240dkw Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share #37 Posted August 28, 2012 So, I finished the work on the hatch/tail light area and decided to clean all of the old undercoating off the bottom of the car. After getting tired of laying on my back and the stuff falling in my face, I put the car on the rotisserie and flipped it over. The job went better after that. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-399949 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240dkw Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share #38 Posted August 28, 2012 I have decided to go with a etching primer and paintable spray on undercoating. It seems to have about the right texture. Here is how it looks on car. I will paint it with the same color as the car before I flip it back on its feet Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-399950 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted August 28, 2012 Share #39 Posted August 28, 2012 Looks great Dan! But can it fit in your luggage? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-399971 Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted September 2, 2012 Share #40 Posted September 2, 2012 Dan, just found this thread and read the whole thing, beautiful work! I'm just about to start this process on my 240z so it's great to see where the rust has settled in your car compared to mine. Your floors are almost pristine compared to mine. But then I have less rust above the floors. I'm planning on starting my own strip/clean/repair and resto thread when I really get going on mine, hope you will have a look at it and comment.Did you use the Eastwood spot weld drill or just drill through both layers?Chris Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-400410 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240dkw Posted September 2, 2012 Author Share #41 Posted September 2, 2012 Blue: Are you saying that if I bring it out you will finish it for me?Chris: Thanks, I used a spot weld drill (OK I went through four or five before I was done). Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-400412 Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpilati Posted September 4, 2012 Share #42 Posted September 4, 2012 Time for an update. I have worked my way around the car to the right rear quarter, here is a photo of the old one removed. The only bad spot underneath was the dogleg area. After cutting out the bad, I treated everything with the silver POR15. next up is to weld on a non rusted rear rocker section and then the new rear quarter.These are awesome photos, first I've seen these types of pictures. I find the middle two photos especially enlightening. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-400653 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240dkw Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share #43 Posted December 11, 2012 Time for an update. So I thought I was done with the rust until I pulled the fenders out of the pile in the corner. Lower panel behind the front tire not so good. Cut it out and welded a new one one. Photo one is the bad cut of, two is the new panel tacked on, three is the panel all welded up and four the finished job. As well here is a pic of the car so far. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-408920 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted December 11, 2012 Share #44 Posted December 11, 2012 Nice! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-408974 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardway Posted December 11, 2012 Share #45 Posted December 11, 2012 That is some great progress Dan! You are truly neck deep in that car. I have been tackling some of the rust repair on my '72 as well and yours gives me more motivation to carry on. Can you tell us what kind of welder you are using and what you have it set at? When I have welded some butt joints together I am still blowing holes through it. I have Hobart Handler 150, set on 1 for power, 5-6 for wire speed, using .024 Hobart wire, and my gas set at around 25-30. In some of my repair work as can be seen in your pics there is no way to put a backing plate on the spot you are welding. If you do blow a hole through the metal how do you go about repairing it without making the hole bigger? Any info will be greatly appreciated by all! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-409000 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240dkw Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share #46 Posted December 12, 2012 That is some great progress Dan! You are truly neck deep in that car. I have been tackling some of the rust repair on my '72 as well and yours gives me more motivation to carry on. Can you tell us what kind of welder you are using and what you have it set at? When I have welded some butt joints together I am still blowing holes through it. I have Hobart Handler 150, set on 1 for power, 5-6 for wire speed, using .024 Hobart wire, and my gas set at around 25-30. In some of my repair work as can be seen in your pics there is no way to put a backing plate on the spot you are welding. If you do blow a hole through the metal how do you go about repairing it without making the hole bigger? Any info will be greatly appreciated by all!I use a Millermatic 140 with the automatic setting. The wire is .024 E-Z grind. Is 25-30 CFH or PSI, my gas setting is about 5 PSI as I do not have a flow meter, but even 25 CFH seems high. As far a welding , patience, patience, patience. Do not try to lay down a bead, just a whole bunch of tacks. I use five or six tacks and then move to the other end of the panel and do the same while the first one cools. I jump back and forth and keep checking the whole panel for temp and if it starts to feel too warm take a break and let it cool. Same goes for if you blow through, STOP and let it cool right down before trying to fill in the hole with more little tacks.This link might help, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/thin-metal.htm Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-409040 Share on other sites More sharing options...
e-tek Posted February 18, 2013 Share #47 Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) Any updates since Xmas Dan? Y'know, I was thinking as I re-read your thread, you and I are on such a similar "Z-life-path" - ! If we get finished anywhere near the same time, we should drive our Zeds to a meet on the AB-SK boarder. Edited February 18, 2013 by e-tek Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-415299 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240dkw Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share #48 Posted March 17, 2013 Well, had a small setback, while trying to fit the front fenders, I did not like how everything was lining up. I did a poor job of welding the rockers where they met the back of the front fenders. So out came the cut-off wheel and the welder. After a while everything lines up a lot nicer. Next I went over all of the seams under the car with a sealer and then did another coat of undercoating. Not sure if I am going to leave it like this or give it a coat of paint. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36693-progress-on-rust-repairs/?page=4#findComment-418026 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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