intake/exhaust studs and bolts?

[Richard Oben]

Bought studs and had studs and bolts and had no idea what went where. This forum gave me the answer in a matter of moments.

Thanks to all who take the time and effort to answer questions. Some day I hope to contribute more. Thanks again, Cheers Richard.

[WingZr0]

If 280~Master's picture is the same as in a thread called "THE STATE OF THINGS" then he's correct. Had the same thong on my L28 / N42 head and found the pattern for all the bolts and posted some pretty good close up pics you may find helpful there. Ordered NOS studs from Redat on Ebay and it came with short studs, long studs, and bolts. Took us a minute but we all figured out what went where there too.

Edited August 27, 2009 by WingZr0

[Careless]

Resurrecting this thread from the dead, but I think the photo posted earlier is not that clear, or not too precise according to the L24, so I made a diagram of what I think should be the proper bolt pattern. This method makes sense, EVEN THOUGH the diagram in the fiche/e-fast are showing the incorrect location of where I situated bolt #14 on the diagram. Their pattern doesn't make sense, especially since it says (MANIFOLD YOKE) for type #14 studs that they show along the top... which is reserved for the fat washers (which is called a YOKE/YOKE SPACER in Nissan speak).

 

It does not make sense for #14 to be a stud with a yoke, it should be at the top of the carb where it only holds the one ear of the carb itself, and not the carb and manifold together.

 

I present my pattern below. numbers check out according to datsun specified quantities, too (except for 13, which doesn't make sense)

 

 

Seemed like a much needed diagram because I couldn't find anything that made sense, so I made one!

Edited November 11, 2015 by Careless

[Namerow]

I'm still confused. 

 

For the '013' studs, I assume that these are for the outermost holes at the front and rear of the head, each of which also serve to locate an engine sling/hoist plate (this agrees with the fiche/e-fast, which says 2 required). 

 

I agree with the count of 6 required for the '014' studs. 

 

However, for the '012' studs, I count a total of 6 + 3 = 9 required (fiche/e-fast says 10 required). 

 

So, which is correct:

 

9 x '012'   +  2 x '013'  ?

 

or,

 

10 x '012'   +   1 x '013' ?

 

Or is it something else?

[Careless]

Key No. 14: SHARE an Intake/Exhaust mounting Ear (Total of 6)

There are LONG studs to accommodate the Key No. 35 YOKE washer.

 

Key No. 13: ONLY for the stud that holes the rear most exhaust ear and the engine slinger (Total of 1, NOT 2 as indicated in the diagram)

This is a LONG stud to accommodate the Rear Engine Slinger.

 

Key No. 12: EVERY other stud (Total of 10)

These are SHORT studs to accommodate a standard washer.

 

Key No. 35: YOKE for all studs of Key No. 14 (Total of 6)

These are THICK washers (i.e - YOKE).

 

The confusion from the diagram is the indication of 2 of the Key No. 13 studs, whereas there is really only 1 from what I can find. I tried to locate the other Type 13 in the diagram, but it's not anywhere in the Fiche/E-Fast software for that specific diagram. It can be somewhere else on the page, but in this instance, it is not.

 

It is also my understanding that a Key No. 14 stud can be used in place of Key No. 13 placement, as they are no longer available from the dealer.

 

The sum of all the studs is 17, not 18 as indicated by the diagram proposed by Datsun/Nissan.

 

I've updated the image above in my previous post to reflect the clarification.

Edited November 10, 2015 by Careless

[Namerow]

Puzzle solved (unless that extra '012' stud shows up in another location on the engine!). 

 

Or maybe Nissan already knew that the rear stud was going to break on 90% of the L-6 engines they produced and decided to equip each car with a spare .

[Careless]

Puzzle solved (unless that extra '012' stud shows up in another location on the engine!). 

 

Or maybe Nissan already knew that the rear stud was going to break on 90% of the L-6 engines they produced and decided to equip each car with a spare .

 

'013' !!! the '012' studs are all accounted for 

 

I would also like to mention that the longer studs that are for '014' with the yoke spacers are of a different metallurgy. They seem to be stainless fasteners.

In any case, ever single one I've removed from a rebuilt motor has always require extra force to get it to budge with the double-nut & double-wrench technique. 

 

Do not, under any circumstance, thread them in tightly. You MAY have to use a wrench to get them to bottom out, but that's if you don't clean the threads on the head before trying to thread them in. They should only bottom out on the head, and that's it.

Edited November 11, 2015 by Careless

[gundee]

'013' !!! the '012' studs are all accounted for 

 

I would also like to mention that the longer studs that are for '014' with the yoke spacers are of a different metallurgy. They seem to be stainless fasteners.

In any case, ever single one I've removed from a rebuilt motor has always require extra force to get it to budge with the double-nut & double-wrench technique. 

 

Do not, under any circumstance, thread them in tightly. You MAY have to use a wrench to get them to bottom out, but that's if you don't clean the threads on the head before trying to thread them in. They should only bottom out on the head, and that's it.

 

Pick up a 8mm stud removal socket.

You will wonder how you ever got by without it.

[Careless]

I tried to find those a while back. I saw a set that was much too expensive so I wanted to buy the individuals locally. In hind-sight, if I had ordered them on amazon I would be able to use them right now. doh!!!

 

The ones I COULD locate were the knurled cam-wheel type ones that require too much room to use most of the time.

Thanks for reminding me of these ones, I'll have to put them on the tools list! For now, I only have 6 left- so I'll be ok.

[Careless]

UPDATE: 

For what it's worth... Type No. 13 (LONGEST) is no longer available from Nissan.

You can use a Type No. 14 (LONG). It seems as though the fuel rail, washer, lock washer, and engine slinger WILL fit and when torqued down to crush the gasket, it will have juuuuuuust a smidge of the end of the stud poking out. Usually when tightened, a stud has 1 to 2 threads poking out- in this case it is about 0.5-1 threads.

 

I think that's ok and suitable for use in place of the Type No. 13 which is NLA.

[Careless]

A full kit is available from MSA that includes everything you need to assemble the intake/exhaust properly, with the exception that the nuts are not black like OE ones (or newer OE ones for that matter, not sure what the old ones looked like). It's a small detail. 

It's reasonably priced, and contains 1 x Type No. 13 Medium Length stud, which I have replaced for Type No. 14 as it's only 1 or 2mm longer.

 

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic01a/15-8082

 

So anyone looking to redo theirs to factory spec need not look any further!

[siteunseen]

Newer number for those yoke washers, 14037-N3600.  I ordered 6 from local dealership using the 14037-32200 number and it kicked it back saying "canceled".  Found the newer number and will be here Friday. 

 

Thanks for posting that chart, it helped me out a lot.

Cliff