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That 'input' will differ depending on who you talk to. I owned a 1978 280Z for 12 years and a 1979 810 for 6 years. Both are EFI and both were pretty much trouble free for the entire time I owned them. I can (and have) deal with carbs or EFI. I don't think that EFI is easier or better than carbs or vice versa. Like they say, it is what it is. My take is if it has carbs, leave them on it and if it has EFI, leave that on it. Rather than doing a conversion from one to the other.

i understand that opinions will differ, but i am willing to listen to whatever people on this forum have to say regarding the matter. thanks for sharing yours.

You'll get plenty of opinions on carbs versus injection. Both have merits and both have issues.

My first Datsun was a 1200 (B110). I'm not wanting to kill your dream but the 1200 is an ideal first car as it is simple to work on and they can the thrashed all day long without worry plus parts aren't expensive. You'd be shocked as to how easy they are to tweak into a great handling car. Power is down but you may not be ready for an injected L28, nor are you ready for the hole it will burn in your wallet everytime you need to fill up.

Have you thought about a Datsun 1600 (510)? Half way between the 1200 and the 240z. The 510's and early zeds run the L gata engine. The 510 uses the L16 and the 240z the L24, 260z the L26 and the 280z/zx the L28. So working on a L16 is much like working on a zed engine but it has two less cylinders. Handling is very good.

Save as much money as you can to buy the best example zed you can find.....or buy a smaller car to cut your teeth on.

That's my Datsun opinion.

James

never really thought about getting a 510 and i have never even heard of a 1200, but i will definitely look into them. thanks for bringing up the issue of gas costs for a 280zx, never really thought about that.

Stop! Put the Craigslist down and walk away from the keyboard.

The first thing you should do is find a local Z car club and attend a couple meetings and get togethers. You will need some local support to help pick out the car and with any problems that might come up. Start cultivating that support by becoming a member of the local Z club.

The second thing you should do is download the FSM for the cars you're thinking about. Read and see how much you understand and feel capable of doing.

Third, price car insurance for the car. That might just kill the whole deal for right now.

Good luck!

thanks, ill keep your advice in mind when i actually start shopping for a car.


I'd stay with a 280Z opposed to a 280ZX, less complicated and confusing engine bay. The ZX has too many wires and extra pipping IMO trying to met the ever increasing smog laws which got stricter each year. A good Z shouldn't cost more than 4 grand for starters. Out here in Cali you can find one as low as 2 grand only cause we have way more of them. Search a thread called "Fuel Injection Port Blocked Solid", thats what happened to my car. Like I said booty crack wrong. Any engine builder would have known not to do that. That one problem basically killt the whole car. Had I known what I know now, from working on my Z myself and there by learning all my mechanical skills on it, I would have spotted the problem to begin with before I bought it for $2,000. But that was an EXTREMLY RARE worse case scenario. About only time that has happened in fact.

Edited by WingZr0

Parts are cheap on a Z. Biggest mechanical things you'll find is a newly rebuilt engine, if you need it, is 2 to $3,500 with some slight performance mods :) , new trans and diff about $200 each and a whole new performance clutch for 350 to $600. I only need a ten to twenty dollar input shaft seal to fix my Trans so ain't like it blew up. Not trying to scare you, we just want you to be aware ;). Z's are SUPER FUN to drive, you'll find the seats are the most comfortable you'll ever sit in and you'll pull more Chics at Starbucks than you will mochas LOL .

Edited by WingZr0

All of my wrenching experience came from a 1 year High School automotive class. We (6) took a tired old 283 Chevy and put a complet overhaul on it. It sure helped to understand how all those rotating parts are kept from hitting each other. :)

At 14, in April of 1970, a new orange Datsun 240Z smoked its tires across the gas station lot I was working at. I was impressed! That was the first import car I'd ever seen do that. Seven years later I bought Bonzi.

Bonzi Lon

My first car was a 1986 Honda Civic DX that I bought from my parents for $800. It got me to and from school, and to work. It had 140K miles when I got it, and it was usually unreliable. Lots of little rituals I had to perform every morning to make sure it didnt stall at a light (those tiny 1.5L were carb'd back then and finicky).

So youre in highschool and you want your first car as a Z...I sold my 260Z to a kid in highschool about 2 years ago. His father wanted to do a father-son build so I was ok with selling it to him. It ran reliably and was mechanically sound...but it had serious rust issues but they assured me they could weld and had the ability and know-how to fix its body issues. I also confirmed that the kid had a job, and that he was committed to investing in my 260Z. I was not willing to sell it to just anyone, it had to go to a good home.

Take John Coffey's advice. Sit in on a couple of local Z club meetings. Find a member that is willing to help you with picking out a solid car, or you might even find a member that has one for sale for the right price. Although I think a lot of people on this forum are truly passionate about Z's, not every Z owner is on this forum. Not everyone that has a Z for sale is going to disclose everything when trying to sell or make sure that the buyer and the car is a good match.

Trying to restore a Z is NOT cheap. Trying to fix a Z is usually not cheap (unless you get really creative and are a good junkyard hunter). If you really want it as your first car, then go for it. Just be prepared that with your budget of 2-3K, in Georgia you will most likely find either:

A) A decent running Z with considerable rust or body damage

B) A relatively clean Z that doesnt run.

C) A cosmetically decent Z that runs rough, but has more issues than you realize (both mechanical and body)

If you want to learn how to work on cars, the S30 is one of the easiest cars to learn on. Everything is relatively straight forward, but sometimes trying to diagnose a sick Z is a collective community effort (hence this forum). If you dont really want to learn how to work on a car, and are unwilling to do work yourself, I dont think the Z is for you.

Good luck with your hunt, I hope you find a car that calls your name.

Edited by TBone028
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