SteveJ Posted June 8, 2011 Share #13 Posted June 8, 2011 Rob, I think this thread might help you with the diagnostics on the turn signal. Look at the posts that were made in the last week in the thread. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358110 Share on other sites More sharing options...
robftw Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share #14 Posted June 8, 2011 its looking like its in the steering colum, i'll take it apart and clean it. It clicks when its in the "on" position but no lights. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358113 Share on other sites More sharing options...
robftw Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share #15 Posted June 9, 2011 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68ifU_6SSUg Updated video, running bad again even with the injectors cleaned. I'm gonna get it professionally timed tomorrow i'm done dealing with the ignition bull. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358178 Share on other sites More sharing options...
robftw Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share #16 Posted June 9, 2011 Cant edit the last post.. I was adjusting the dizzy and found out the group of wires heading to the thermostat (the 4 bullet connectors) made my idle jump up and down.. Anyways, i pulled them out to the side to where it had high idle and left it, the engine ran amazing, i was able to adjust the dizzy, change the idle speed everything. I guess i had a short somewhere over there. now here comes the kicker, when i went to rev the engine.. well it died and now refuses to start, i REALLY hope its just because i might be out of fuel.. i put 3 gallons in it earlier today for a short drive / testing engine. Maybe i ran out of gas D: I haven't figured out my average MPG yet. ODO says i drove 40 miles. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358199 Share on other sites More sharing options...
robftw Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share #17 Posted June 9, 2011 missed the edit button again.. Anyways i pulled all the injectors and turned if over to check if it was flooded... and .. it started.. I let the gas run out and decided to do some more investigating. I cleaned up all the injector clips while i was out there, 2 of them were green with corrosion.. its the simple things everyone misses. Anyways, i was playing around with the thermostat housing wires, i managed to get the car started again with the injectors plugged in, For whatever reason when i tug on the wire to get a faster idle, and then rev the engine it almost stalls every time.. hmm Don't know why it does this, im going to check the EFI bible tomorrow and look into it further. Anyways, in the end i found the "sweet spot" I got the engine to have a stable rpm of about 850, it revs to 5k+ with no problems. Needless to say i will be getting out my army of zip ties tomorrow to make sure the wires don't ever move again. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358202 Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastWoman Posted June 9, 2011 Share #18 Posted June 9, 2011 Needless to say i will be getting out my army of zip ties tomorrow to make sure the wires don't ever move again.NO, NO, NO, NO, NO!Slight movement is good. It keeps your contacts good. IMO that's why cars usually develop problems just from sitting too long.Your problem is that your connectors are crusty, crumbly, and corroded, not that you need to jiggle this wire this way and that wire that way. Your only path to salvation is to clean those connectors up -- or replace them if they are beyond redemption. Your Z shall rise again! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358230 Share on other sites More sharing options...
robftw Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share #19 Posted June 9, 2011 NO, NO, NO, NO, NO!Slight movement is good. It keeps your contacts good. IMO that's why cars usually develop problems just from sitting too long.Your problem is that your connectors are crusty, crumbly, and corroded, not that you need to jiggle this wire this way and that wire that way. Your only path to salvation is to clean those connectors up -- or replace them if they are beyond redemption. Your Z shall rise again!i was poking around again, its not the connectors themselves, it is the wires just after the bullets, one of them has a short ( i cleaned out all the bullets ) so eventually i will repair it but for now im going have it zip tied in a way that it wont short anymore. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358241 Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastWoman Posted June 9, 2011 Share #20 Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) If you have a short, at the very LEAST you should wrap the bare wire with electrical tape. The only thing that should be keeping shorts from happening is intact insulation.FAIW the bullet connectors are the least likely to give you problems. The various Bosch-type connectors (on the injectors, coolant temp sensor, thermotime switch, cold start valve, air regulator, throttle position switch, air flow meter) are more likely to be corroded and deteriorated. If they make or lose contact by your wiggling wires, they're in terrible shape and need cleaning or replacement. Edited June 9, 2011 by FastWoman Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358262 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted June 9, 2011 Share #21 Posted June 9, 2011 Rob,Look up Vintage Connections. Del is a great guy to do business with. I've used plenty of his connectors in rehabilitating my 74. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358266 Share on other sites More sharing options...
robftw Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share #22 Posted June 10, 2011 Took your advice and took apart my extra (cut) wiring harness. I used the better clips of the two, and used the fuel injector hold down clip (they work better) The car now idles fine and is running well, I just need to adjust the valves. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugvFMXsU0G4 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358279 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted June 10, 2011 Share #23 Posted June 10, 2011 Look through Blue's links for adjusting the valves. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358282 Share on other sites More sharing options...
robftw Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share #24 Posted June 10, 2011 I'm reading them now, i'll transfer these pages to my laptop. Also stevej, I got my hazards to work, the right blinker is acting funny.. i took the battery out and used cleaner on the mechanical parts of the turn signal switch (they are gummed up) And eventually got it to turn on, however as it blinks the front and rear right turn signals fade down to nothing, and all i have is the clicking noise inside the car. Do you think its just bad contacts in the steering column switch? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39817-it-runs-bad/?page=2#findComment-358286 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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