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I am getting ready to strip out my 72 240Z so I can restore the unibody before painting. Other than the rather unusual and silly body damage on the rear end, there is very little rust on the car, so I figure I might as well do it right.

My question: where do I start removing parts, and in what order?

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I am getting ready to strip out my 72 240Z so I can restore the unibody before painting. Other than the rather unusual and silly body damage on the rear end, there is very little rust on the car, so I figure I might as well do it right.

My question: where do I start removing parts, and in what order?

It's not clear to me if you're talking about the interior or the exterior or both. I can't think of many cases where the order really matters. Just start pulling things off and keep going until you're done. If you can't get something off because something else is in the way, well, you've got the order wrong.LOL

For the interior the plastic panels in the rear need to be removed in a certain order since they overlap each other and are easily cracked if you try to coerce them in the wrong order. Start with the piece that covers the taillights and work forward from there.

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The best advice I can give you is to DOCUMENT and BAG&TAG everything you do, every step you take. I disassembled my '72 almost 3 years ago now, I took photos of everything I did, I put every part and screw in a ziplock bag, and I STILL wont be able to put it back together without help. I cant remember what some parts are now, and I cant recall how some parts go back in.

Do yourself a huge favor and take pics, put things in bags and properly label them, and even write down what you did to remove them and in what order. It will take longer, but save you lots of time at assembly time.

I took apart the interior first, then just started unbolting the exterior in whatever came off first.

Theres a good book by WICK/HUMBLE on how to restore your z car. You should get it as it gives a good overview on what to tackle and in what order.

Zak

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Like the above comments, I stripped my car into zip lock bags where possible and took a zillion digital photos from far to many angles at 5 megapixels each. The idea being that if I get stuck putting it back together, I can refer back.

Either fab up a rotisserie yourself or your panel shop may have one they can adapt up. Just before you put it on, drop the entire undercarriage. While the body is being dealt to, you can sort the suspension, gearbox and engine. When it's painted, get it back without the hood, guards, doors and hatch, so you can minimise scratching it while you re-assemble everything, testing each part as you go. This method could be thought of as "a little too far" by some but the amount of leaning over guards to work on the engine bay is a lot. Putting the dash and interior back together would be easier with the door off of course.

I would pay some particular attention to the wiring. Make sure you label every connector. I wrote a different letter on each pair of connectors. You can easily destroy a loom if you hook it up wrong.

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This is timely. Its sunny and hot here in western canada. My kids are out of school and I should be spending time with them tomorrow (friday afternoon)

I AM taking the day off, but...

There is a 73 240z at the boneyard with primo fenders that I need to get.

I have my 10 and 12mm sockets ready to go, but I need to know what other tools Im going to need and what to do.

I know I have to take the cowl off, and probably the front bumper.

I want to be done removing 2 fenders in 2 hours.

Instructions please!

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I am getting ready to strip out my 72 240Z so I can restore the unibody before painting. Other than the rather unusual and silly body damage on the rear end, there is very little rust on the car, so I figure I might as well do it right.

My question: where do I start removing parts, and in what order?

For some , striping the car for paint is sanding and priming. Just like some say they are going to ''restore'' there car. In my mind a restoration is to dissemble the entire car and bring it back to like it came off the showroom floor. With all Nissan bolts and washers hoses and so on. If you do ANY modifications from OEM the car then is another modified Z, which 90% of us own. How you go about the process depends on how far you are going to go in the project. Do you plan on rebuilding the engine ? If so are you having it done or doing it your self. The same question of the body work and paint preparation. Are you replacing the interior , dash etc? When you do repaint will it be the same color as she was originally ? You are looking at about 20K for a restoration . From there it just depends on how much you can do your self and how pure a product you want to have when your done, and if you are going to drive the car or just show it. I did my '73 for me. She is a car I drive on mostly good weather days. If it rains, it's not a big deal. I show the car and she does look good , at least to me . Non stock Yellow with a ZX engine that is modified some. Up graded suspension and lowered. And a blast to drive. I did almost all the work on the car with the help of a good friend. In my own garage. Paint and all. It took me about 3 1/2 yrs. My Wife and neighbors were vary understanding with the noise. My friend EScanlon taught me how to do body work and showed me how to properly prep the car for paint (sanding and such). I did all the mechanicals myself as well as the reassembly . EScanlon did the dash thank God. I cannot bend like that any more. LOL Plus he was a Big help with the wiring. (further mods done there) I think my Z is a 10 footer. Sure there are flaws and I know there there but you have to look to find them . I have put almost 10K on the car since reassembly , Yesterday she just turned 300,000 miles and is standing proud. Gary

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This is timely. Its sunny and hot here in western canada. My kids are out of school and I should be spending time with them tomorrow (friday afternoon)

I AM taking the day off, but...

There is a 73 240z at the boneyard with primo fenders that I need to get.

I have my 10 and 12mm sockets ready to go, but I need to know what other tools Im going to need and what to do.

I know I have to take the cowl off, and probably the front bumper.

I want to be done removing 2 fenders in 2 hours.

Instructions please!

I know you don't realize it , but you are hi-jacking the thread . 2 hrs is vary optimistic.

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For the interior the plastic panels in the rear need to be removed in a certain order since they overlap each other and are easily cracked if you try to coerce them in the wrong order. Start with the piece that covers the taillights and work forward from there.

Not as I recall. You start disassembly with the panel that has the overhead light, then do the quarter window panels, then the rear side panels, then take the rear finisher out. They do overlap.... if you look at them you can see what is on top of what... but without running out to the garage... I'm pretty sure you start at the front...

FWIW,

Carl B.

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This thread is just in time. I am about to diassemble a 72 to be rebuilt as a widebody, G-nose, JDM street racer. The car is for my friend, he has so many brand new parts in original boxes for the rebuild he even has a brand new wire harness in the Nissan bag. He wants it painted on throughout including the underside. It will have a complete Arizona Z suspension including the Mustache bar replacement. I also will use my 73 as the go by in case I forget where stuff should be placed. I think the interior is going to be done like a IMSA car so I don't have to worry about the plastic panels. This car will have over $20K in parts and labor in it, the engine alone with the parts he has will be worth over $5K. I am excited but yet nevous about taking apart a perfectly working car....I tried to buy a nice shell a few weeks ago but fell just $36 short of the final bit price. I will catalog everything and my friend will do a webpage devoted to the project. I will also be hitting you guys up for advice at every turn.

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Not as I recall. You start disassembly with the panel that has the overhead light, then do the quarter window panels, then the rear side panels, then take the rear finisher out. They do overlap.... if you look at them you can see what is on top of what... but without running out to the garage... I'm pretty sure you start at the front...

FWIW,

Carl B.

I do believe you're right but I think the rear finisher can go in or out at any time and the quarter panels are probably easier to get in and out without the rear finisher in place. The others overlap as you say with the overhead panel being the top most and therefore the first to come off.

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