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I assume that you're aware that the electric fuel pump only comes on when the engine is running. Right? When mine stopped one day, I did the easiest thing first and it worked. I replaced the fuse. My 260 is notorious for what appears to be failing electrical when in fact it's the fuse. Remember just because a fuse looks good doesn't mean it actually is. Try swapping out with a fuse that you know works, it's easy and it's a really common solution.

  • 8 years later...
On 4/12/2009 at 9:44 PM, 260zCaliCar said:

I assume that you're aware that the electric fuel pump only comes on when the engine is running. Right? When mine stopped one day, I did the easiest thing first and it worked. I replaced the fuse. My 260 is notorious for what appears to be failing electrical when in fact it's the fuse. Remember just because a fuse looks good doesn't mean it actually is. Try swapping out with a fuse that you know works, it's easy and it's a really common solution.

Witch fuse should I look for?Where is it at?

 

40 minutes ago, borini63 said:

Witch fuse should I look for?Where is it at?

 

I don't know where he found a fuse for the fuel pump.

The stock wiring goes like this: The pump is powered off of the black/white wire coming off of the ignition switch. It goes to Fuel Pump Relay #1 (aka Electric Pump Cut Relay #1). That relay's coil is energized by the yellow wire that goes between the alternator and the voltage regulator. (From the alternator, one branch goes to the VR while the other goes to the relay). When the coil is energized, the fuel pump power goes to the green/white wire over to Fuel Pump Relay #2 (aka Electric Pump Cut Relay #2). That relay is off unless the engine is starting. The green/white wire goes through a normally closed contact to another black/white wire to the fuel pump.

On 8/28/2017 at 8:20 PM, SteveJ said:

I don't know where he found a fuse for the fuel pump.

The stock wiring goes like this: The pump is powered off of the black/white wire coming off of the ignition switch. It goes to Fuel Pump Relay #1 (aka Electric Pump Cut Relay #1). That relay's coil is energized by the yellow wire that goes between the alternator and the voltage regulator. (From the alternator, one branch goes to the VR while the other goes to the relay). When the coil is energized, the fuel pump power goes to the green/white wire over to Fuel Pump Relay #2 (aka Electric Pump Cut Relay #2). That relay is off unless the engine is starting. The green/white wire goes through a normally closed contact to another black/white wire to the fuel pump.

Thank yo Steve for clearing the issue..... I was wondering too...... I will check over what you mentioned..... I hope Not to need one of these relays, kinda hard to come by.

So the main source of power comes from the Alternator?I hope I have a good Alt........ need to check and go through all the wiring+relays.

Thank you again.

Please allow me to clarify.

The power for the pump is coming off the ignition switch.

The power for the coil on Relay #1 is coming off the regulator. It's just enough voltage to energize the coil and close the contacts for the fuel pump power.

If the relays are bad, you can adapt standard automotive relays to work. For Relay #1, you would use the 30 and 87 pins. For Relay #2, you would use the 30 and 87a pins.

This may help you understand how to adapt a newer relay to replace the factory relay: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/22/relays-simplified/

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