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Advice needed on car value and sale-8/1971 65k miles


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I am trying to help out a client of mine that I did some partial restoration for. He is selling his 8/71 240z because he doesn't have time to finish or enjoy his car. This is a California/Texas 98% rust free car. When he brought it to me it had been sitting for 18 years unregistered. He would turn the motor over periodically, but it was just sitting in storage and at his home under a car port for a long time.

When he brought to me it needed help, but was still very nice rust free car. It had a lot of dings from being at a home with 8 kids and being a 40 year old car. He wanted me to get it running and looking nice so he could enjoy it. I put a lot of time and money into this car, and here's a list to give you an idea;

Removed all of the suspension and replaced all rubber with urethane. All the suspension components were sandblasted and powder coated Matte black.

New KYB shocks, ball joints and spindle bolts.

Gas tank was removed and por-15 inside and out. Fuel lines flushed.

Engine was tuned and SU's rebuilt. New Intake/exhaust gasket installed while repairing broken exhasut stud.

Pertronix installed to remove points, new wires, plugs, coil, airfilter, fuel filter. The engine bay is very original with no mods.

The only rust repair was on the dog legs, they were removed and replaced with new panels. They weren't too bad and the rockers were solid.

The rear valence was damaged and it was also replaced. There was no rust, just too many dents to fix.

Undercoating was applied to all wheel wells. The underside was so clean I was able to just scrub it down with soap and water. I don't remember any damage to the underside frame rails and the tension rod boxes.

The car went on to a body shop that completely stripped the original paint and painted it the factory blue.He had purchased some nice bumpers(original) , but I haven't seen them.

The interior was intact and only had wear from age. I believe the door panels were in very nice shape and no damage anywhere with one crack on the dash. This car was equipped with A/C and had the control rheostat on the console and the evaporator under the dash. The original carpet was shot, but all the vinyl was in great shape. I believe it had the original radio.

In the glove box I discovered the original sales card from the dealer and the original Datsun service credit-card. It also had the instructions for the ARA A/C unit, plus some other neat stuff showing the car spent iit's life in CA and TX.

Tires were used but very servicable mounted on PS aluminum mags-period correct.

I know pictures would make this post more useful and they will be coming. I am waiting for more pics from the owner.

Another plus for this car is that it is located in southern Indiana. It is very hard to find a car this solid in this part of the country, which I think would be an asset as far as selling.

Lastly, on a personal note, Jim is a great guy. He is selling this car to raise money for a school he is starting for special- needs kids.

Based on what I have posted here(pictures coming), where in the price range should this car be with only 65k miles and all this work . I really want to help him get the most for this car.


This is just some of the pics I have. I have a lot of before and after so someone will know what they are getting. It is probably one of the most solid cars in this part of the country-which would save a midwest buyer shipping!

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As pictured - what you have there is a nice, but yet unfinished project. What is said to be a solid car with a new paint job, and suspension rebuild.

Kind of a blank canvas... Street Mod it? Do an actual Restore To Stock? Refresh it without worrying about period correct cosmetics etc?

IF - BIG IF because there is no information given about the type or quality of the job - IF the paint and body work are first class {cost $6,500.00 or more} - as it sits now missing parts and all - - - $10K to $12K. Depending on what the undercarriage looks like...{it wasn't stripped and refinished}.

FWIW,

Carl B.

I realize it is a blank canvas 'as pictured', but for the sale it will be 99% complete. The pics are fresh out of paint with nothing much put back on. I would consider the paint and body excellent, quality paint products(dupont base coat/clear coat), but the paint didn't make it into the engine compartment. If there would be a negative to this car it would be the looks of the engine compartment. The block seriously needs some paint and for some folks it might be a let down after seeing such a pretty exterior. I would recommend painting the engine if it would make that much of difference in value, but again it would be fresh paint on a non-rebuilt motor.

Also, I believe the mileage is not 65K, but 85K. The speedo needo blocked the owners view when he looked for me.

As pictured - what you have there is a nice, but yet unfinished project. What is said to be a solid car with a new paint job, and suspension rebuild.

Kind of a blank canvas... Street Mod it? Do an actual Restore To Stock? Refresh it without worrying about period correct cosmetics etc?

IF - BIG IF because there is no information given about the type or quality of the job - IF the paint and body work are first class {cost $6,500.00 or more} - as it sits now missing parts and all - - - $10K to $12K. Depending on what the undercarriage looks like...{it wasn't stripped and refinished}.

FWIW,

Carl B.

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  • 2 weeks later...
$14K to $16K as long as the paint and body work are still without flaws/damage... and as long as the engine compartment is very presentable etc.

Waiting to see the pictures..

FWIW,

Carl B.

Carl, what you consider presentable?

It looks like I will be helping Jim sell this car. I will be bringing it back to my house to detail out and finish out as much as possible.

As far as the engine compartment, the paint on the block is pretty bad, but not sure if it is worth it $$ to pull the motor to paint everything up. Not sure what the perspective of a buyer would be when seeing a painted engine that has NOT been rebuilt. Not much money involved in painting the engine, just a lot of labor.I guess my point here is, I don't want to present the engine in a way that people think I am putting lipstick on a pig. I guess it will all depend on the buyers intention, like you said Carl-in the blank canvas the buyer might not care about the engine appearance.

The owner said there might be a possible throw-out bearing noise, so I might want to pull the motor anyway to fix this issue-then painting the engine will be easy .

  • 4 months later...

Getting closer to putting this car on the market. I have refinished the interior with new carpet and refurbished seats.The seats are actually 73 retractables, but I think it's a tasteful upgrade. The interior is very complete from seat belt hooks to original Hitachi radio that works. The exterior is shaping up too, still working out something for a complete rear bumper to match the euro-type front bumper. I pulled the motor and replaced the clutch and at the same time painted the motor so it is very presentable and complete(need to take pics) I have been driving it around and must say that this is a driver. with basically all new suspension and tires, it is a dream to drive . Very quiet except for the noisy A-box trans. With all new weatherstripping there is no wind noise and the car has no squeaks or rattles to be heard.

Yet to do is buffing out paint and installing emblems. I think the heater valve might be shot, there wasn't much heat the other day coming from the vents. Not a biggy, I should figure anything 40+ years old might not work.

Some pics

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While it is up on stands - get good pictures of the floorboards and frame rails - as well as the entire undercarriage. Keep it as close to original or at least Stock as possilbe. It will sell faster and for more money that way today. Regardless of the actual mileage, or condition of the engine - most buyers for a car like this want the engine compartment to look as close to original as possible. So a well detailed engine with block painted etc will be a big plus when selling. Depends on local demand - but when finished $16K to $18 would be a bargain for the buyer. {if everything is done right}. I also agree with the full dash cap.. cracked dashes are just ugly...and turn buyers off

FWIW,

Carl B.

Wouldn't this be considered a 72? 8/71 production

No - a very late 71 Model Year. It has the "A" type tranny and center console.Some were produced into 09/71. 72 Model year started production in in 09/71 with VIN's starting at 46001

FWIW,

Carl B.

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