Clogged Fuel Pick Up

[Mark Schue]

My 72 Z sat for a few months and I now it won't keep running. I have traced it to a fuel issue. It will run until the float bowls empty. Have installed new fuel filter and fuel pump (stock mechanical). I can add fuel to float bowls and it will run till they are empty.

My next test is to disconnect the inlet line to the fuel pump and pump from a can of fresh gas. I fully assume that will work and that the problem is a clogged fuel pick up.

Can anyone provide tips, dos and don'ts for dropping the fuel tank? As straight forward as it looks?

Anything unsual about the fuel tanks internal fuel pickup? Is it just a hole and exit tube or is there some sort of internal screen/filter?

Edited May 29, 2009 by Mark Schue

[JonnyRock]

Can anyone answer this? I took my car out today and it drove for about 5 minutes, then sputtered to a stop.

I checked the ignition coil, points, and condenser and everything seems fine. I pulled the fuel line to the first carb and cranked the motor, and got nothing out of the line. The fuel pump is mechanical and less than a year old. Checked the filter and it isn't clogged. Tried blowing back through the fuel line that runs to the filter and couldn't get any air through (using my lungs).

I believe this means my sender is clogged. Before I got this car 2 years ago it sat largely unused for 10+ years and I know that there could be a bunch of gunk in the tank. The car will run for a second when starter fluid is used, so it must be a fuel delivery problem.

My plan is to get a hold of an air compressor and try and blow out the line back to the tank. Then I'll see about dropping the tank. There is roughly 4 gallons left in there.

Can anyone give me some advice on pulling the tank and cleaning it? I know POR-15 makes a product and you can also get them cleaned (I assume at a radiator shop)?

[Mike B]

Can anyone give me some advice on pulling the tank and cleaning it? I know POR-15 makes a product and you can also get them cleaned (I assume at a radiator shop)?

There is a lot of information on this site about dropping, cleaning and coating a gas tank. Here is one thread I found with a quick search that outlines how to drop it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34033. Here is another about treating it with POR15 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034

-Mike

[Jeff G 78]

As long as the fuel tank hanger strap hardware is in good shape, dropping a tank isn't too bad. Remove the interior panel to get to the filler neck clamps. Once you drop the tank, remove the fuel sending unit and shine a flashlight into the filler neck and look for debris on the tank bottom. If you see rust or sludge, you get to have fun and restore the tank.

I just did the tank in my LeMons 260Z that had been sitting in a barn for 15+ years. The tank was NASTY, but it turned out great. I used the POR-15 kit. Cleaning a tank properly takes about 7-10 days total and is a lot of back breaking, stinky, dirty work, but the results will be worth it. I can post my before and after pics if you'd like.

[JonnyRock]

So I ordered the POR-15 fuel tank kit and a new sending unit from MSA ($140), dropped the fuel tank and looked inside... SPOTLESS! Looks like a new friggin' tank! and the fuel lines are clear.

So now I'm gonna go pick up an electric pump and see what else it could be.

Any ideas?

[hls30.com]

Check the rest of your lines then carb bowls. Disconnect the fuel hose from the carbs and (extend it is necessary) run it into a suitable container to check the flow. If you have good flow, then check the carb bowls.

WIll

[=Enigma=]

Remove the interior panel to get to the filler neck clamps.

Note that it is not necessary to remove the interior panel on the 240Z to get to the filler neck clamp. This can be easily accessed by removing a small plate at the rear of the wheel well, assuming this plate is still in place.

[Jeff G 78]

Hmmm, yeah. I guess you are correct. Thanks for the correction.