aluminum radiator question

[nahurry]

what do you guys think about this radiator?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMINUM-3-ROW-RADIATOR-70-71-72-73-DATSUN-NISSAN-240z_W0QQitemZ200424566675QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2eaa3c2f93 i just purchased the a/c system from courtesy nissan for my 73 240z with the 2.4 engine and need something to keep it all cool. has anyone used one like this?

[manny1973]

I installed in my 72Z last summer, perfect fit and works great.

[ezzzzzzz]

One point I will make in regards to an aluminum radiator...isolate it! I mean use rubber and plastic sleeves on the bolts to completely isolate the aluminum from the rad support panel. If not, you are essentially adding a really big anode to your car. Over time (relatively short) that radiator will deteriorate to a sieve. It took two failed radiators in my land rover projects before I realized the problem.

[70 Cam Guy]

One point I will make in regards to an aluminum radiator...isolate it! I mean use rubber and plastic sleeves on the bolts to completely isolate the aluminum from the rad support panel. If not, you are essentially adding a really big anode to your car. Over time (relatively short) that radiator will deteriorate to a sieve. It took two failed radiators in my land rover projects before I realized the problem.

Do you think a ground strap on the radiator might have helped here? I know on newer cars that suffer from electrolysis in the cooling system and heater core, that is something that is used (probably along with fresh coolant).

I've also searched about these Champion radiators with not much luck. Thanks for posting!

[Maples71240Z]

If there is electrolysis why are the Z's aluminum head not affected?

[WingZr0]

Cam Guy I have that Champion radiator and its freaking awesome! Got the chrome electric fan both from MSA. Set the thermostat on the fan to 160 degres and the temp gauge stays pegged at dead center or cooler, all the way to the left on freeways and never gets hot from all day city driving . Mines is bolted on with no isolation and only 1274 miles on it, how long does it take for this electrolysis to happen and why does it occure?

Edited January 14, 2010 by WingZr0

[zcar70]

If there is electrolysis why are the Z's aluminum head not affected?

Good question. The truth is that electrolysis DOES happen between the cylinder head and the block over time IF there is contact. A good quality gasket (modern gaskets are SO much better than the originals) will prevent the process from initiating, but if there is a compromise of the gasket it does happen. Hopefully by then you would replace the gasket anyway.

[Zs-ondabrain]

If there is electrolysis why are the Z's aluminum head not affected?

The Z's heads ARE affected, some more than others. Bad grounds are a major cause of this. My E31 went to crap because the PO had bad wiring. After replacing the head, I made a custom ground wire kit and stopped the problem.

If you ever tear off the water inlet from the head, look inside the head and you'll likely see deteriation due to electrolisis. I had to replace the front cover as well, after I sprung a leak from the backside of the cover. It was spraying a steady stream of coolant into the oil pan, I thought I had a bad head gasket. Replaced the head and the head gasket, only to find the problem was still there. It was the front cover.

Dave

[torker]

This is not meant to be a smartass response but i think the term should be galvanic corrosion. It is along the same lines though. It is the reaction between dissimilar metals, one being an anode-alum.- and the other-steel- being the cathode. Anodic metals will corrode faster. This will actually create an electric current similar to what is happening in a battery. Bonding the two metals directly seems like it would speed the process. That is why isolating the radiator is probably the best approach and keeping the coolant fresh. Old coolant gets acidic speeding the process.

I found an interesting read on wiki.

A "lasagna cell" or "lasagna battery" is accidentally produced when salty food such as lasagna is stored in a steel baking pan and is covered with aluminium foil. After a few hours the foil develops small holes where it touches the lasagna, and the food surface becomes covered with small spots composed of corroded aluminium.

This metal corrosion occurs because whenever two metal sheets composed of differing metals are placed into contact with an electrolyte, the two metals act as electrodes, and an electrolytic cell or battery is formed. In this case, the two terminals of the battery are connected together. Because the aluminium foil touches the steel, this battery is shorted out, a significant electric current appears, and rapid chemical reactions take place on the surfaces of the metal in contact with the electrolyte. In a steel/salt/aluminium battery, the aluminium is higher on the electrochemical series, so the solid aluminium turns into dissolved ions and the metal experiences galvanic corrosion.

[70 Cam Guy]

This is not meant to be a smartass response but i think the term should be galvanic corrosion.

No worries, better to have the correct term. It's all good information and yes, not changing the coolant at good intervals can contribute to the problem

[Bruskiz]

Those that have bought this aluminum radiator, did you go 2 or 3 rows on the core and could you post some dimensions on how thick the core measures.

Thanks,

- Mike

[fiveleaf]

I know this one is $100 more, but it is nearly a bolt-on to the z, and comes with hoses, and the rubber mounts that are mentioned above.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Radiator_Kit.html

Alternatively, just the bracket mounting kit (with the mentioned rubber) is available for $85. You need to drill two holes and it bolts in.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT-Radiator-Mount.html

The hardest part is figuring out which way is up, or in my case, removing the old radiator.

Edited January 22, 2010 by fiveleaf