well 'ere we go

[slo929]

well I finally started working on the 240. I have been lurking around this site for quite some time researching what to do with my little Z car. A little history on the car: It is a 1972 240z... For the most part it is unmolested, although not in the best of condition currently. My mother bought it in 1972 from the original owner (he was in the service and was being shipped over to Germany) practically new. It was tangerine and she loved the car. Funny thing, the original owners manual was in the glove when i got it open today along with the original note from the bank she got a loan from and like 21 years of registration slips. somewhere along the line my father had the car painted white (really sloppy job) and ended up with her car in the divorce. I guess a station wagon was more practical for a single mom. He proceded to drive the car for a number of years slowly letting the condition of the car decline. He parked the car in 1993 and i have been hounding him for it since then. He finally gave the car up when his neighbors complained to the city and he told me i could come tow it away. Sadly i had to literally dig the car up before it could be towed to my house.:dead:

I have been trying to decide if it is woth the time and effort for a few months now or if i should just get it running sell it and try to find one in better condition. Anyway the project has begun and i would like to ask a few questions from the board.

Today i have spent cleaning out the engine compartment of all the various debris cluttering it and starting on the list i found here on "awakening" a 240. So my question is for all of the various hoses that need replacing under the hood and throughout the car, where would be my best source for purchaseing these items in your experience? I am located in Albuquerque so local would be great but online works too. Also, i plan on sticking with the original powerplant and a fairly original vibe to the car (maybe a mild custom as time goes by) but i would like to enhance the performance as much as possible without too badly compromiseing the cars feel. do you suggest oem hoses and such or are there comperable but better functioning longer lasting stainless alternatives(or something else)

Sorry for the long post.. thanks in advance!

[Red-Eye]

Alright, another ABQer!

Send me a PM, and we can hook up and check out your 240Z. Maybe I can help out with some parts...Robert

[MikeW]

Welcome. I don't see the word "rust" anywhere in your post. If the car has been in New Mexico the whole time you may be in great shape. If so everything else is easy by comparison.

There have been a number of threads here on dealing with cars that have been sitting a long time. Hopefully you've already seen them. Post some pictures if you can; I'd like to see what digging it up involved.

[slo929]

There is a little rust behind the passenger side door, i think it is from having the dirt up around it. doesnt seem to bad though.

[slo929]

I will try to get some pictures up as soon as i can.

[Carl Beck]

....... So my question is for all of the various hoses that need replacing under the hood and throughout the car, where would be my best source for purchaseing these items in your experience? I am located in Albuquerque so local would be great but online works too......

If you are not going to worry about maintaining a "Stock" appearance, then there is no reason to pay the additional money for OEM replacements in most cases.

Call a few of your local Auto Parts Stores - and find the one that carries metric size fuel and vacuum hoses. You can use US standard sizes, but they will not fit as well as the originally used metric sizes.

I suggest taking a sample of the various sizes from the car to the Parts Store with you.

Rubber Brake lines can also be purchased in the aftermarket - but you have to be careful that they are the correct type -so take an old line with you when you pick them up and compare fittings.

There are a few places where Factory Hoses make sense. The two vacuum lines from the Brake Vacuum Booster to the manifold are a couple of examples. They have several formed 90+ degree curves... (but usually don't need to be replaced). The fuel lines on the bottom of the S.U.'s are another example - they are best replaced with a high grade vinyl tubing if necessary.

Good luck with the car - sounds like it is well worth saving given its history with your family.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[slo929]

Thanks for the info carl... Since i am new to nissans im sure i will have countless other questions for the board. i will keep you all informed as to the progress of the 240!:rambo:

[gogriz91]

There's a local club too that may be able to help you find parts and tech tips too.

