My old gal left me stranded today...

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE:

Courtesy Nissan said they had a mistake on their website and offered to pay for me to ship my part back to them and they would get me a new one in 3-5 days from receiving it. That really will not work for me time wise, as I need my car to be ready by the 8th for a car show. I am going to try to ship it back and go for some store credit as I will be using them again. Mistakes happen, and I they handled it with class.

In the mean time I used RockAuto to order the slave pictured above. I hope it is as pictured. Courtesy said they require me to send it back in the original packaging. I threw that away, so I hope they will still let me return it.

I will get that installed and report back.

By the way, there is no mention of how much slack there should be between the pushrod on the slave and the withdrawl lever (clutch fork, what have you).

There is a certain distance you can push the withdrawl lever by hand until it stops...now what I do not know is when I actually bring the bearing into contact with the spinning clutch fingers that pull the assembly away form the clutch disk.

My plan is to stay on the conservative side. I am going to reinstall the new slave and match the installation of the old one to the last thread. I will make sure some of easy to move travel is left before I push the pedal.

[Gary in NJ]

Here are the adjustment instructions for the clutch.

240 Clutch Adjustment.pdf

[Jeff G 78]

I don't ever recall seeing a spring between the slave and clutch fork. Was that only on the really early cars?

[Zedyone_kenobi]

You sir are the man!!!

I have the 72 FS Manual, and for 99% of the stuff I need it for its perfect... but this is one instance, the 71 is far better, thanks for putting that in this thread. You just improved the usefulness of this post by 100%

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I don't ever recall seeing a spring between the slave and clutch fork. Was that only on the really early cars?

yes, the 70, 71 and early 72 model years.

[Jeff G 78]

yes, the 70, 71 and early 72 model years.

Gotcha. I never had anything prior to a mid/late '72. That explains it.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE:

Courtesy lived up to their name and agreed to get me the right part or refund my money. VERY good customer service from David from courtesy. They are a class act in admitting a mistake and tried to do everything to make amends.

Well I ordered that rockauto part, and low and behold, it came as a silver beck/arnley part (read cheap crap). Nothing at all like was pictured online...so you cannot always trust rock auto to send you the part pictured, they do cheat at times.

I decided since the slave they sent me, although it looked and felt cheap as hell, I would install it. After all it did have a threaded pushrod ( 3/4" too long and the hemisphere that pushed was 2x as big as the OEM one), and an eyelet for the spring.

I first noticed that when I installed it it sat crooked. The bolt spacing did not allow the slave to push at 90° to the clutch fork. IF that did not suck bad enough, the flexible rubber hose would not seat properly against the slave body....what do I mean by that.. lets me try to explain it..

look at the red plug in this picture on the nabco slave. If you look carefully around the red plug you can see a round recessed relief cut into it a few thousands deep. This is to provide a good sealing surface. The fitting on the rubber hose that screws into this is completely flat..the top left of this picture is the end that goes into the slave.

The threads on that fitting go all the way down to a flat land where the hex nut is. It is one piece and is meant to sit flat against the machine piece on the slave.

Well my beck/arnley slave has a recess MANY thousands deep and the flat on the rubber line fitting cannot come into contact with the sealing surface.. so it leaks.

So now i have 2 slaves, that do not fit or are the wrong part, and I have to ship them both back...

I am going to give courtesy a call today and see if they can let me know what part I would get if they sent me a 71 slave...

[TBone028]

That is really weird Zedyone...I ordered from RockAuto and installed Beck Arnley slave cylinder, part # 0721258 just last week. One thing I did have to do was to re-use the old slave cylinder push rod. The push rod that came with the new slave was just like you said, too long and the hemisphere was too large. I ordered a new hose as well, but did not install it. I had no problems at all with the new slave, it bled perfectly, and I have zero leaks. Shifting is effortless now and very smooth with good clutch feel.

What is the condition of your old hose? Are the ends the same as your new hose? I'm wondering if your old hose might work with the beck arnley slave cylinder.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I replaced the old hose with a new beck/arnley hose.. haha.. You would think they would be compatible. I am wondering if I can use a copper washer in between to make a seal. It is not that high pressure. I think that the B/A would have probably worked, but I think the tolerances are a bit off on mine. I would wager that they are not as controlled as an OEM part.

[TBone028]

You probably could use a copper washer, or maybe even thread with some teflon tape...but, if you have a new part on order from courtesy, then I'm sure you can always "fix" it properly at a later date.

[Arne]

I replaced the old hose with a new beck/arnley hose.. haha.. You would think they would be compatible. I am wondering if I can use a copper washer in between to make a seal. It is not that high pressure. I think that the B/A would have probably worked, but I think the tolerances are a bit off on mine. I would wager that they are not as controlled as an OEM part.

The original hose and slave on my car REQUIRED a copper washer, the part number from Nissan is 46237-18000 as shown in the attachment. (If you look at the picture on the parts fiche or CD, the washer is shown in the wrong spot, which confuses many people.)

In my experience, neither replacement cylinders nor replacement hoses come with the washer, but it is still needed.

Edited May 5, 2010 by Arne

[Zedyone_kenobi]

So Arne, your saying that the washer (2) should go on the slave cylinder end versus the hose to hard line end? If so, your right, that is a terrible picture.

The first picture says so.. interesting. My old setup did not have this to my knowledge. I bought a large pack of copper washers today.