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1) Warm-up the engine & shut down

2) Attach the timing light as per directions (usually a pick-up for #1 sparkplug plus battery connections)

3) Loosen (no more then a single turn) the locking bolt at the adjustment collar of the distributor

4) Clean the timing mark on the idler pulley (I paint mine white. You can also use a white grease pen)

5) Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hose

6) Chock your tires, and start the car

7) Standing on the passenger side of the car, fire the timing gun at the fixed timing mark on the engine block

8) As the light is flashing, take notice of the clean (or white) timing mark.

9) Twist the distributor to achieve the desired setting (Be careful not to drop the timing gun wires into the spinning fan)

10) After you get the desired timing, shut down the engine and tighten and reconnect in reverse order.

Edited by Gary in NJ

Hey thanks. It took me awhile to find the notch for the timing mark but I finally found it. I was around 5 degrees BTDC, I think the manual says 10. I have it at 10 or 11. After driving it, it seemed much more responsive. Do you think I should back some more timing out of it? Say 15 degrees?

1) Warm-up the engine & shut down

2) Attach the timing light as per directions (usually a pick-up for #1 sparkplug plus battery connections)

3) Loosen (no more then a single turn) the locking bolt at the adjustment collar of the distributor

4) Clean the timing mark on the idler pulley (I paint mine white. You can also use a white grease pen)

5) Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hose

6) Chock your tires, and start the car

7) Standing on the passenger side of the car, fire the timing gun at the fixed timing mark on the engine block

8) As the light is flashing, take notice of the clean (or white) timing mark.

9) Twist the distributor to achieve the desired setting (Be careful not to drop the timing gun wires into the spinning fan)

10) After you get the desired timing, shut down the engine and tighten and reconnect in reverse order.

As far as checking total advance you need to go back to your marks on the pulley. The marks only go up to probably 20 degrees BTDC, so you will need to try and make additional marks up the scale trying to mark them the same distance apart as the first marks. It's kind of hard to get down there and do it accuratley, but as close as you can. Even if you don't get it perfect, it will let you know that your mechanical advance is doing it's job at higher rpm. You need to run up the engine to at least 3000rpm to measure full advance.

I'm a full believer of the total advance setting - all of us drive our cars around the 2500-3500 rpm mark - with that theory the total advance setting would be correct. Not many of us drive at idle..............a timing light with a total advance adjustment is a must for any toolbox!

  • 2 years later...
1) Warm-up the engine & shut down

2) Attach the timing light as per directions (usually a pick-up for #1 sparkplug plus battery connections)

3) Loosen (no more then a single turn) the locking bolt at the adjustment collar of the distributor

4) Clean the timing mark on the idler pulley (I paint mine white. You can also use a white grease pen)

5) Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hose

6) Chock your tires, and start the car

7) Standing on the passenger side of the car, fire the timing gun at the fixed timing mark on the engine block

8) As the light is flashing, take notice of the clean (or white) timing mark.

9) Twist the distributor to achieve the desired setting (Be careful not to drop the timing gun wires into the spinning fan)

10) After you get the desired timing, shut down the engine and tighten and reconnect in reverse order.

If I need to check the total advance, 3,000 RPM, should I reconnect the vacuum advance hose?

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