Mallory Unilite, Ignition Boxes, Rebello 2.7L, Triples

[CoastGuardZ]

Nate,

That is the right coil. I run the Unilite with this same coil as well as a Mallory Hyfire 6AL MSD type ignition. It has been flawless and I think that you will be very happy with this choice.

The only downside that I have found is that you have to get Mallory distributor caps and rotors and these are not items that you typically find at your local Autozone. I would recommend that when you purchase the Unilite you also purchase a spare cap and rotor. That's what I have done and usually carry a spare set with me just in case.

It's a pretty easy install but if you need some help just let me know.

Mike.

Thanks for the recommendation Mike! Do you think it would be worth installing the 6AL at this point, or just wait?

Will be very interested to see if your 2.7L makes or loses HP after say 6400 rpm.

I'll know more about the powerband when I get in touch with the Rebello gang again... but that is still up to a year away. I started talking to them about it a few years ago and then didn't decided not to pull the trigger. If they say it will build power into the 7000's then I will definetly add on an ignition box. I haven't come across anyone with the 2.7L because it's so easy to grab and build an L28, but I really want to keep it #'s matching and since I move around the country so much it is a hassle to move a third car AND a spare engine. So I'll be that guy

[Carl Beck]

Two ballast resistors? What is to be gained by adding the second resistor to the circuit?

Hi Steve:

I don't know why two - I just followed the mfg. wiring dia. - my tach worked just fine.

If I had to guess - I'd guess it has something to do with the fact that in the "Start" position on the ignition switch - the ballast resistor is by-passed and the coil is feed 12v. You don't want to feed 12v to the unilite ever - and there may be no need to feed 12v to the ProMaster Coils. The feed to the tach is in that loop as well... But all that is just a guess..

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Mike W]

Nate,

I actually installed mine in stages starting with the Unilite, then adding the coil, and then finally the 6AL. I didn't want to do everything at once, so in the event of a problem, I could track down the issue with a lot more accuracy. It also made the install easier as you only have to focus on one thing.

Hope that helps.

Mike.

[Lazeum]

Thinking again about your question and your plan, I believe the first move would be to talk to Dave R. about your project.

I'm quite sure they know at Rebello what kind of distributor you should run as well as the corresponding timing curve you need. this will be setup on an engine dyno, it should be spot on with the correct carbs also tuned as they should.

Bottom line, I would not do anything if you're going to deal with Rebello to get your engine Let the engine builder do the work with the correct tool.

Edited June 7, 2012 by Lazeum

[CoastGuardZ]

Thinking again about your question and your plan, I believe the first move would be to talk to Dave R. about your project.

I'm quite sure they know at Rebello what kind of distributor you should run as well as the corresponding timing curve you need. this will be setup on an engine dyno, it should be spot on with the correct carbs also tuned as they should.

Bottom line, I would not do anything if you're going to deal with Rebello to get your engine Let the engine builder do the work with the correct tool.

Darn your voice of reason! Just as I was about to click "check out" too.

I talked with Dave a few years back about the build, but the topic of "which dizzy" never came up. I'll give them a call tomorrow to discuss more in depth, however I feel pretty confident that the Mallory will be fit the bill for anything from bone stock to big bore strokers.

By the way, your avatar pic has planted the idea of that airdam in mind...

[Lazeum]

Good to hear. Let us know his feedback, I'll be curious to hear about it.

For the airdam, I love it. It is a xenon unit in polyurethane. It looks good but it is vey soft. Some reinforcements are required to make it efficient. Some brake ducts could also be added to create some functions to the form.

[Travel'n Man]

Dave Rebello assist with my engine rebuild - I had him do all the head work and I did the block work. He is a great guy that is extremely knowledgeable about our engines and how to get the kind of horsepower that each individual driver is after. I am running a Protronix in my Z and it is dead on - never missing a beat and very reasonable priced. What ever you do Dave will steer you in the right direction - be sure to discuss a cam with him and the power band that you are going to be driving in. If Dave does your entire engine and carb package he will be able to dyno the entire engine and get it totally broken in on the dyno. Horsepower in the high 100's to low 200's is a lot of power for our cars vs the weight, with a little more aggressive cam and some triples your torque numbers will climb fast as well as your tach and speedo. Don't let the dyno numbers fool you at all.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Correct, do not chase numbers

Chase drivability. Peak HP numbers are only really good for bragging to your buddies. Driveable HP is what you are after. Big fat meaty midrange will make you smile far more often than making peak HP at 6800 rpm.

[CoastGuardZ]

Got swamped at work Friday and totally spaced on calling Dave... it hit me later that night... so I'll probably be getting ahold of them in the first few days of this week. I've decided that I am going the Mallory route. There are a lot of satisfied people out there with it and it's the price isn't that far off from a rebuilt Z dizzy with pertronix or rebuilt ZX with a new ignition module.

Like I mentioned earlier, I've discussed what I was looking for out of an engine with Dave a number of years back and he agreed, at that time, that the 2.7 would fit the bill. Well actually he said the L28 would be easier/cheaper... but I wanted the original engine and I have to move too often to tote a second engine around. Notice I haven't mentioned any specific HP number. The number that came up before on the 2.7L with SU's was 225-ish, triples will most likely be higher. I don't have a particular number that "I need" to have. Driveability... absolutely. Power... YES. Bragging rights... sure. I expect final weight with stereo, additional electrics, a/c and driver to be around 2600lbs... should provide plenty of grins at all RPM's

[CoastGuardZ]

So here I am 2 months later... I ordered and received the Mallory and two new ballast resistors and still have yet to install them. Still haven't called Dave either. Even worse, earlier this week I was rediculously close to selling the Z and getting a 70-72 Skyline KGC10! I called the guys up at JDM Legends and had a 20 min conversation with them about the process and they were even interested in buying my Z. But, last night around 11pm I decided against it and to keep the Z and move forward with resto-mod. I've gone back to an original idea I had back before I even found my car of creating a Z432-ish look alike. Flares, fender mirrors etc etc. I'll let y'all know the progress with the dizzy soon since I've received a new boost of enthusiasm.

Oh yeah... the Skyline is still in the ultimate plan... I'm just going to start playing the lottery to get it