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Yup,

isn't that car in your avator from GT4?

Yup that game is still great! Fastest time on Nurburing so far is 7:58'ish

Sweet. Congratulations.

Thaynx yo HAHA, Woke up this morning and found I loved it MORE ^_^

Hey wingZro

Befor you spend a pile of money on paint, you should try a mild/medium compound - polish and wax. You may be suprised.

Diffenitely have to look into that compound for sure.

Someone had the nerve to key the car befor I took delivery :mad: not bad though jus minor.

Says "F@@@ U" above Driver door handle and "F@@@ U Sunny" on the roof above

the driver side window just light enough and small enough to put a Nismo logo Decal over it if need be!

....... No Good Bums....

The exhaust things first cause I have to pass smog to get the Title registered in my name at DMV.

I think the Problem is this, rusty exhaust pipe and possibly bad

manifold flange gasket between where the manifold connects to the exhaust pipe.

I think the flange gasket is rusted out somewhat cause

the gasket between the engine block and manifold looks OK.

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100_2295.2.jpg

Heres goes a shot of the engine compartment and the build date of 10/76 ^_^

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100_2292.2.jpg

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100_2290.2.jpg

Also came with A/C that works.

And was also part of some recall that got corrected as evidenced by a stcker on the back of the hood.

Also the factory didn't write the Paint Color Number on the color decal so I don't what Ruby's true color :)ROFL

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100_2303.1.jpg

~Z~

It may be the angle of the photo, but the fuzable links may need some attention.

Or, at least they need the fusible link covers.

Also the factory didn't write the Paint Color Number on the color decal so I don't what Ruby's true color

Either the number wore off or the PO rubbed it off. From the little I can see in the pictures, it might have been the same color as mine (code 510 blue). Lift your rear shelf and look at the color in the spare tire well or inside any of the panels. Door, rear compartment, etc. Most people don't have those areas painted when the have a repaint done.

Yeah I thought a Angry potential buyer keyed her too as it showed up

about a week befor I brought her home.

The Blue you see on the back of the hood Blake is actualy steel colored or primemer maybe.

Everywhere I look including the Sprare tire, Doors and so on only show Red paint.

In areas where paint is missing or chipped only reveals metal and no other

colors show.

If it was a repaint someone did a very good job of it.

There is however some majoy overspray of Red paint thats been "clear coated" over

the windshield weather striping.

And theres this Neon Pink clay stuff on most of the seems and cowl vents that I thought

was worn or fadded paint untill I looked just now and noticed it flakes off revealing

nothing but good paint undeneath.

Whats is this stuff?

I'll post more pics of the above areas in the morning and get on ordering

those Fusible link covers :rambo:

~Z~

And theres this Neon Pink clay stuff on most of the seems and cowl vents that I thought was worn or fadded paint untill I looked just now and noticed it flakes off revealing nothing but good paint undeneath.

Whats is this stuff?

From that description it could just be wax that was missed. I use a xtra soft toothbrush to get the wax out of the nooks and crannies. Over time if it's left there it gets kind of clay-like.

And was also part of some recall that got corrected as evidenced by a stcker on the back of the hood

I read a TSB (technical service bulletin) on that a few years ago at my buddy's shop. The BPT (Backpressure transducer IIRC) valve controls the amount of vacuum that goes to the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve. All part of the smog control system. Apparently, there was some problem with the valve allowing too much vacuum which caused the car to emit too much nitrogen oxide from the exhaust which not only made the cars have difficulty passing the emissions test but also caused driveability problems. That sticker show that the valve was replaced with the upgraded one.

From that description it could just be wax that was missed. I use a xtra soft toothbrush to get the wax out of the nooks and crannies. Over time if it's left there it gets kind of clay-like.

THATS FUNNY :classic: I came to that same conclusion about

5 minutes ago when I took a look at her just now after I came home from work,

then sat down and read your post ROFL

I never thought some one could miss this much wax, especially an owner.

Some one must been in a real hurry as this stuff is literally

all over the car :finger:

Funny thing is I took her to one of those so called "High End" automated car washes,

.... yeah good job that did :cheeky: and already theres a fine layer of dust

on the car.

So it's gonna be me, a cheese cloth, wax, and that tooth brush ^_^

Also I noticed theres alot of heat coming up through the shifter boot

making the metal part of the shift handle hot to the touch.

Is this normal or is there a bad seal some where under the boot between the transmission

and center counsol thats letting the fumes get inside causeing my "exhaust leak" problem?

Thinking about switching out the exhaust manifold for a 3 into 2 from MSA

and replacing the entire exhaust pipe line after getting a tune up, that is

if the tune up don't fix "the leak".

The moter was running hot at around 240 in the beggining and the oil

preasure wouldn't go past 2 or 6 lbs preasure :surprised.

The car has been sitting garaged for awhile for the better part of 3 years, so

maybe I'll do a complete fluid change befor checking gauges and electricals.

~Z~

  • 2 weeks later...

Made an appointment to get my Valves adjusted on Thursday and the Lady, yes thats right a Girl ^_^, said it also sounds like my timing chain is loose and the timing is way advanced which is why my engine bogs and stalls on idle sometimes.

Changed My Fuel Filter by myself yesterday and my gas came out looking rusty colored.

Going to have the Tank dropped, cleaned and recoated in 2 weeks by a well known rediator shop in town.

Turn around time is one week but the shop will not do fuel rails for safety reasons.

Adding a new Fuel Pump when Tank is reinstalled, but do I need to clean the Fuel Lines and EFI fuel rails as well and should I clean the tank befor or after getting my Valves fixed.

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