My old gal left me stranded today...

[omaha]

Thanks for your post. It gives me an opportunity to air my issue. I have a 70 240z (78K miles) and it has been in winter storage last 8 months or so. I just changed engine, trans and diff oil. I went to run it and the clutch pedal is too soft to put it in gear. There was no leakage in the hydraulics and the mc is full. Can air get in the system when it is just sitting? My first guess was the slave, but no leaks. I figure I'll blead the system and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll replace the slave. Anyone else have this happen?

[70 Cam Guy]

The stainless clutch slave line from MSA is only about $17 ? I have one on each Z. It'll never fail in the hose area.

I have this as well. At the time, the stainless braided line was cheaper than the rubber equivalent. IIRC it's an Earls line just like the braided brake lines from Motorsport. Fantastic quality.

Regarding the DOT5 question. I don't see a real reason to use that in the system if DOT3 or 4 have been used. You need to flush the whole system more than once because dot 5 is not compatible with dot3/4. I also can't imagine the clutch fluid is exposed to high heat produced from braking.

[lbpdz]

question though.. overall how is your breaking in general? does your breaking seem kind of soft too? More explanation if what I think could be going on to follow. Ambien kicking in so don't want to put too much effort into it and not make much sense.

Oh, and NEVER drive/operate/or do anything mission critical when taking ambien.. doesn't work in your favor

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Just a quick update. I got my part from Courtesy in ONE DAY!!! Not sure how that is even possible, but I am happy to have it. It was a genuine Nissan part, number the box was:

30620-U7001

It Japan stamped on it, and another word, I will get a picture of it. I will also get a picture of the clutch master cylinder I may replace it with.

[Zforce]

I guarantee the second you guys stop referring to your cars as gal, she and her it will cost you much less and you will get more enjoyment out your car and it wont break down. Don't believe me try it. No offense to any GAL's on the forum.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Here are the pics of the replacement parts I have acquired.

The new slave is from Courtesy Nissan, Its a Nabco

It has 3/4 stamped on the side.

My slave master cylinder on the car is a nabco as well, but I could not get a good picture showing it.

My replacement slave master cylinder is a Sanyco:

And the odd thing about it is that it is about 1.5 inches longer than the nabco installed on the car. It will run perilously close to water bottle for the windshield squirters.

My question is the Sanyco and Nabco compatible. The MC is stamped 5/8, and the slave is stamped 3/4, so the MC seems to have a smaller volume which is good, as it will not overextend the slave.

It does seem that the Nabco looks to be of higher quality than the Sanyco. Was the Sanyco unit an OEM part as well, where was it made?

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE: Just checked autoanything.com

they sell a brand called

Nabtesco, think it is the new OEM approved vendor. Seems like it COULD be a new company formed from what use to be NABCO. Just a guess. I will check with courtesy to see what they offer.

UPDATE2: The clutch master cylinder sold by Courtesy looks just like the one above.

Rock auto had some shorty ones that would not require moving the fluid line that is just like the one currently installed. They are made by RHINOPAC, SACHS, and BECK/ARNLEY

Edited April 26, 2010 by Zedyone_kenobi

[oldhemi]

Thanks for the pics and the research.

FWIW, my early 260Z M/C is original and made by Tabco - Japan. It is a touch under 4" long. The plastic reservoir cover's outside edge is 4 1/4" away from the firewall. My WW fluid container actually touches my clutch M/C - leans on it really. There looks to be 1 1/2" of clearance from the end of my stock M/C to the bottom side of the WW container. So, I think that you will be OK on clearance provided that your 240Z's WW container is the same as my 260Z's. BTW, my original M/C plastic reservoir is on the outward end of the M/C. Your new Sanyco has a bit more cylinder(1 1/2"?) outbound from the firewall after the reservoir.

You might have to wrestle with the hard line a bit, because your new unit appears to have the port further forward. Hopefully there is enough slack in your old line! Just a heads up on this. I am planning on replacing mine because I have no confidence that it will come off cleanly(see my other posts with my experience on these cars fasteners) and It is probably sludged up from setting so long.

I am presently w/o a camera again. I really appreciate you posting because it is good timely info!

Edited April 26, 2010 by oldhemi

[Jeff G 78]

When I built my LeMons 260, I found the same thing. The MC reservoir was at the end rather than in the middle. The early cars were different than the 280s. It looks like you got the wrong MC. It will work, but like oldhemi said, you'll have to bend the line to fit. If you want it to look original, get the right one. I got mine from rockauto.com and it's a rebuilt Tabco just like the original. It's a Beck Arnley part. Here are the two MCs.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Jeff G that is what I found as well, good summary. IF I want to keep it original, I need to get that part. I may just install the slave now, and then order the MC so that it looks right. Rock auto was the only place in my research I found that shorty MC. Still good to know that the longer one was OEM for the later vehicles. I figured as much, as it is still listed as an OEM quality replacement.

[Jeff G 78]

I'd either order the right one and wait, or replace only the slave and leave the MC alone. Like I said earlier, the slaves are notorious for dying, but the MCs last forever if they aren't left in damp storage. I seriously doubt you will ever have a MC failure.

[KDMatt]

I'd either order the right one and wait, or replace only the slave and leave the MC alone. Like I said earlier, the slaves are notorious for dying, but the MCs last forever if they aren't left in damp storage. I seriously doubt you will ever have a MC failure.

Forgive me, but I have heard that this is not a good idea.

If you replace the slave, you should replace the master as well at around the same time.

What I have heard is that the increased 'freshness' and boost in pressure on your hydraulic system, as a result of the new slave and fluid, can accelerate the wear on an already (presumably) failing master.

No personal experience to back this up -- just what I've been told by a few sources. I replaced both the master and slave cyls on my Bimmer in a similar fashion, for similar reasons (don't ask me about working on german cars, it was not a fun experience) ...