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I have a 77 280z. owned it since 1985. I am experiencing a strange electrical problem with it. It is similar to other post I have read. I have an idea what it could be but would like to know what you all think. I drove it one night and 15 Min's into the drive my dash lights went out. I took it back home and realized I didn't have side maker or tail lights. I don't drive it alot. And haven't driven it at night for several years. Then I started checking everything to see what else was wrong. Well lets see, volt gauge doesn't register voltage if the doors are open?!, Close them and it shows normal voltage. Dome light doesn't work, all dash lights don't work that includes stereo, etc. Headlights work so it's not on that circuit. Horn doesn't work. Now here is the kicker, if I start the car everything works! except dash and marker lights (parking lights) I found a disconnected wire on the combo light switch. held it in place and the parking and tail lights and dash lights came on. So that fixes that problem. I just have to figure out why it came unsoldered from the combo switch. I have a feeling it is getting hot (green with white stripe). So why no horn, dome lights, and the drain on the volt gauge with the doors open? I've looked at the wiring diagram and am missing the obvious, obviously. Anyone have an idea of what I'm missing? Could it be the ignition relay? Any help is appreciated. Bob


Sounds like you have some compromised connections, Bob. Old cars have electrical corrosion problems literally everywhere. Become a pretzel and work your way under the dash, unplug and clean every connector you can find and replug. Dielectric grease wouldn't hurt, either. Clean every ground you can find.

also clear your fuse box of all fuses, remove the box and soak in vinegar for about 20 minutes, wash it out in warm water and blow it dry. Install new fuses and see what you have. I've seen more aging Datsun problems solved by this simple step than I can count.

  • Like 1

By the sounds of it.

The ignition is getting power from the battery. Enough to start the car.

Yet nothing else works unless the car is running.

This tells me there is a bad connection from the battery to the fusebox.

This also tells me that the alternator is powering those items that the battery should be powering, until the car starts and alternator takes over.

My guess was find the connection that connects the battery to those items. It's not making contact where it used to. And the alternator is also on the same connection somehow, I wish you lived closer. Do the vinegar thing.

Dave

Frank, Bruce and Dave, Thanks. I will do the vinegar thing for sure. And Dave I understand what you are saying I'm just not sure were to start yet but will figure it out. I hate electrical! Dave, I just figured out who you are. I just recently purchased a head light harness upgrade, which I will say is the best thing I've done for my 280 in a long time, and you should be receiving my combo switches anytime now to rebuild. This is Bob with the gold 280 that has the fiberglass cowl induction hood. Thanks everyone. I will post the outcome.

Got your switches last night and have already rebuilt them.

Check your email and answer my question please. I need to know before I pack them up for tomorrows delivery.

"Is the wire that you cut positive all the time or does it get power when the switch is turned on.???"

Let me know.

Dave

Can't seem to acces the Xenons30 site's 77' 280Z Zipfile FSM.

It says "It's not valid"

Does anyone who reads this, have a 77' or 78' 280 that they can clarify 2 wires for me?........

On the combo switch, there are 2 green wires on the combo switch to the connector.

the green/white is on the outer corner of the connector and the other green (possible green/blue) is next to it.

Can anyone reading this, Verify WHICH wire has constant power and which gets power when the parking lights are turned on??

This will only take a minute to find with a test light. Although you may have to remove the column cover to test. Me and Bob, really need to know asap. Trying to do a Hard-wire PLH on his 280Z and need this info before I ship his switches back to him.

Thanks in advance,

Dave

(And Bob)

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I found the problem. After taking everything apart it ended up being as simple as a connector under the dash on the passenger side had vibrated apart. So battery voltage was getting to the connector just not from it which runs into the fuse block. Hence no power in acc position.

Bob

Whew, that's a buncha stuff. I see now why so many guys want carbs when the FI electrical gremlins start attacking.

"buncha" - new word meaning an inordinantely large quantity of elements.

Yeah, but I love it! I had a set of ztherapy su's on my 280 about 15 yrs ago when I was in vegas and loved them. That's why I took my time rebuilding my FI. Now I'm back in CA and put my FI back on. And by the way, my Z passed smog with better numbers than my wifes 05 2.5 altima! And my Z has a header on it. So go figure. Bruce, I have already cleaned everything a couple yrs ago. Thanks for the tip. This was just a connector that worked itself loose it just took me time to find it. Aren't Z cars fun! Every now and again I take the cover off to stare at it. My wife just shakes her head, but she likes it too.

Bob

Edited by rcb280z

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