zKars Posted September 16, 2011 Share #25 Posted September 16, 2011 John Coffee I believed mentioned that he used a pnuematic hammer, the biggest one he could buy, with a pinpoint tip, to hammer spindle pins out. He claimed great success.Regarding the use of ACME thread, I would use the finest thread pitch I can find to apply the greatest tension with the least torque. And heat. lots of heat...... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-366657 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted September 17, 2011 Share #26 Posted September 17, 2011 but like C-clamps or coil spring compressors, regular threads are not the thing to use. Acme threads work far better with less wear and better power transmission.Please don't get me wrong, I'm not poo-pooing the idea. I agree that acme threads are a better choice than standard threads for an application like this. I just came in here to offer you some lengths of acme threaded rod for the cost of shipping if you wanted to mess around with the design before you spent real money on material of known lineage.:classic: Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-366706 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brubaker Posted October 24, 2011 Share #27 Posted October 24, 2011 I am going on the cheap an dhoping for the best. I bought some 5/8 washers and a large steel nut, $4. These will slide over the spindle pin. My hope is to remove the spindle pin nut, slide on the washers, put the nut baclk on and tighten with a ratchet and breaker bar. As I tighten the rust seal will hopefully give it up. I fgure I will only get a couple hundred pounds of torque. If I need a ton of torque this won't work. I will hit with penetrating oil and I am hoping if I get some movement I can switch to the other end and do it again. The washers will push up against the control arm and the spindle can fit through the opening. It sounds like some had had success with this method. Once the rust seal is broken and the spindle starts to move, does it get easier or is it a bear the whole way out? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-370112 Share on other sites More sharing options...
buysell Posted October 24, 2011 Share #28 Posted October 24, 2011 I had to air-hammer mine ALL the way out. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-370113 Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted October 24, 2011 Share #29 Posted October 24, 2011 I am going on the cheap an dhoping for the best. I bought some 5/8 washers and a large steel nut, $4. These will slide over the spindle pin. My hope is to remove the spindle pin nut, slide on the washers, put the nut baclk on and tighten with a ratchet and breaker bar. As I tighten the rust seal will hopefully give it up. I fgure I will only get a couple hundred pounds of torque. If I need a ton of torque this won't work. I will hit with penetrating oil and I am hoping if I get some movement I can switch to the other end and do it again. The washers will push up against the control arm and the spindle can fit through the opening. It sounds like some had had success with this method. Once the rust seal is broken and the spindle starts to move, does it get easier or is it a bear the whole way out?We tried this as sell. All we did was ruin the threads. Part of the problem, in our case, was the cross-pins had raised burrs on the spindles which caused too much interference to get them out easily. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-370118 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff G 78 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share #30 Posted October 24, 2011 I am going on the cheap an dhoping for the best. I bought some 5/8 washers and a large steel nut, $4. These will slide over the spindle pin. My hope is to remove the spindle pin nut, slide on the washers, put the nut baclk on and tighten with a ratchet and breaker bar. As I tighten the rust seal will hopefully give it up. I fgure I will only get a couple hundred pounds of torque. If I need a ton of torque this won't work. I will hit with penetrating oil and I am hoping if I get some movement I can switch to the other end and do it again. The washers will push up against the control arm and the spindle can fit through the opening. It sounds like some had had success with this method. Once the rust seal is broken and the spindle starts to move, does it get easier or is it a bear the whole way out?I tried that once. It ripped the threads right off the pin. It wasn't pretty. The idea behind the puller is that the puller to pin joint is more or less rigid and the wear and tear happens within the threads of the puller itself. Plus, the puller's threads are much larger and stronger. To update the original thread, I will hopefully be moving forward soon. I still have many little projects to finish up before tackling the puller, but I'm hoping to get the order in within a few weeks. Stay tuned. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-370120 Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted October 24, 2011 Share #31 Posted October 24, 2011 Built 5 pullers for a total cost of $136. using hardened 3/4 steel threaded rods, 2 washers, two nuts and 3/4 pipe with a union. Cost also includes tap.I set aside a second nut so I can lock the first one down when I'm trying to remove the spindle pin from the threaded rod. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-370128 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brubaker Posted October 25, 2011 Share #32 Posted October 25, 2011 Where do you get the 12mm all thread from? I assume you connect the threaded rod to the spindle pin but I haven't been able to find a 12mm connector or all thread.I tried to remove the spindle pin nut, didn't have good leverage (car on the ground) and not much time but with a breaker bar I couldn't even get it to budge. Sprayed all with pb blaster will try tomorrow. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-370137 Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted October 25, 2011 Share #33 Posted October 25, 2011 Where do you get the 12mm all thread from? I assume you connect the threaded rod to the spindle pin but I haven't been able to find a 12mm connector or all thread.I tried to remove the spindle pin nut, didn't have good leverage (car on the ground) and not much time but with a breaker bar I couldn't even get it to budge. Sprayed all with pb blaster will try tomorrow.You won't have any better luck using M12 all-thread. You need to use a larger thread to get enough strength to press out the spindle. The other poster said he is using 3/4" threaded shaft. I figure he drilled and threaded one end with the M12 thread and then threads it onto the M12 thread on the spindle. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-370144 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brubaker Posted November 14, 2011 Share #34 Posted November 14, 2011 Spindle Pin Success!! OK I could not find the tool so I wanted to try the washer idea, only I did not have enough washers. I thought what could act like the washers -how about box wrenches. So I strung some box wrenches (and a tube bender) over the spindle as it moved along. Just adding another wrench as the spindle pin moved. It did get easier as it came further out. Once I had enough spindle out I used my lawn mower spark plug wrench. Rube Goldberg would be proud. I must say I was surprised how good the spindles looked. After my ugly wheel cylinders I was expecting the worse but they look like they can go back in and I won't need to use the new ones. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-371734 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrel Posted November 14, 2011 Share #35 Posted November 14, 2011 When it's time to put them back in, make sure they will go in with only hand pressure like they show in the service manual.If you feel where the lock pin fits in the spindle pin, make sure you file down any bumps the lock pins may have made when the factory installed them. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-371736 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenZZZ Posted November 14, 2011 Share #36 Posted November 14, 2011 I must say I was surprised how good the spindles looked. After my ugly wheel cylinders I was expecting the worse but they look like they can go back in and I won't need to use the new ones. I don't think I've ever seen ones that clean except mine which were drenched in VersaChem 13 thread lubricant when they were installed in the early 90's. Think yours have been replaced at some point. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/?page=3#findComment-371740 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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