posted June 3, 2017 (edited) Here is my 12/1971 automatic 240Z, it runs very nice.I do not know what oil is in it. Kats Edited June 3, 2017 by kats Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-522234 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gav240z Posted June 3, 2017 Share #744 Posted June 3, 2017 I'm pretty sure I've heard of using Sewing machine oil also, but I can't see what viscosity this is. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Singer-Sewing-Machine-Oil-100ml-bottle-All-Purpose-Industrial-Domestic-/361836074079 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?page=62#findComment-522238 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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