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Had everything done about 500 miles ago. Replaced EVERYTHING: Master, calipers, rear cylinders, rotors, pads, shoes, drums, all the fluid.....everything. The brakes work great, but squeal very loudly when under very light pressure. Like when just idling through a parking lot or in line at a stoplight--just going very slow with light, constant pressure on the pedal. It's really embarassing! Everybody looks at me like I'm from Pigswallow. It doesn't happen when I'm really USING the brakes.

steve77

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https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/4127-why-do-my-brakes-squweeeeel/
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Hi Steve:

Did you do the installation of the parts? Or if someone else did the work, do you KNOW for a fact that they installed new (or even used) Anti-Squeal Shims between the Caliper Pistons and the back of the Brake Pads? If not, did you/they at least apply a VERY thin coat of "Silicone Hi-Temp Brake Grease" to the backside of the Brake Pads? Failure to do one or the other of these things will certainly cause the symptoms you describe. Solving the Squeal should not be difficult, but will entail removing the pads from the calipers and adding the Anti-Squal shims of grease to the back of the pads. Most easily accomplished (for me!) by removing the caliper from the car and pulling the pads, reinstalling and bleeding the system.

If it isn't as Carl says, the pads could be the problem as well. Some of the pads today have a tendancy to squeal a bit under light braking. It has to do with the metallic content in the pad material itself. Some squeal more than others, as well as the amount of brake dust they emit. Have you noticed on some of the new cars how bad the brake dust gets on the front wheels? It's all in the pad material choices.....

It could also be a bit of glazing on the new pads if you used them hard before they had a chance to bed in...

First, the anti-squeal shims, then try different pads and/or check the ones you have to see if they have a glazing on the pads. Also, make sure you have plenty of grease on the pad retaining pins as they can cause the pads to hang up and that could also contribute to the noises....

I did not do the work. I hate brakes. I had the guy who services my Toyota truck and Lexus do it. I have heard rumours of the shims and am pretty sure he did not use them. Do they come with the pads or are they extra?

Are the pads thinner than the trough in the caliper? What i mean is, is the shim just a thin piece of metal in the outline of the pad that fits behind it?

I need to put boots on my rack, so sounds like I should do it all at once. I'm not idling for an hour through the MSA show entrance with it like this again!!!!

steve77

The shims don't come with the pads, but you can buy a complete set of brake pad hardware that includes new pins, shims, and the retiner clips from MSA.

The shims are a very thin, L shaped piece that goes between the pads and the pistons. They mount over both pins and have a lip on the side to locate them on the back of the pad.

MSA's part number is 24-5301 for the hardware kit, it's only $17.55 per wheel.....and as rusty as the pins get, it's not a bad idea to have a set as a spare if you don't just replace the whole shebang...:cross-eye

If you take a wheel off, you can check to see if the shims are there without pulling anything apart. You will see a small shiny tab over the brake pad backing plate just below the top retaining pin. It should have a small indentation or possibly a small hole in it, as you can use a pic to separate the shim from the pad if it is corroded to the backing pad.

Originally posted by 2ManyZs

MSA's part number is 24-5301 for the hardware kit, it's only $17.55 per wheel.....and as rusty as the pins get, it's not a bad idea to have a set as a spare if you don't just replace the whole shebang...:cross-eye

Steve:

I bought my set of hardware on eBay for $10.00 (Girling manufactured) but it had the hardware for BOTH front wheels. I believe that the MSA set is also for both since the catalog just mentions "Front". Best to confirm with them when/if you order. No use getting two sets if you don't need them both.

As 2ManyZs said, it could be the pad material causing it as well, but no shims, or lack of grease on the back of the pads will certainly cause the problem.

So THAT was you squeeking through the MSA show entrance? If I'd have known I would have come up to say HI! :stupid: I was across the street in my rental car watching the parade! :classic:

Originally posted by Zvoiture

Planning on attending this year? Bringing a Z? If so you MUST park with our club. I guess I should go read your post on "To Do List for 2003" to see if your car is even running!!!!

steve77

Actually, I'm not attending this year. I've attended the last 3 in a row, but have decided to use the $ to get further towards making my Z worthy (in MY eyes) of taking down there. I've used rental cars for the trip so far. I've seen more than a few 240Z's down there that are worse off than mine, but I won't enter it in a show llike that until it meets my criteria for being worthy. Hopefully I'll be closer in 2004 (?) when they have the National Z Convention in LA. Maybe in conjuction with MSA's show?

My car is a running daily driver, but has a front bumper shaped like a "W" and a ugly hood & headlight bucket. Seats need major work too. I'd like to take it down to the show after the front-end is fixed and a full repaint is done. Just need $4000 for the body shop. :( I have collected all of the parts except new bumper brackets to fix the front-end. Now comes the hard part ($$$$$) :(

Squeeal!!! I hate that also!!! Seems the most common responces are the new pads or or the rotors must seat.The other is that the nonfactory pads are just a little small and are allowed to vibrate. The normal bitch is when you just drive down the road and the brake make a very low wek,wek.Not quite enough to be a true squeak.Anyway,The fix I have found was shown to me by a True Datsun ,worked at the dealer as the warranty fixer on 240Z's man.DUCT TAPE!!! Use the cloth type.Apply it to (obviously)The metal side of the pad.Cut the excess off with a razorblade.Then place the (so-called)anti-squeal on the top of the tape.I average about 6000 to 8000 miles per Duct fix. This also works on 280Zx's and 300Z's. Have fun!! Daniel

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