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Steve, I'm going to assume you've seen this thread with pictures. No measurements though. Maybe you could PM Marty and/or Jon?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24759&page=3

By the way, when are you planning to update that avatar and sig picture?

post-8596-14150803890955_thumb.jpg

Steve, I'm going to assume you've seen this thread with pictures. No measurements though. Maybe you could PM Marty and/or Jon?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24759&page=3

By the way, when are you planning to update that avatar and sig picture?

Well now that you have provided me with a photo, I can update my avatar..... thanks Arne.

I did see that thread, it looks like just what Ill have to do to my shift lever. I thought if I could come up with specific dimensions I could have Toni ship the lever up to Alaska so I could cut, bend and weld it here where I have the tools/equipment and then install it when I return home.

Install the trans, use a tape measure to find the distance from the pivot to the center of the hole in the console. Make a 90 degree bend there as tight as possible, leave the top of the stick long and then cut to desired length with a cutoff wheel or hacksaw and put a generic shift knob on it that doesn't require threads, a la MOMO. That's what I'd do if I had it to do again. If the bend is too tight I'm sure you could massage it back out a bit in a vise.

If you use a truck shifter then drill a new pivot hole higher than the first. Doesn't need to be a lot higher, just enough to keep the shifter from hitting the trans. Your 83 trans should have plenty of room to drill on the ears.

Install the trans, use a tape measure to find the distance from the pivot to the center of the hole in the console. Make a 90 degree bend there as tight as possible, leave the top of the stick long and then cut to desired length with a cutoff wheel or hacksaw and put a generic shift knob on it that doesn't require threads, a la MOMO. That's what I'd do if I had it to do again. If the bend is too tight I'm sure you could massage it back out a bit in a vise.

If you use a truck shifter then drill a new pivot hole higher than the first. Doesn't need to be a lot higher, just enough to keep the shifter from hitting the trans. Your 83 trans should have plenty of room to drill on the ears.

Thanks, it shouldnt be to hard to modify/fabricate that lever.

I am no expert but I would suggest getting numbers off your transmission to determine the year of the transmission. Im not sure about Z's but other manual transmissions take different lube, depending on what type bearings are used in the transmission. Many later transmissions use very lightweight oil, even automatic transmission fluid in some cases (no pun intended).

  • 3 weeks later...

I remember hearing in the past that the 5 speed swap only required a "little" trimming of the tunnel to fit. By the looks of the shift lever modification. It looks like a "whole lot" of trimming would be required. Just checking before I cut, bend and weld my old shift lever.

The other thing to consider is how far forward the stick will be. If you have to cut the hole for clearance, when you're in 2nd, 3rd, and 5th that shifter is going to be way out there. If you're like me, a normally proportioned 6' tall guy, it will be uncomfortably far forward. If you have gorilla arms that hang down to your knees, it might work OK...

Is the cutting of the front of the shift tunnel that is required mostly with the Nissan 5 speed only, or is it with the T5 also? My question specifically relates to the '72 240Z as that is what I have. From looking at pictures it seems like the opening in the shift tunnel on the '72 is in a different location as on the earlier cars?

Thanks,

Greg

:stupid: Depending on what year 5-speed you have (280Z or 280ZX), it will hit in different locations. On the 280Z 5-speed, you will need to trim only a small part out of the transmission tunnel to make it work. On the 280ZX 5-speed, I had to trim both the tunnel and the center console (had to take out the front section of console, between the fuze cover and the shifter location), to make it work. Also try turning the stick shift around and remounting it. In the old mounting way, it hit the radio in 5th-gear. After turning it around it did not hit the radio any more, but it was close. I also have been told you can heat the handle up and bend it to clear (back away from the radio). But it may hurt the strength of the part and you may have to retemper it to keep it from bending under hard usage. Good Luck, Rich.:)

:stupid: Depending on what year 5-speed you have (280Z or 280ZX), it will hit in different locations. On the 280Z 5-speed, you will need to trim only a small part out of the transmission tunnel to make it work. On the 280ZX 5-speed, I had to trim both the tunnel and the center console (had to take out the front section of console, between the fuze cover and the shifter location), to make it work. Also try turning the stick shift around and remounting it. In the old mounting way, it hit the radio in 5th-gear. After turning it around it did not hit the radio any more, but it was close. I also have been told you can heat the handle up and bend it to clear (back away from the radio). But it may hurt the strength of the part and you may have to retemper it to keep it from bending under hard usage. Good Luck, Rich.:)

I am pretty sure all of the "b" transmissions (280Z and ZX) have the shifter in the same spot. The turbo has the T5, and I'm not positive on that one but I think it is close enough that it also doesn't require any modification. Only the "A" series has the shifter in a different position.

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