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The front carb's float level is still too low. Correctly setting the level can be tricky for the inexperienced. You need to bring it up another 3-4 mm, as a WAG.

so if I bring it up another 3-4mm, the float level will be a lot less than the 12mm as specified in the manual. Does that mean something else is out of sync. ? Although I might try bringing up the float a little more ..

Lets see..

How are you measuring the float level? I suspect that is the problem. I know from personal experience that what seems like 12mm when you have the float cover removed does not always measure correct when it's all re-installed.

To verify my levels, I generally put a clear vinyl tube on the bottom float nipple (instead of the normal tube to the bottom nozzle). Then I remove the power to the coil and crank the engine over a couple of times to fill the float bowl. (If you have an electric pump, just hot wire it for a couple of seconds.) You will now be able to see how high the fuel sits in the float bowl under operating conditions. The fuel should be 23-25 mm below the top of the float bowl when measured this way.

How are you measuring the float level? I suspect that is the problem. I know from personal experience that what seems like 12mm when you have the float cover removed does not always measure correct when it's all re-installed.

To verify my levels, I generally put a clear vinyl tube on the bottom float nipple (instead of the normal tube to the bottom nozzle). Then I remove the power to the coil and crank the engine over a couple of times to fill the float bowl. (If you have an electric pump, just hot wire it for a couple of seconds.) You will now be able to see how high the fuel sits in the float bowl under operating conditions. The fuel should be 23-25 mm below the top of the float bowl when measured this way.

I use a 12 mm bolt. I turn the float bowl cover upside down and place the bolt on the float bowl cover and rest the float on the top. I then adjust the metal thingy so that it barely touches the metal pin (that opens and closes to allow fuel to flow). Does that sound correct?

I think I will try your method .. seems to be more accurate.

I use a 12 mm bolt. I turn the float bowl cover upside down and place the bolt on the float bowl cover and rest the float on the top. I then adjust the metal thingy so that it barely touches the metal pin (that opens and closes to allow fuel to flow). Does that sound correct?

I think I will try your method .. seems to be more accurate.

What you did is the traditional method - that even I (with years of SU experience, both Japanese and British) have problems with. Using the clear tube I was able to get them both correct in short order.

Check carbs are properly synchronized if at Idle there is no flow through front carb then raising piston will have no effect , as they are a constant depression design it needs a negative pressure to allow the atmospheric pressure (greater) to push the fuel out the nozzle as the needle raises.

  • 3 months later...

Sorry fellas. I am still trying to tinker with the carbs. I thought I'd post something as I don't want you to think that all your efforts to help is going to waste.

I read through the page z74z90 recommended. Very helpful. I will update soon.

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