What size Thread/Diameter for Engine Stand mounting? - F54

[KDMatt]

I'm trying to make arrangements to pick up a complete Turbo engine from an '83 ZX.

My intention, once I get this new 'toy' home, is to put it up on an engine stand, however I can't seem to find any truly definitive threads (forgive the pun) about what the correct diameter and thread type ought to be.

I've seen it suggested that one should use headbolts, but I don't exactly have that option ATM -- nor do I even know, again, what the diameter and pitch of those bolts are.

I've gone to the hardware store and pre-emptively purchased some 10mm 1.25 (fine thread?) long flange bolts, grade 8.8 ... Is this what I need?

I recall finding a thread where a gentleman had also purchased that diameter and thread and reported back that it wasn't working for him.

Some help would be great, thanks.

[Darrel]

If you want to match the bolts, take one out of your 280z, they are easy enough to get to from the top.

[Zs-ondabrain]

I think it's an M10 1.25 x 70mm?

[Arne]

Definitely 10mm, and between 60-70 mm long. I can't remember if they are 1.25 or 1.5 pitch.

[Walter Moore]

This question gets asked often enough that I decided to check the bolts I used so there would be a definitive answer we could search in the future.

You need 10mm x 1.5 pitch 80mm length bolts, and they must be hardened, strength class (grade) 10.9 or 12.9. You might get by with 75mm depending upon your particular engine stand, but 80's will work if you use hardened washers to shim them.

Class 12.9 bolts are generally only available as socket head cap screws, so for this purpose the 10.9 bolts are better. Do not use stainless steel, 8.8, or lower strength bolts because the engine is too heavy and they will eventually snap.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Weird, I've got grade 5 or 6 holding my current motor up on the stand and used the same bolts to hold my other 2.8 liter on the same stand for over 1.5 years. And that's with me torquing on the motor, hitting it on accident a few times and it being moved around the shop, All that was with 5 or 6 grade bolts.

Nothing wrong with overkill but the 8's should more than suffice.

Dave

[Walter Moore]

Metric bolt "grade" designations are different. A metric 8.8 is equivalent to an SAE grade 5. The 10.9 designation is equivalent to a grade 8. There is no SAE equal for the 12.9 class.

Generally the weakest metric bolts you can buy in the U.S. are class 8.8, but sometimes we get class 4.8 bolts on assemblies from our office in Japan.

Several years ago there was someone who posted a thread about his engine breaking loose from the engine stand while transporting it somewhere. I don't recall the details, but if the engine stand sees a strong shock loading there is a risk the engine will end up on the floor. Why take that risk after spending the money to rebuild the engine?

[Zs-ondabrain]

Good point and Info. Thanks Walter. Hate to this end up on the floor unless I lower it with a hoist.

Dave

[KDMatt]

Beautiful.

Thank you gentleman for the succint, clear information (as always).

Dave... not fair, now I'm just drooling

[mlc240z]

yea, we hate Dave.

now, that really looks great!

[Zs-ondabrain]

It'll look better with a full set of 40DCOE's all polished and installed IN THE CAR.