body side molding

[axz351]

My '73 has body side molding running from the fender to the rear quarter. The car is white and the molding is red. I see pictures of 240z's with, and without the molding.

Is this molding correct?

Was it on all cars?

Was it an option?

Thanks

[Gary in NJ]

I believe it was a dealer add on. Period correct, but detracts from the lines of the vehicle.

[Oiluj]

Need a picture to see if it's the right molding.

FWIW, I like the look of the side period correct, rivet-on molding, and it provides some protection from parking lot dings.

However, it's a personal preferrence kind of thing. Some like it, some don't. What's nice is that the vinyl inserts are available in different colors.

Here's a link to the correct style molding.

http://www.customautotrim.com/products/moldings/rivet.htm

[axz351]

thanks.

it has been on the car a long time.

if not riveted I may remove

picture attached

[Oiluj]

That looks like "stick-on" molding, not the period correct "rivet-on" molding.

Just get some adhesive remover from the local autoparts store and it should come off. Just take it slow so you don't damage the paint during removal.

Be aware that it may be covering holes from pevious rivet-on molding that was removed, and the paint underneath the molding will look different, as it has not aged/faded with the exposed paint.

[Kathy & Rick]

That looks like "stick-on" molding, not the period correct "rivet-on" molding.

Just get some adhesive remover from the local autoparts store and it should come off. Just take it slow so you don't damage the paint during removal.

Auto body repairmen who have been around for awhile keep a common

hair dryer in their tool stash.

The hair dryer puts out enough heat to soften the stickum on mouldings,

decals, and that type of thing, without damaging the paint, chrome, or

whatever finish the stickum is adhered to.

Just take it nice and easy, pulling gently on the item being removed as

you move the hair dryer along slowly. Sort of like welding in reverse.

FWIW,................All Z Best,......................Kathy & Rick

[EScanlon]

In another thread, Arne suggested Dental Floss to remove those items that used the 2sided adhesive foam tape.

FWIW

E

[240260280z]

In another thread, Arne suggested Dental Floss to remove those items that used the 2sided adhesive foam tape.

FWIW

E

What exactly did Arne eat? ( I could not help myself...doing some research and just read this)

[geezer]

What exactly did Arne eat? ( I could not help myself...doing some research and just read this)

, Good one!

Since this thread has arisen, I will share with everyone what I use to remove 3M or other foam adhesive strips. I find that PBBlaster will totaly disolve this material when liberally applied and allowed to do its magic. No scraping or difficult cleanup, just wipe off with a rag or paper towel. It doesn't seem to effect the paint finish but I do rinse with warm soapy water just as a precaution.

[240260280z]

For the interest of this thread, here is a great link and some pics I nabbed just in case the blog goes down: http://dailydatsun.com/tag/side-molding/

[EScanlon]

That looks like "stick-on" molding, not the period correct "rivet-on" molding.

Just get some adhesive remover from the local autoparts store and it should come off. Just take it slow so you don't damage the paint during removal.

Be aware that it may be covering holes from pevious rivet-on molding that was removed, and the paint underneath the molding will look different, as it has not aged/faded with the exposed paint.

In re-reading this older thread, I noted this post and find I disagree.

The Stick-On style of body molding that the OP shows in the picture, as I recall, was available in the 70's, but it was more expensive than the aluminum / vinyl setup, or at least that's what I recall. Additionally, it took more effort to get it right, not only did it need something to hold it straight as you applied it, the ends of the molding had to be carefully cut and shaped in order to create the pointed and rounded ends.

And as far as filling the holes from previous rivet jobs, the shop I worked at had a slick method of using a large size soldering iron to fill them in. I've used that method myself and knowing how to do it saves hours of body work from having welded or brazed the holes shut.

E