Looking at a '73 240Z

[MK1888]

I found a 1973 240Z for sale locally, but I'm not sure what all to look for and how to estimate it's value.

Officially has almost 300K miles. Seller claims it's less, but he's only owned it for a few months. It has a 280Z engine and has been repainted. Seller is asking $5000.

Repaint scares me, because I assume damage. Also the mileage seems high to be asking $5K.

Mike

[Jeff G 78]

The car is 37 years old and you are worried that it doesn't have original paint? You need to take a weak flexible refrigerator magnet and touch it to every square inch of the body. Anywhere it doesn't stick, means there is filler under the paint. Also 300,000 miles over 37 years is about right if it has always been driven. I'd MUCH rather have a high mileage Z that has been driven rather than a 100,000 mile Z that sat for a few decades. Z mechanicals can easily be fixed or replaced. Just make sure the body is solid and check the usual rust spots under the car. The TC mounts, battery box, and floorboards/rails.

[MK1888]

So it's worth paying $5K? Current owner has only had it a few months and said he bought it from an woman who had it stored in a barn for some years (it was her husband's), said it had several inches of dust on it.

[Bruce Palmer]

The value of that car is strictly what YOU are willing to pay for it. Remember it will more than likely need everything. One thing you don't want to end up with is 20 grand in the nicest ten thousand dollar Z out there.

[cbudvet]

There is no way I would pay 5 grand for a 73 with a non original motor. Especially if it has 300k miles. If you are really wanting an old 240z, you can find one for a lot less. It worries me that this guy has only had the car for a few months. What's the story with that? Is he trying to flip the car? The paint could be a major issue. Sure, not many 37 year old cars have original paint but there are a lot of cars out there that have been repainted cheaply to try and either increase the value or hide something. Check the classified ads here and local craiglist headings. Good luck. If you can get pictures and post them for us to look at too.

carl

[MK1888]

Here are the pics from the ad:

Yeah, that's what worries me too, that he's only had it for a few months. He said he bought it for his wife. Okay, so?...she doesn't want it anymore?

I don't mind putting some work and money into it. But I got taken before on a car that had a rotted frame that I didn't know about until I started working on it.

I'll definitely use the fridge magnet tip.

[Jeff G 78]

The pics are small, so I cannot tell you one way or another if the car is worth $500 or $5000, but at first glance it looks OK. You REALLY need to crawl under the car and inspect the underbody. Look for any signs of structural repairs or rust.

Since the car has been sitting, it *could* have a fuel tank rust issue like many, many other Z cars have. Before I'd lay down any offer, I'd ask to remove the fuel filter near the tank and see if any debris comes out of it. Tanks can be cleaned, but you'll spend time and money to do it.

How do the suspension bushings look? Are they old and cracked, newish rubber, or poly? If they are old and cracked, you will likely want to replace them all. This costs money and time and you'd have to perform the mother of all Z repairs - spindle pin removal. Are the shocks worn out? Bounce the car and see if it gets hard to move after a few bounces, or if it keeps bouncing.

You need to add up all the things that aren't quite right and start deducting from the asking price. If the car has any underbody rot, it's worth far less than the asking price. If the paint is good, the body is clean and the underbody is rust-free, everything else is easy.

If all else checks out and it runs and drives well, $5000 is very reasonable. It's easy to find a $2000 "driver", but a clean car is worth much more.

[MK1888]

Thanks for the help.

[Rick Q.]

Check the rails,floors,firewall, doglegs,crossmember etc.. Rust equals $$$$. I went thru the same uncertainty when buying the first one. On the East Coast 5k should get a 90% rust free car that needs some mechanical help. I would say 8-10K gets a real nice car. Even in this economy the tri state area still has not suffered like the West Coast. Also its not Cali where these car are so common and lower priced.

Put it up on ramps,stands and chock it. Poke and use magnets like the previous poster said to check all of the above. I took one to a local gas station and paid the guy 40.00 to put it up on a lift. Best 40 I spent,plenty of light and experienced mechanical eyes on it. I saw some seriously structure damaged, dangerous cars being sold at this price range in the tri-state area.Where is the car at? If its close by I MAY be able to look at it, shoot me an email- with your number.

- Rick

wyatt80@optonline.net

Edited September 12, 2010 by Rick Q.

[Gary in NJ]

Where in PA is the car? Maybe someone can look at the car with you.

[MK1888]

Well, I went and poked. I'll post this in case someone might be interested.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/1934278364.html

I'm no expert looking at cars, so I likely didn't find everything wrong. From memory (couple hours ago):

* The car does indeed look good. Nice paint, nice interior. Only a tiny area of paint bubbling around one wheel well.

* It was originally yellow, now it's blue.

* The entire underside *looks* good, but someone went over it with undercoating to cover up the bad spots.

* Ride side frame rail is shot. It either has a massive welding bead around most of it, or it was Bondoed (and then undercoated). It's crushed just before it gets to the wheel well area, as if you tried to lift the car right there resting on the edge of a knife. It's patched with sheet metal and pop rivets where it meets the wheel well. Owner claimed ignorance and said that the other interested buyer (who he said knows Z's) said it wasn't structural. Uhh...the frame rails are definitely structural.

* Much damage from the battery acid. It's a big area, and down to the frame rail, all patched with sheet metal and pop rivets (and undercoated).

* A few holes in the floor (that I found just reaching under and poking). One about the size of a dime, one the size of a quarter, and one the size of a baseball. They all go through to the carpet, despite the owner arguing the contrary.

* Trailing edge of driver's door slightly smacks into the door jam when closing.

* Suspension bushings are old and cracked.

Minor:

* Hatch seal leaks water (he washed the car just before I arrived, which I would always be suspicious of). I would redo all of the seals anyway, because the all looked pretty shitty.

* Windshield seal leaks water.

* Temp and fuel gauges don't work. Heater blower seemed very weak.

* Fuel filter at the tank was half-full of orange "fluff". I couldn't tell if it was rust or deteriorating filter.

* Heater core hoses are blocked off at the engine.

* Choke cable is missing. The owner warmed it up before I got there.

Too bad, because it's a badass looking car. I just don't have the room to do the full resoration this Z needs. (I also don't like dealing with dishonest sellers.)

Mike

Edited September 12, 2010 by MK1888

[Jeff G 78]

Sounds like a typical PA car that has rotted and been patched up to look good. Keep looking, there are plenty of good Z cars for sale around the country. Don't limit your search to a local car. It's FAR cheaper to travel and get a rust free car from AZ than it is to fix a rusty local car and in the end, the rust-free Z will always be worth more than a repaired car.