Laggy6 Posted October 1, 2012 Share #97 Posted October 1, 2012 Great work as usual!, keep the updates coming... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-402990 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adzmax Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share #98 Posted October 2, 2012 I removed more of the dash and fittings from the car over the weekend. I also had a play with a spare cluster surround I had to see how easy it was to remove the wood grain finish. As most of you are probably aware, underneath that wood grain trim is the raw aluminium finish used in the GTR. Obviously the same piece was used, it was simply covered for the non GTR models. It turns out thinners or gun wash is very effective! I tested this on my spare piece and it worked a treat. The only common problem is a lot of pieces have corrosion "worms" in the finish. I'm not sure if this is a result of the trimming process or what. The first piece I tested was petty bad so I decided I'd make something similar to a mitre box and line the base with either 1500 wet and dry or 3M steel pad then pass the alloy through to get a new uniform brushed finish. I decided I'd remove the second panel last night more carefully than the test piece so I wouldn't damage or bend the alloy. I tried using a heat gun but it's not fantastic. It looks like a contact adhesive is used on the back of the alloy panel to fix it to the plastic. I ended up pouring some gun wash in between the alloy and the plastic and then waited for it to dissolve the glue. Not great for the plastic but I do have a spare which I plan on spraying. Once the alloy was off I make up a make shift bath with foil and left the piece if for about 30 mins or so. Once the thinners does it's work the wood grain cover is reduced to a balloon like rubber and simply peels off. It's a bit tricky to get off the edges but with some care it all comes off. The contact adhesive also peels off the back Once all the glue and rubber is removed, if you are REALLY lucky you might fine a virtually perfect aluminium panel like I did. It's still a bit grubby in this pictures so I'll brush it with some more thinners tonight and give it a good scrub. It has some very minor corrosion spots but I'm not going to both fixing them, if anything we may try and clear it. A word of advice, make sure your bath doesn't leak. My garage is going to smell like a spray shop for a while Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-403065 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adzmax Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share #99 Posted October 4, 2012 I removed the remainder of the stainless trim from the car last night with a heat gun. It was glued down real good which was a major pain in the arse. That's the entire outside of the car done now. I have sent most of the bright work away for straightening and polishing. Will post pics when it comes back. It doesn't look like a whole lot has changed really but it's good progress. I'll gut the rest of the interior soon I reckon and have the parcel shelf and other trim pieces remade. I'm waiting on some space to shift the car before I remove the engine and blast the car, I need it running to move from the garage. I may remove bonnet, boot and doors etc and start work on them before hand. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-403303 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adzmax Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share #100 Posted October 22, 2012 Progress is a bit slow at this point, I've got stuff away being worked on which I'm hoping to pick up this week and some parts coming from Japan also. I pulled the cluster and gauges from the car when the interior came out. I'm always amazed my how much dust I find and where I find it. I guess I have to remember the car is 37 years old, older than me! Anyhow I wanted to clean and service the lot, make sure that they were OK electronically and reset the ODO as the car is really being reborn, so it deserves 0 on the clock. I've removed the clock on these as the GTR's had a 'Nissan' blanking plate instead of the clock. Hoping that should arrive this week. Reset the back to 0, looking much cleaner now too. I cut and polished up all the lenses, cleaned the housings, dials and needles, checked the circuit boards and components and then reassembled the lot. I'm trying to decide if I change the globes out for LED's or stick with bulbs for the warm glow they give. It's interesting how the bulb housings are painted in certain areas to restrict where the light shines. I think I'll have to play with this and see what looks right. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-404897 Share on other sites More sharing options...
blk180 Posted October 22, 2012 Share #101 Posted October 22, 2012 What did you use to polish the clear plastic i mite have a go at mine. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-404899 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adzmax Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share #102 Posted October 22, 2012 Novus plastic polish. It's really good. My only issue is that it's not course enough for really deep scratches. You could however use something a little more course then work your way back. http://www.novuspolish.com/ Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-404908 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mastadd240K Posted October 22, 2012 Share #103 Posted October 22, 2012 ToothPaste works a treat on Deeper stuff and Stains from plastic Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-404909 Share on other sites More sharing options...
uras1 Posted October 22, 2012 Share #104 Posted October 22, 2012 you can sand plastic with 800 grit and work your way up if needed as well Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-404914 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adzmax Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share #105 Posted October 22, 2012 Nice, thanks for the info, I'll check it out. I've got 800-200 at home so might come in handy. I also saw a nice buffing kit form Novus which could be handy. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-404915 Share on other sites More sharing options...
uras1 Posted October 22, 2012 Share #106 Posted October 22, 2012 Also with the clock i think it was still a option to have a clock from factory or the owners just fitted them later. I have a few pics of genuine GTR's with them but im not 100% certain on the strory behind it. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-404921 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adzmax Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share #107 Posted October 22, 2012 Yeah I've noted that also. Maybe an option, oooh fancy Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-404959 Share on other sites More sharing options...
uras1 Posted October 28, 2012 Share #108 Posted October 28, 2012 are the wheels you have on there 240z ones? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42788-1975-c110-khgc110-240k-build/?page=9#findComment-405487 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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