Have a few questions about my 240

[Jonu]

Oh, and getting the stupid tabs that the broken window louvre used out of the window seal is a major PITA, I tried before I went shooting to get them out and then again once i got back and only managed to remove one of the four tabs. I'll be trying again tomorrow after work. I also plan on starting the steps from the "Wakening the sleeping beast" thread so i might be able to get it started by the end of this week. I'm going to make a check list of things to do so I don't miss anything. Last thing I want to do is screw up the engine cause of a stupid oversight.

[Travel'n Man]

Jon -

Welcome to the site - get ready to have some fun in your garage! You may want to add to your signature the year of your Z.

If there was one mod I was going to do with your 370 it would be a Fast Intentions Exhaust System. My son just got his installed last month and what a huge difference in the exhaust. There are a few YouTube clips out there. The systems are a little pricey but they sound great. Tony hand builds all of them and the workmanship is excellent - very easy bolt on - just follow his instructions step by step.

If you are looking for a serious engine get in touch with Dave Rebello - he is the master in race performance for our "L" engines. Dave can do block work - head work - cam work - any and all that you are looking for - he is extremely knowledgeable on our engines and will give you great guidance as well thoughout your project. I elected to take care of my own block but had Daves team take care of my head and cam - worked out great for me - sounds like you may want to change cranks though. There is one on ebay I think right now for about $900.00.

If you are looking for some serious carbs get in touch with Todd at Wolf Creek Racing for triple Mukini's if that is the route you are wanting to go - get ready to have fun and spend a few dollars!!

http://www.rebelloracing.com/

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/

[Carl Beck]

One of the things i did plan on using modern tech for is the ignition system. I've talked with MSD and think I have a setup figured out, but I'm wondering is there a way to convert to a modern distributor and get rid of the points or is it reliable enough when properly cared for?

Points are a PIA as far as I'm concerned. Some people like dinking with them. In either case I don't believe they offer the best choice.

Lots of options for ignition.

1) Convert your "Points Type" distributor to optical or magnetic triggering

2) Use a 280ZX Electronic Distributor

3) Use a Mallory UniLite Distributor

4) Convert to a crank fire ignition with individual coil packs.

Are you saying that either way I go I'll have to mess with the shock towers? If so, I'll just go ahead with the coilovers. I figured staying with springs and struts would prevent me from having to modify that.

You have to adjust the camber if you lower the car to any significant degree, if you want it to handle like a race car - doesn't matter if you are using coil-overs or lowering springs on the stock struts.

If you are willing to sacrifice somewhat on steering response and tire wear. Because you'll only be driving it on the street - or you aren't going to drive it many miles per year - you can forgo proper camber angles. On the other hand - the wider the wheels and tires you run the more important proper camber angles become..

I believe there are suppliers that offer camber plates that allow limited adjustment, that do not require extensive modifications to the strut towers.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Jonu]

to conver to the Mallory unit I need the following, is this everything?:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4763901/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-700/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-29351/

Then couple that with an MSD ignition.

[Carl Beck]

I don't believe that you need the Power Filer....I don't have one - and my Unilite has been on the since around 1978..... I can't speak for the MSD. Some people have trouble with the Tach - when running an MSD. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ThomasMSD.htm

I've been running a Mallory ProMaster Coil with the UniLite Distributor... I've never really been convinced that the MSD offered any measurable performance difference on an engine running pump gas {compression lower than 10:1}- when added to an already top quality system - coil, wires, distributor ,plugs and all connections.

[Jonu]

When I talked to MSD they mentioned that if I used their ignition system I would need to get a each signal booster. I have also talked to Rebello racing about getting my engine rebuilt, but now I need to call again because i'm thinking of buying a bare L28 block attaching the extra head, intake, and carbs to have that built up instead of theoriginengine. I'll have to look into the Mallory ignition system.

please bear with me on the typos, my phone makes this hard to edit.

[Jonu]

Well i can't edit my post, but what i was trying to say is that for the MSD ignition to work properly I would need a tach signal booster and also getting a second block to have that built up and keep the original engine in stock factory specs. I also made a build thread where I'm going to keep the progress on my build posted, then just use this thread for my "stupid" questions (I quote stupid cause i would rather ask a "stupid" question than not ask and end up doing harm to the car or myself). Anyways the build thread is here (i think it is in the right area): http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?45907-My-Z-build&p=396449#post396449

[Jonu]

Couple more questions. Myself and a friend were going to try turning the car over by hand. I got the appropriate socket and a breaker bat, but when we went to put it on the crank pulley bolt, we quickly realized there isn't enough space between the crank pulley and the back side of the fan/fan shroud. I thought about trying rocking it, but it definitely won't work with the auto tranny.

[Carl Beck]

As I recall - there are only 4 bolts that hold the fan shroud on - and only four that hold the the radiator in. Take the shroud off - then remove the radiator.

Since its out - sent it out to be rodded out and pressure tested by a good radiator shop. You should have it back in a day or so.. You'll need to do that in almost any case - anyway

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Hunter260Z]

Take the cam from the 260 head and put it in the 240. The 260z has the best stock cam of the L series heads. Plug all the emission control junk.

[Jonu]

Thanks for the tip! Today I planned on getting the engine turned over by hand, but was stopped in my tracks when i went to put the socket on the crank pulley bolt. I drained and pulled the radiator in order to have space to work with, but when i went to put the socket on the bolt i quickly found that the outside diameter of the socket is bigger than the hole it needs to go in to fit on the crank bolt. So now I'm stuck trying to figure out how to turn this thing over by hand again. I thought i could roll it in gear but apparently that trick doesn't work with an auto.

Thought i would add that I was trying to use a 27mm thin wall socket.

Edited April 28, 2012 by Jonu
added info

[Zed Head]

Odd that a 27mm thin wall won't fit. If it won't, what will?

You might be able to get it to turn by wrapping the fan belt around the pulley and using it as a handle. You can get quite a bit of leverage that way. Or use a strap wrench on the pulley. The handle would give you enough leverage.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1/190-1806788-4353652?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=strap+wrench