Have a few questions about my 240

[Carl Beck]

That will be a much better arrangement - with the sensor ahead of the thermostate - you would read water temp in the block/head... So you would get a warning if/when the thermostate sticks shut and block temps' start to go too high. With the sensor past the thermostate - you would get a false reading, or at best a very delayed reading on block / cylinder head temps. The one thing you don't want to do is overheat the L series engines.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Jonu]

Hey Carl, do you have any good pictures of how the linkages on the carbs should look? When I cleaned them up, I left one assembled so I would be able to compare them as I reassembled. I'll post up a picture of how mine looks. It just seems like something is off. When I move the throttle linkage it does not appear that anything is moving on the carb.

[Jonu]

Ok here are the pictures. I disassembled one at a time cleaned it up as best as i could and reassembled using the other as a mirror image to make sure it is all together properly. Does this look right?

[tamo3]

Jonu,

Blue wrote great article regarding SU Reassembly Step-by-Step

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread43176.html

Check it out!

[Jonu]

Thanks Tamo. While I'm not sure mine was exactly the same since I noticed a few small differences, It still confrimed what i suspected and I was able to get it working pretty smoothly. Now that I feel comfortable that they are working properly, I can finally get them on the car. They are the only thing keeping it from being started at this point

[Jonu]

wrong thread.

Edited June 24, 2012 by Jonu

[Jonu]

So i decided to try finding my problem with the headlights and turn signals today. When I checked voltages at the fuse box, I wasn't getting anything from any of the fuses. I had the hazards turned on (which oddly enough work), but there was still no response on my multimeter (I had it set for 20V DC). I didn't even get the lightest of responses. I then decided to pull off the turn signal and combination switch so i could check them out in the comfort of my air conditioned room. When I check for continuity on the headlight switch everything seems ok. At the first position (low beam I presume) I get continuity from the Green/white to the Green/blue striped wires. On high beams I get continuity from the green/white to green/blue as well as continuity between what appears to be a white wire with red stripe (maybe green but I'm a little colorblind) and the red wire. Does this sound right. If it is then I figure I have a grounding issue in the car somewhere. With the lights turned on i also did not have any voltage at the fuse block. As for the turn signal indicator, I'm a bit stumped. As I said earlier I didn't see any voltage at the fuse block with my hazards, I also didn't have anything with the turn signals only. Then when checking continuity I have continuity between the black wire and the red w/ white stripe wire (if mounted on the steering column it would be the center and bottom wires) regardless of what position the switch is in and the top wire (Red/yellow) never has continuity in any of the positions.

So to sum it all up I believe the headlights have a bad ground somewhere since the switch appears to be working as intended, and the turn signal switch appears to be not working like it should. I haven't checked the hazard switch since it seems like it is the only thing working.

[madkaw]

Is everything hooked up to your starter-I mean all the wires? Sounds like you don't have any voltage coming from your battery.

[Jonu]

I believe so, I Have the ground from the battery going to both the starter as well as a smaller wire that runs to the firewall right next to the battery. I'll have to go back out and check it later today to look at the rest. But now that you mention it, the starter doesn't seem all that strong even with a freshly charged battery in place and jumper cables coming from my truck. I'll post back what i find out, would be awesome to find the culprit in an easy to access area.

[Zed Head]

On the headlights, if they're like a 280Z, the power is supplied at the combo switch, then runs through it, through the wiring and to the fuse box, on to the headlights, then back to the dimmer switch, where ground is used to choose low or high beam. So if you have continuity through the switch, but no power at the fuse box, then you either don't have power at the switch, or the circuit from the switch to the fuse box is broken.

On the 280Zs the main power line to the combo switch runs through a fusible link. I looked at a 240Z wiring diagram but couldn't figure out where the power comes in. On the 280, it's a white with red wire and the fusible link mount is labeled as HL.

[Jonu]

Thanks for the suggestion Zed. I'm going to reinstall the switches tomorrow after work and connect my truck up to check the power. I got to looking at the wiring digram some more and it definitely appears that there is a fusible link just after the starter motor. It is on a line that runs from just after the starter motor and appear that it supplies power to the fuse block, the Ahm meter, and the voltage regulator. I'm thinking that if that link is bad it might be what is throwing everything else off. I'm going to start drawing up a schematic of the head lights from the FSM on paper and see if I can make some sense of it. Thanks again for the help.

[Jonu]

So I think I'm slowly getting everything working now. I have a new question. I was compiling a list of parts to swap out the existing auto to a manual. I have located a 280Z that I can get the transmission from. At first I was going to just get what i need to get the transmission in the car and working, but now I'm wondering if it would be worth it to take out the whole drivetrain from the transmission all the way to the half shafts. Do you guys think this would be worth the time, work, and money to get the rest of the drivetrain or would it not make much of a difference?