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I'm not sure the best grind to get, but make sure to get a solid cam, not one that is drilled, and make sure to have a cam oiler installed on the cam towers. The drilled cams are not as stout and can twist at high rpms which results in the rear valves getting a bit out of time.

I'm not sure how much of an effect this really has, but my engine builder is pretty adamant about this.

Talk to a customer service representative when you choose your cam. Tell them what you are doing, how you will be driving etc, and they can pick the best cam profile for your use.

I would recommend a cam that gives you peak power in the 2500- 6000rpm range or perhaps a little less than 6000. Say 2000- 5000 which is where you will be doing most of your driving.

Remember, if you go too far with the cam, you will need to modify the ignition and carbs to be able to use the cam. Also, some cam profiles will leave you a little short on vaccuum, so beware of trying to go too wild.

Also, do get a set of new lash pads with it. The old ones have been worn to fit your old cams lobes and will be short lived on a new cam. Not to mention the excessive wear on the new cam. New cam, new lash pads, and anything else that may be suspect.....

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