240z Choke Cable Sticking

[26th-Z]

Technical Service Bulletin TS70-37, dated October 1970 shows the stranded wire replaced by solid wire begining with HLS30-01831. The part number referenced is 18410-E4502. I don't think anyone is going to find stranded wire cables new.

[Cessna]

Engine - section 16 - Accelerator pedal, Choke & throttle control

The parts manual shows lots of different part numbers for the choke assemblies, with overlapping date ranges. In addition to the ones I gave you before there are 7 others for the L24 shown, including 18410-E4502 for automatics from 2/70 to 2/71 and 18410-E8803 for manuals from 6/70 to 7/73.

I think the only difference in 240Z choke cables is that the earliest cables were made of wire strands and the later ones were one solid cable. The later ones hold up better.

-Mike

Where is the best place to purchase the replacement cables?

Thxs in advance

Joel

[Daniel]

Remove the cable(s) from the chokes. Remove your ash tray and put a cloth under the choke pull. Use a coat hanger or what ever to attach the choke cables to the secure/safety latch on the hood . Make sure the cables are higher than the choke pull.Place about 3 inches of drinking straw or whatever tube comes close to a seal around the outer choke cable only using about 1 inch. Wrap that area with duct tape. Fill the 2inch with the lube of your choice. Walk away. Next time you visit your project the cloth under the pull will be nasty. Your cable will be smooth.Not doing this is what caused the pull to break loose from the console.

[70 Cam Guy]

Remove the cable(s) from the chokes. Remove your ash tray and put a cloth under the choke pull. Use a coat hanger or what ever to attach the choke cables to the secure/safety latch on the hood . Make sure the cables are higher than the choke pull.Place about 3 inches of drinking straw or whatever tube comes close to a seal around the outer choke cable only using about 1 inch. Wrap that area with duct tape. Fill the 2inch with the lube of your choice. Walk away. Next time you visit your project the cloth under the pull will be nasty. Your cable will be smooth.Not doing this is what caused the pull to break loose from the console.

That's a great idea if you don't want to lift up the center console

[esprist]

Where is the best place to purchase the replacement cables?

Thxs in advance

Joel

I have NOS cable assembly with knob and grommet.......

It is for 1971 1/2-1973

Esprist

[prilofx]

just got my choke working. We took out the console since it was broken into three pieces anyway, and then removed the duct tape that was wrapped around the lower part of the lever, sprayed the crap out of the cable and the lever with WD40 and made sure it was working at the carbs.. yay! You gotta hold the assembly in your hand and work the lever, but at least it works now.

[Bonzi Lon]

There is a thread on how to make a flat plate that beefs up the holding ability of the choke assembly to the console. It will depend on what is left of the underside, the plastic bosses strip out. Find a good console and make the plate. Simple, sturdy, works great, I knew I should of taken photos. :stupid:

Bonzi Lon

[bpilati]

The 70-71 cables were different from the 72-73 cables in the console area. The early Z choke lever assemblies were beefy and reliable. The later Z had to move the levers to the side due to a transmission change. These assemblies tended to put too much pressure on the plastic console eventually cracking them. No, you cannot buy any old Z choke cable assembly. As someone stated people came up with ways to beef up the later Z console mounting location.

When I purchased my replacement at the dealer (long ago) it included the throttle lever cable assembly used in the 70 240Z, and later blanked off for the 71 model. This is the way they sold it, and might be the same today, don't know.

[240260280z]

[comhosa]

I have done 2 very hard choke cable when pull. Very easy trick to lube. Disconnect cable from carbs, then get a small fuel hose that go over the cable. The fuel hose must be small diameter so it gives a tight fit over cable, get a lubricator with spray tube and spray away. Trick takes less than 5 minutes. No need to get inside the center console.

[bacarl]

Remove the cable(s) from the chokes. Remove your ash tray and put a cloth under the choke pull. Use a coat hanger or what ever to attach the choke cables to the secure/safety latch on the hood . Make sure the cables are higher than the choke pull.Place about 3 inches of drinking straw or whatever tube comes close to a seal around the outer choke cable only using about 1 inch. Wrap that area with duct tape. Fill the 2inch with the lube of your choice. Walk away. Next time you visit your project the cloth under the pull will be nasty. Your cable will be smooth.Not doing this is what caused the pull to break loose from the console.

Bringing back an old thread - is there a preferred type of lubricant to use for this method? For instance, would a penetrating oil break up and get past the gunk more effectively than a silicone spray lube?

[beermanpete]

I get good results with 85W-90 gear oil.

You can use a cable luber like this one:

Available at most motorcycle shops and perhaps bicycle shops. To get the cable freed up use something thin like WD40. Once you get it moving freely put in white lithium grease. It is a good idea to expose both ends of the cable to catch the oil that drains out the low end.