Removing/Installing Clevis Pin in Brake Pedal

[72ZDave]

Ok, I just spent wayyyy too long getting the clevis pin out of the brake pedal to remove my master vac. My back hurts, I was twisted in positions I don't care to be in and have a headache from being upside down too long. Now part of this is because I also removed the clutch master as well, but I'm trying to figure out if there is an easier way to remove and install this clevis pin. I figured one of you guys has done this more times than he cares to and has some good insight. I appreciate the help!

[Nissanman]

About the only thing that will make it a wee bit easier is to use an "R" clip for the clevis pin instead of a conventional split pin.

You can attach a length of wire to the eye end so it can be yanked out of the clevis pin but you still need to get some fingers or a poker up in there to remove/insert the pin from the clevis and pedal.

Other than that, what you see is what you get:surprised

[240znz]

Easiest way is to take the dash and steering column out. It's a bit easier then.

But welcome to the world of tiny Japanese fingers. Have you tried removing the rear heater valve hose clamp yet? That's real fun too.

[gnosez]

Foam pads - one for your back and one for your head. I've also found having someone hand you tools makes it easier (no getting in and out). Long needle nose pliers and a headlamp did it for me.

I built a special screwdriver for the heater cables...

[240ZX]

Ok, I just spent wayyyy too long getting the clevis pin out of the brake pedal to remove my master vac. My back hurts, I was twisted in positions I don't care to be in and have a headache from being upside down too long. Now part of this is because I also removed the clutch master as well, but I'm trying to figure out if there is an easier way to remove and install this clevis pin. I figured one of you guys has done this more times than he cares to and has some good insight. I appreciate the help!

Boy have you conjured up some old memories.......I know exactly what you are talking about!!! I've done mine a couple of times and for sure it is a real pain in the ( )! If only I was 36" tall with itty bitty hands....!

Tom

[72ZDave]

Easiest way is to take the dash and steering column out. It's a bit easier then.

But welcome to the world of tiny Japanese fingers. Have you tried removing the rear heater valve hose clamp yet? That's real fun too.

I haven't got to that yet! I have been getting everything out of the engine bay so when she goes to the paint shop, the 70's brown repaint exterior and original orange engine bay can be sprayed blue! I'm sure I'll get to the heater valve hose clamp soon!

[RogerZ]

take out the seat. build a 3/4" plywood platform to go over bumps in the floor. Pad that if you like. get an led headlight so you can use both hands and don't swallow your maglite that you are holding in your teeth. still ain't fun but much easier on body parts.

[kinfish]

These pins are only supposed to be replaced by Japanese midgets born with abnormally small hands.

As far as most challenging jobs on a Z, this job would rate it as #3 behind the rear spindle pins and replacement of bearings on the rear stub shafts.

The pain inflicted on the body increases exponentially with age. Be happy that you are doing it while you are still young.

[DHA280Z]

I am in this stage 😅, I was looking for a smart trick, someone in high school gave me the nickname “manotas”. So, no hope, at least I got a laugh while reading the tread… 

[SteveJ]

1 hour ago, DHA280Z said:

I am in this stage 😅, I was looking for a smart trick, someone in high school gave me the nickname “manotas”. So, no hope, at least I got a laugh while reading the tread… 

You can see me removing the clevis pin on the clutch pedal in this video.

Here's a video of a bench I made to make it easier to get myself under the dash to reach up to things like the clevis pins.

 Also @Zed Head posted a tip many years back about how to use some thread to get the clevis pin back in. I think this may be it.

And again here.

 

[Yarb]

Went to HF and bought a pair of Doyle 12” needle nose pliers. Worked great!

[DHA280Z]

After several frustrating attempts and hours of back pain, I  figured out a faster and easier way for REINSTALLING the clevis pins for both, brake booster and clutch master cilinder. Inserting the pin might actually takes a couple of minutes for the brake booster and bit longer for the master cilinder but it required a few previous steps that might take 1 hour.

0. Remove driver seat, your back will love it! Is only 4 screws. Is very important that you can see the location where the pin goes. I tried the Braille method… it won’t work!

1. Grind both pins conic… this facilitates guiding and inserting the pin into the holes of pedal lever and the connecting rode to booster and clutch master cilinder (see picture);

2. Keep lose the set of nuts fastening booster and clutch master cilinder (the loser the better but keep the nuts in the bolts). This enables to easily move the connecting roods and make their holes match the holes in the pedals;

3. Add a bit of grease to both pins, this helps sliding the pins while lubricating them for future operation;

4. Proceed to insert the pins, wiggle the pin vs the connecting rod. You will be surprised how easy each pin find its place;

5. Use a long pointed but small vice-grip pliers to reinsert the R clips; the booster clip must be gripped on it round bit flat to the pliers teeth. For the clutch master cilinder, perpendicular to the pliers teeth, be careful don’t press too much otherwise you will deform the clip. For both clips rotate the pins, so that you can see pin-hole. 

6. Retighten clutch master cilinder and booster and the job is done! 

this requires to have some light source, and still, much parsimony needed. This part of rebuilding all that is in the engine bay has been the most difficult! Pfff!