Ebay sellers

[DeesZ]

Geezer, you put it very well. It's not perfect, but I can't find a better game.... And folks, consider it that, a game... sometime you win, sometimes you loose. But knowing how to play the game increases your odds of success.

Ebay is not an evil playground overall..... somewhat more like a walk through Central Park during the day.... it ain't perfect, but there are some common sense things to keep in mind about safety that increase the chances of having a pleasurable experience versus getting mugged or murdered. The eBay community is pretty much a cross-section of society; the majority are on the up-and-up, honest people with different levels of communication skills and different ways of expressing themselves. Then there is the small minority of lesser-beings (a.k.a. scum) that are out to take people across. I wish they could be more easily identified and dispatched with without ceremony, but it is only that way in my dream world. Knock the eBay feedback system if you wish, but it is what's available, and not a bad tool.... if you use it (gee, kind of like casting a vote in an election.... only a small percentage of the U.S. population actually votes, but we all groan and moan). Use feedback as leverage first to nudge the seller into defending his reputation. Then, if need be, whack him with what he deserves. Doing so does open the door for retaliation, but that's life, too, isn't it. Remember, a reputable seller will make amends promptly to avoid negative feedback. A scum bag will not. The feedback system does rid the community of scum bags if, and only if, the community at large reports them. So, simply put, communicate with the sellers and see what you can get accomplished, and take appropriate action if/when necessary. Threats are not necessary, but a suggestion like "I hope we can bring this to a satisfactory resolution so that our feedback ratings are not negatively impacted..." brings the point up loud and clear. That's all relevant to resolving an after-purchase disappointment. Personally, I try to avoid that situation by doing my work up front, pre-purchase. As previously stated in this thread, and it's the best advice, communicate up front, get pictures, get expanded descriptions, get specific answers.... get as close as you can to a virtual "handling" of the merchandise before you even put in a bid. Communication up front will 95% of the time tip the cards of the deadbeat seller. They often avoid the act of direct deception by not responding to inquiries. Lack of pictures (or lousy ones) is also a tip off. If the seller is arrogant or simply ignorant, do yourself a favor and do not bid. Simply put, assume nothing - get answers or back away. Save your self the agony of being let down when you open the box. Too many of us fall for the human nature inclination to get a bargain. I have done it and kicked myself in the arse for not being diligent up front. It has usually been my fault for having made assumptions (hope springs eternal), and it's made an arse out of me. Also, if the seller has less than 99% positive feedback, get cautious, very cautious, and find out why. Review their feedback history in depth to help you decide something about the integrity of the seller. If in doubt, get away from the situation before bidding. If the deal seems too good to be true, it probably is, but make up your mind by intelligently collecting information before throwing money at something.

As far as determining "retail prices" for eBay, keep in mind that is not what an auction is all about. If you want to sell that way, do so in a "store" listing. The eBay experience will fetch you fair money (on average) for what you have if you describe it accurately, get it listed in the correct category, and give lots of good pictures. if you want bidding activity, list your opening bid very low (I do mine almost always at under one dollar). People will involve themselves if a potential for a bargain (low opening bid) exists. If you list it at or just below 'retail' people move on to the next item and never come back. Put a fair buy-it-now price on things, and they will sometimes sell as well.

There has been a lot covered previously in these threads about eBay selling, and it usually ends up with similar advice.

Another note for the sellers... if you have not built up a good feedback rating with a volume of successful sales, people will likely be cautious buying from you. Do not start out on eBay with your more expensive items. Sell some low-end stuff first to get a good reputation going, then move on to the larger ticket stuff. (I most often will not even bid on something if the seller doesn't have over 20 feedbacks with a 100% rating.... found out the hard way that is inviting trouble.)

What I've offered above was done with the spirit of good intent, not to knock anyone here for what they've done. Please take it that way. If I've offended anyone, I apologize (but suggest that you read it again to get the intent).

[Bonzi Lon]

In my experience with ebay and the listings for Z cars is they (ebay) lump the 240, 260 and 280 in the same catagory if the seller DOES NOT make it item specfic, like the coil bracket. I've seen steering wheels, carpet kits, shift knobs, wheel covers, carbs, round & flat, etc (get the drift?) lumped into fitting the 240, 260 and 280 catagory knowing they are VERY different. It is up to the seller (and buyer) to know what model it fits, but will get more lookers if it is listed in all 3. It is still buyer be ware and ask questions. This is from my nube experience from ebay.

