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I read the "launching" out of neutral can be harse but what causes that?

From what I know that is auto only. Rev like crazy in neutral and when you are ready to go, drop the stick into drive. Doing manual shift in a traditional auto isn't good for the tranny in general.

Though what I heard that you can do in a manual is skip 1st all together in a launch which is supposed to give you better launches but is bad for the transmission. There is a technique to it that I am not sure of how it works.

But for what I have heard, light wheels are for autocross, heavy ones for drag racing so that they don't brake. I would just go with the standard wheel. Maybe 1lb lighter or so, but nothing major. If its a daily driver anything heavy or lighter may not be very fun.


That makes.

I'm diffently dragin this thing ^_^ so last thing I need is a brooken flywheel !

What be stock Flywheel wieght BTW?

The Nakamura one is the lightest I've seen at 7.245 pounds and I have to think Nismo don't make 'em that light.

If I'm not mistaken, my '70 flywheel weighs about 13 pounds.

I replaced the clutch in August and had the flywheel resurfaced. The loss of roughly a pound of metal did have an effect on driveability in the sense that the shifts need to be completed more quickly to maintain smoothness than with the heavier, un-resurfaced unit.

Frank

A stock flywheel weighs 23-24 lbs depending on the source. Even the Y70 810/Maxima flywheel weighs 17.6 lbs. I weighed mine so I know that for a fact. 13 lbs sounds like the Centerforce. Is that what you have? And to answer WinZro's question, a 7.245 lb flywheel would be tough to get going from a dead stop in normal traffic. It just wouldn't generate enough inertia and you have to really bring the rpm up to get it underway.

For street driving, your just going to burn up clutch discs, especially on a up hill start. It's great if you want to leave hard like a race car but remember that race cars get taken apart at the end of the day. Race cars just don't make good street cars and visa versa. I wouldn't go beyond 16lbs. Thats about the limit for a street car. A 9lb. disc will spin so easy that it's going to be tough to control your revs from a dead start. You'll get tired of it real fast and then swap to a heavier disc.

Standard car Standard clutch and flywheel, the heavier flywheel has more weight giving more inertia which is what you want in traffic, ie a light flywheel will require some more RPM to move off the line and hence a little slipping of the clutch, that is unless you put in a lower ratio diff.

Stephen, re #16. You are probably correct in the flywheel weight. It's been 60 days since I hefted mine and never did weigh it. It didn't feel that heavy to me at the time, but maybe I was feeling extra good that morning. LOL

Frank

When I was planning my auto to a 5sp swap I was going to put in a 10.5lbs flywheel and a ACT clutch set up and one day I will but I wanted to get the manual in the car while there were a few races left in the season.

So I took my 23lbs stock flywheel to a shop to lighten it and balance it, it's now down to 15lbs I used a stock clutch as well.

When the 5sp went in I changed the rearend to a 3:90 from the stock 3.54. The over all feel of the car is great she is quick to come up on the RPM's. I can feel the difference from my 76 which is just a stocker....for now:classic:

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