Mike Posted April 29, 2000 Share #1 Posted April 29, 2000 -- Group Message from RICHARD SCHULZE <richard@eoa.com> --Dear Kelly:Solenoids rarely go bad except on Fords where the solenoid is not partof a starter assembly. I have seen solenoids frequently mis-diagnosed.In the case of Chevy starters, bad brushes disrupt the ground for thesolenoid hence the age old cure of hammering on the starter. Thevibration from hammering sometimes makes the brush contact better (atleast for a few times) and then the car will start. You should alsoknow that in the case of the $ 60 starter vs the $ 50 solenoid, a $50 solenoid is not used to make a $ 60 starter. In Fact a $ 60 starteris about 90% old parts most of which have only been cleaned andpainted. The parts that are usually replaced are the bushings, brushes,and the solenoid. The brush contact area on the armature is usuallyrefaced (lathed down until smooth). This is all true unless you arefoolish enough to buy a starter from Auto Zone. They buy theirstarters from Mexico for about $5 apiece and I have seen them with oldbrushes, old bushings, old solenoids and un finished armatures. TheZone will give you a lifetime warranty on your starter, which you willneed for the weekly failures. Buy a starter from a local rebuilder evenif it costs a few more bucks! Good Luck.Richard Schulze--------------------------------------------------------------©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org-------------------------------------------------------------- Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/364-starter-information/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon, the BIG boy Posted May 17, 2000 Share #2 Posted May 17, 2000 I'm coming in late on this topic but I thought I would just post this as general info, since I just went thru this.I have a stock '72 240Z. It seemed that my starter was going bad. It would crank slower and slower, then finally would drain the battery....and I would hear that kiss-of-death sound "tick, tick, tick" indicating a dead battery. With the 240Z model, it's a piece of cake to pull the starter...which I did. Once disassembled, it was apparent that the problem was worn brushes and dirty contact surfaces.A new set of brushes costs about $5 from Kragan. With a small soldering iron and a piece of 0 gauge steel wool, I was able to replace the brushes, clean the contacts, and clean the core, etc.After reinstalling, the starter seemed to crank faster than it did when it was on the showroom floor--28 years ago. For $5 and about 2 hours of my time, I was able to solve the starting problem, keep my old reliable starter and increase my self-esteem immensely. :-)Replacing the brush holder is a little tricky, but if I can do it, ANYONE can do it! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/364-starter-information/#findComment-754 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now