Bonzi Lon

[DougN]

With the new feedback system supposedly going in effect on Feb 20th, feedback should get more accurate. Sellers will have the option of leaving a buyer positive or no feedback, they will not be able to leave negative feedback (however, there is nothing to stop them from leaving negative feedback with a positive indicator). Buyers will now be able to leave accurate feedback without fear of negative retaliation from the seller. eBay claims they will also start tossing sellers who get consistant ratings of 1 or 2 on the star scale rating sellers can leave. They also say that those who do not get top marks will be "less visible" on the site.

Overall, sounds like they are trying to address some of the issues and make feedback more meaningful. In the long run, good sellers like Arne should rise to the top of the pile, and get more bids because of it. However, as you can imagine, those who aren't the best sellers are very unhappy about these changes!

[Stickerman]

Sellers will have the option of leaving a buyer positive or no feedback, they will not be able to leave negative feedback

So what do I get to leave the guy that buys stuff and does not pay?

Positive feedback: Did a great job at wasting my time A++++++

[EScanlon]

So what do I get to leave the guy that buys stuff and does not pay?

Positive feedback: Did a great job at wasting my time A++++++

Well, technically, that's not buying. Buying involves giving money in exchange for an item.

So, if he has not paid, you wouldn't have shipped yet. You normally would not ship before receiving the money.

So if you haven't shipped, because he doesn't pay, you report him as a NPB (Non-Paying Bidder) and e-Bay will purportedly do their thing and reimburse / credit you for the bad auction listing. You relist and hopefully sell for more, or go back and give the 2nd place guy a 2nd chance offer.

But on the general theme of e-bay:

Unfortunately, many sellers use their feedback as a coercive tool to ensure you (the buyer) don't post negative to them....the same way buyers do. Sadly, if a seller receives your money, ships you garbage, or ships it in such a way that you receive garbage, you the buyer are screwed. If you try to resolve and it fails and you post negative feedback...properly... you in turn may get retaliated with, by an unscrupulous seller.

Part of the problem with making a "full disclosure" as a seller, is that while you can add text to your heart's content, pictures cost 15¢ EACH after the first one (those prices are as of the last time I listed something). Adding other items such as BIN, Reserve, Q&A etc, all add to the listing $. You get charged an Initial Listing Fee based on your Starting Bid, or Reserve or BIN, then pictures after the first, an extra line in the title description also costs, 10 day listings also cost, to be included in the gallery listings...costs, and when it's all done, you pay another fee based on the final value of the auction. So they nickle and dime you from beginning to end. Then you get charged to receive the money via Paypal.

But as it has been mentioned, it's the best game in town. Yes, there's craig's list...but that takes careful work. Until then....

FWIW

E

[DeesZ]

Yes, eBay does nickel dime sellers to death. Rates keep increasing, but I still cannot find any better place to reach a wide customer base. Most other "wanna be" sites are full of sellers that have been banned from eBay, and it's like fishing in a polluted river. Anyway... a suggestion on pictures for eBay listings (I use lots and lots of them with my descriptions): try http://www.auctiva.com/ as a listing service. You can post as many pictures as you wish at no additional cost from eBay. I've been using their (free) services off and on for a year or so, and am gradually moving all of my listings to launch on eBay from that site. I have been very pleased with what they have to offer, and the price is right. (Also, unlimited image storage is free.)

[Oiluj]

Oiluj,

I do not want to hijack this tread, so please let me know if I am off subject.

How do you make a determination of "80% of store retail" when the parts are no longer available from Nissan or any other established retailer? Doesn't the nature of the auction environment establish the retail price? Once the higher bidder has won the auction, doesn't the non-winning bids establish the remaining market value?

Keith

Keith,

That's a tough question. First, I'm not an expert, so I'm only giving you my personal opinion.

In my post I was referring to currently available items, but NOS items have a market all their own.

Here's my take.

1) For NOS items, (assumng that they are better or distingusiable from reproductions), they should have a reserve price of maybe 20% above the reproduction part price.

2) If there is no difference between the repro parts and NOS, it's probably not any more valuable and eBay buyers will be looking for a "deal". My 80% rule.

3) If it's NLA, the the sky's the limit. Where you set the reserve price is hard to determine. I'd start with asking folks on this board about the value of those items.

That's my 2 cents, and probably not worth that much...

[7277]

up here in the northeast, eBay is about the only source for Z parts. if you're a true 'Z guy' you would already know what is rare, hard to find and NLA. basically it's buyer beware. the only reason a guy puts Datsun 240 260 280 280ZX in the parts' title is mostly because it will return more search results with 'datsun Z in the search function. i wouldn't trust the guys description of an item if it 'fits all models'. You should research the part you need and bid accordingly. just my $0.02