Jump to content

Recommended Posts

That's the problem Gary. I already found a show stopper. It's me. LOL I'm too much of a perfectionist to just get it running. I know it will cost me at least 12 grand to do it right and the car is realistically only worth 8-10 in great shape but I really hate to see these cars parted and scrapped.

So that is my dilemma.

Well it was delivered today. The vin is 20123 with a build date of 1/71. The car does have rust beyond my abilities but there are a lot of good parts too. I am going to part it out at this point.

Why not sell it to someone who DOES have the skills to fix it then? Seems silly to scrap a car just because you personally don't have the means or patience to do so, or because the car is not suitable for your project (while it might be a great car for someone else). Just from the looks of it, that car looks to be a lot more solid than my car to start with, and mine is FAR from the worst I've seen.

My 2 cents...

Edited by rturbo 930

Why not sell it to someone who DOES have the skills to fix it then? Seems silly to scrap a car just because you personally don't have the means or patience to do so, or because the car is not suitable for your project (while it might be a great car for someone else). Just from the looks of it, that car looks to be a lot more solid than my car to start with, and mine is FAR from the worst I've seen.

My 2 cents...

Although I don't think I need to explain my decision I will.

The car was for sale in my area for almost 3 weeks. The opportunity was there for other buyers but the owner told me I was the only one that came to see it. If he didn't sell it it was going in for scrap.

After it was delivered I did a complete inspection and although it looks pretty solid from 1500 miles away with a few pictures to go by it is not. There is rust on every corner, on the floors, in the frame rails, wheel wells, lower doors and floor supports, seats did not come with the car, the engine needs to be rebuilt, gas tank is shot, wheels are scrap metal at this point, bumpers are shot and so on.

So, although I do not have the skills to cut and weld, I do have the skills to do everything else. But I would have to say that my best skill is the skill to evaluate what this car would cost to restore properly, and by properly I mean back to stock with a bare metal resto. This car is not worth saving as a whole. I would have to invest 12 - 15 grand to complete it and in the end it would be worth 10 grand tops for a nice, complete very late series 1 car.

When I purchased the car it was so that I could acquire a few elusive parts that I have been trying to obtain for almost 2 years now. This car had all the little bits I needed that I could not by brand new. It also has a lot of parts that others on this forum and other sites need to complete their restorations. I plan to offer these parts to those people and others so that they may not have to wait 2 years to find the part they need.

I agree that it is unfortunate that early cars like this one get scrapped but it is a necessity if we are going to get other, better specimens, back on the road.

My 2 cents.

John

Although I don't think I need to explain my decision I will.

The car was for sale in my area for almost 3 weeks. The opportunity was there for other buyers but the owner told me I was the only one that came to see it. If he didn't sell it it was going in for scrap.

After it was delivered I did a complete inspection and although it looks pretty solid from 1500 miles away with a few pictures to go by it is not. There is rust on every corner' date=' on the floors, in the frame rails, wheel wells, lower doors and floor supports, seats did not come with the car, the engine needs to be rebuilt, gas tank is shot, wheels are scrap metal at this point, bumpers are shot and so on.

So, although I do not have the skills to cut and weld, I do have the skills to do everything else. But I would have to say that my best skill is the skill to evaluate what this car would cost to restore properly, and by properly I mean back to stock with a bare metal resto. This car is not worth saving as a whole. I would have to invest 12 - 15 grand to complete it and in the end it would be worth 10 grand tops for a nice, complete very late series 1 car.

When I purchased the car it was so that I could acquire a few elusive parts that I have been trying to obtain for almost 2 years now. This car had all the little bits I needed that I could not by brand new. It also has a lot of parts that others on this forum and other sites need to complete their restorations. I plan to offer these parts to those people and others so that they may not have to wait 2 years to find the part they need.

I agree that it is unfortunate that early cars like this one get scrapped but it is a necessity if we are going to get other, better specimens, back on the road.

My 2 cents.

John[/quote']Gotcha. From where I'm sitting, it looks pretty solid. Of course, I thought the same when I bought my car... I imagine you know how that goes.

Although, I was suggesting someone could use the shell for a non-stock resto of some sort, while you take all the rare bits off of it for your own project. Stock isn't the only option ;). Although, I am aware it is the preferred option of many users on this site.

although it looks pretty solid from 1500 miles away

I've heard of 10 and 20 foot cars, but 1500-mile is a new standard. ;)

A few years ago I had a really nice '89 KDX200 that I restored from a box of parts. I raced the bike in hare scrambles for two seasons and then retired it to fun-bike status. About the same time I came across a similar bike without an engine and figured I would buy it as a parts bike. I cleaned, tagged & bagged the entire bike. It was also about that time that I stopped breaking parts on my KDX. A few years later the KDX was sold, & I've been stuck with parts ever since.

I have a collection of bike parts from the last 30 years from dozens of bikes.

It's for that reason I wont purchase a parts car.

Well it was delivered today. The vin is 20123 with a build date of 1/71.

The spare is a SSR just like my early Z. The date code is K7003 so according to the thread you posted it is from September 3rd of 1970. The date on the wheel is 71 so I am not sure what that does to Carls thread. I guess it tells us that SSR 20's were manufactured to some extent the first week of September at least.

Further research, since that Post in 2006 - might indicate that "K7" are manufacturer codes - and only the last three digits indicate the date of mfg. 0=1970 and 03 indicates the third week. {week codes go from 01-52}

I say "might" because there is still no definitive information I can find - the MVSS standards were proposed, then put out for comments, then after some period of time - implemented. Even then the manufacturers had grace periods within which to comply, and it seems that some started using the proposed standard even before required by law..

So at this point everything is still just a best quess. Below is the DOT tire dating standard that was "implemented" for 71. The "Optional" symbols that the mfg. could use - could be 1, 2 or 3 symbols..

Having a tire built in Jan. of 1970, on a wheel from 71 would indeed be odd.... as well.

FWIW,

Carl B.

post-3609-1415081219752_thumb.gif

I've heard of 10 and 20 foot cars, but 1500-mile is a new standard. ;)

.... A few years later the KDX was sold, & I've been stuck with parts ever since.

I have a collection of bike parts from the last 30 years from dozens of bikes.

It's for that reason I wont purchase a parts car.

That's exactly my wife's fear. She says "If you buy another car I'll never get my garage back" and I say "You never had a garage, I just let you park in mine";)

Having a tire built in Jan. of 1970, on a wheel from 71 would indeed be odd.... as well.

FWIW,

Carl B.

I agree. Not sure what to make of it. I will check the date code on my 69 wheel (spare for #1366) and see what the code is on that one. Not sure what it will tell me but you never know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.