New to club

[askgeorge]

I bought my Z in 1972 and still have it. It has about 234K miles. But what has me here joining you is my current problem. About two years ago I overheated the engine and it started to blow blue smoke. I assumed that I had melted the vavle seals so I replaced the head with a rebuilt one. I started up the engine only to realize after about 5 minutes that I was getting water in the oil. Evidently I didn't get a good seal on the head gasket. Pulled off the head and did it again. But that isn't the issue.

Since doing that I have started it up without the water leak but still smoke so I figured the bottom needs attention too, but that isn't the issue either.

Now I can't get it tow start, actually to get the starter to work. I have pulled the starter and taken it to Kregan for testing and it was fine. I have replaced the starter switch (behind the key) changed the resistor, coil and fusable link to the started. Also have checked the starter relay under the dash. It clicks when the key is turned to start and clicks when key is at run. Still no action at the starter. any ideas?

George

[zKars]

George:

Welcome to the club! Always to happy to meet an original owner. Got your hands full I see, uh?

From the symptoms you seem to have to no power to the small Black/yellow wire that goes on flat 1/4" connector tab next to the main battery lead connector bolt on the starter, coming from the + side of the battery. There is no relay on that B/Y line, its connected directly to the key switch in the "Start" position. The relay you found is likely the ignition relay, it puts power to the fuse block when the key is "On".

A very easy way to test the starter is to put the car in neutral, key OFF, and just stick a screw driver momentarily (short it out) between the little terminal and the big bolt that the lead to battery is connected to. The starter should turn. Dont' do this with a screwdriver you love, it will get a little arc welding going on... This effectively puts +12 on the start terminal, just like your key action should do to the B/Y wire.

If the starter cranks, next you have to get a volt meter and test if there is 12 volts on that B/Y wire when the key is in the start position. Since you changed the switch itself, you likely have a bad wire connector at the end that goes to the starter terminal. Chop the connector off, strip back some insulation, clean the wire, and crimp on a new terminal. Again, any Walmart or Auto-whatever will have some.

Try not to fall in the trap of doing parts replacement as a troubleshooting technique. Get the schematic (search here for Factory Service manual or FSM) and a volt/ohm test set from Walmart or the local car parts emporium, study a bit and figure out what should do what, and test for power where you expect power with the meter.

Check the connector on the back of the key switch, especially the one for the B/Y wire. Maybe its pushed in and not making contact. Could be that simple, but likely just the connector on the end of the wire at the starter.

Post your results after you do some testing and we'll see if we can track this down.

I found a decent schematic for you too. Attached.

Good luck!

Jim

Edited April 26, 2010 by zKars