[beandip]

I recommend that you check to see if the engine is frozen, rusted, in place, before you spend a bunch of money and time on other stuff. remove the spark plugs and pour some ATF in each cylinder. About a tesp. full in each and let it soak over night. then DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE STARTER ! use a socket on the crank pulley nut and see if the engine will turn. I also would change the oil and filter and pour oil over the cam and valve train components. BEFORE YOU TURN THE ENGINE OVER. No point pumping the crappy old oil through the engine. When changing hoses. Be sure ANY hose that is going to carry Gas is rated for Gas. DO NOT use vacuum hose for fuel. I personally would not use vinyl hose for gas line on the carbs for a couple of reasons . Mostly because of the heat from the exhaust manifold and how it effects plastic. A failure in this hose could be catastrophic. ZTherapy and Nissan have the hoses for the carbs. Ordinary gas line from the parts store is too stiff and will cause the choke/nozzles to stick. When you do turn the engine over manually , watch to make sure the valves don't stick down. If you have a stuck valve it could damage a piston or the valve could become bent. This is the main reason for not using the starter until you are sure all is working as it should.

[slo929]

I checked to see if i could move the pistons right away... they seem to be moving freely. I don'thave a live battery anywhere near the car as I have read on posts from my searchs that that is pretty far down on the list of things to do when restoring a z from hibernation.

The latest developments on my project have been... after getting the pistons moveing freely I began to inspect fuel lines. all of the lines that connect to the fuel tank were cracked and broken(they all looked like the originals) and that includes the fuel filler line. I dropped the tank and it seems to be in pretty good shape no rust or anything. I am sanding down the straps and tank to give them a fresh coat of black while they are out.

I'm sure this is going to sound like a total newby question but how do I get to the expansion tank? I can't seem to find a way into the rear quarter panel that it seems to be housed in. and i want to get to the rest of the rotten hoses so I can properly remove them.(including the fuel filler line that is connected to the tank) In some searchs i have found that some of you capped off the lines to the expansion tank and did away with it. That seems like a great plan for me but I would like to hear a general concensus on the subject. it seems like an unnesscesary part of the car that will only cause headaches down the road. To remove or not to remove? that is the question.

[EScanlon]

On your 72, you'll need to remove the plastic inner panel protecting 1) the tail-lights, 2) the dome light and 3) the one on the Right hand side of the hatch area.

To do this, locate all the plastic rivets holding each panel in place and push IN the center pin. Yes, this will cause them to fall out the back of the rivet. You can usually retrieve them using a ladies nylon knee-high taped to the end of your vacuum cleaner hose, to act as a screen. You'll also pick up bunches of crud back there, but in the long run it will help to get the car clean. If you don't want to worry about the pins, you can sometimes find black Styrene Rod at your local hobby store and cut your own.

Remove the panel carefully, as it will undoubtedly be prone to cracking or breaking. You'll not be able to remove the side panel until you've removed both the tail and dome light panels. Depending on how the hatch weather strip was put on, you may have to temporarily remove that as well.

Once all that plastic is out of the way, you will have direct access to the Evaporation Tank and the Fuel Filler Hose as well as the vent hoses to the evap tank.

Now, since you are in NM, you may want to re-think removing the evap tank.

The evap tank is specifically to recover the gas vapors that warm gasoline is prone to give off. With the temperatures in NM sometimes ranging into the upper 90+ (and higher), you'll literally be PRESSURIZING your fuel system. Since there is a return line from the carburators to the gas tank, and the only other vent is AT the carburators, there is a good possibility of pushing gas past the float bowl.

I'm sure others will chime in, as my knowledge of this is not as extensive as theirs. However, I hope they note of where you live and make their recommendations based on that.

FWIW

E

[slo929]

I appreciate the info I will go out and try to get those plastic panels off without damaging them. All of the plastic on my z seems to be collapsing whenever I touch it so I will cross my fingers on that. I will wait to see what others think of the elimination of the expansion tank issue before I pull the trigger on it. I have a bit of work for today just refinishing the tank and straps so hopefully others will chime in today and tonight.

Thanks again!